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    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    You will need to de-pin it, look at the front of the connector, I *think* it has a small white plastic piece that you can remove and have access to de-pin.

    I might be thinking of an ambient air temp sensor though.But take a look at it, it should be relatively easy to de-pin.
    It does, so after removing the white portion, is de-pinning a matter of just pulling the terminals out? I have a terminal tool, but, I never like doing this kind of thing. Ordered the rubber boot anyhow, b/c now this is bothering my; why no boot on this connector ??!!

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      Originally posted by PSUEng View Post

      It does, so after removing the white portion, is de-pinning a matter of just pulling the terminals out? I have a terminal tool, but, I never like doing this kind of thing. Ordered the rubber boot anyhow, b/c now this is bothering my; why no boot on this connector ??!!
      So with the white portion out of the way you should be able to depress the little tabs that hold the pins in place. A 45° pick should work well.

      Here is a connector from a different car but might be similar, your looking to depress these tabs and then simply pull the wire/Pin out from the back of the connector itself.

      Click image for larger version

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        Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

        Tilting up is a feature when you push the sunroof button forward when it's already closed. Click backwards once to return and again to open normally.
        sorry, I should have made my question a little more clear as I am aware of the tilt function.

        I'm talking about this:
        Click image for larger version

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        "your BMW has how many miles!?"

        2003 (2/03) M3 coupe Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ RS One 450/550 - Ground Control Street - SDW RTAB - TMS Street ARCA - Redish V2 - TMS solid subframe bushings - Volk Racing G2 18x9.5 - StopTech ST40 355 (coming soon) - Beisan Systems VANOS parts - WPC OE rod bearings - Karbonius CSL airbox - Kassel MSS54HP DME - Kassel MAP sensor - Euro headers and Section 1 - SuperSprint Sport - Recaro Speed - Schroth Rallye 4 QF - AS 30% SSK

        build/journal
        ig: @zzyzx85

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          Tilt is push the button in (towards the sky) , not forward.

          Roof in question is the same as mine. Pretty sure the gap you're worried about will "close up" when you "untilt it"

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          Last edited by Shonky; 04-19-2023, 01:44 AM.

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            Replacing my power steering hoses, and the high pressure line is the last one I guess I'll do since I've got it all torn apart. FCP lists REIN brand as OE, l$100 less than Gen BMW. What say the brain trust here--REIN, or Gen BMW?

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              Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
              Replacing my power steering hoses, and the high pressure line is the last one I guess I'll do since I've got it all torn apart. FCP lists REIN brand as OE, l$100 less than Gen BMW. What say the brain trust here--REIN, or Gen BMW?
              Genuine since I remember heinzboehmer mentioning that the Rein had some weird issue.

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                Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
                Sunroof question: is this normal when the panel is tilted up? I noticed it could go higher but it only goes to there.
                Click image for larger version

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                This is what mine looks like when tilted up.

                I think it is similar to yours. Should be OK I guess.




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                2004 Mystic Blue M3 | 6-speed | Coupe
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                  So in the course of reinstalling my subframe, I messed up the order of operations and twisted up my parking brake cables. I bought replacements (dorman if it matters) since I didn't want to trust the bent / twisted cables.

                  After routing the cables back through the subframe, and back into the car, I dont have any threads on the end of the cable showing in the handle. Even if I push the wheel side of the cable, I can't get any threads to get a nut started.
                  Is there some trick I'm missing? Maybe something is misaligned or I need to take center console out to fiddle with cables more?

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by mscott7426 View Post
                    So in the course of reinstalling my subframe, I messed up the order of operations and twisted up my parking brake cables. I bought replacements (dorman if it matters) since I didn't want to trust the bent / twisted cables.

                    After routing the cables back through the subframe, and back into the car, I dont have any threads on the end of the cable showing in the handle. Even if I push the wheel side of the cable, I can't get any threads to get a nut started.
                    Is there some trick I'm missing? Maybe something is misaligned or I need to take center console out to fiddle with cables more?
                    Did the length match the original cables?

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                      Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
                      Replacing my power steering hoses, and the high pressure line is the last one I guess I'll do since I've got it all torn apart. FCP lists REIN brand as OE, l$100 less than Gen BMW. What say the brain trust here--REIN, or Gen BMW?
                      Yep, get the genuine ones: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...574#post161574
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

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                        Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                        Did the length match the original cables?
                        The passenger one looked to be about the same, the driver side one I couldn't really tell as i had to cut it up to remove it.

                        Comment


                          Shonky HanSooloo thanks for confirming it's normal to have that space. Been wondering about that ever since I got the car over 5 years ago. I forgot about it until I opened the sunroof again the other week to enjoy the warmer weather.
                          "your BMW has how many miles!?"

                          2003 (2/03) M3 coupe Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ RS One 450/550 - Ground Control Street - SDW RTAB - TMS Street ARCA - Redish V2 - TMS solid subframe bushings - Volk Racing G2 18x9.5 - StopTech ST40 355 (coming soon) - Beisan Systems VANOS parts - WPC OE rod bearings - Karbonius CSL airbox - Kassel MSS54HP DME - Kassel MAP sensor - Euro headers and Section 1 - SuperSprint Sport - Recaro Speed - Schroth Rallye 4 QF - AS 30% SSK

                          build/journal
                          ig: @zzyzx85

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                            Originally posted by mscott7426 View Post

                            The passenger one looked to be about the same, the driver side one I couldn't really tell as i had to cut it up to remove it.
                            Might sound dumb but try raising and lowering the handbrake, it gets caught went inserted and doesnt go all the way in. You could also try undoing the handbrake to see if you can get the nut started. Good luck


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                              Originally posted by dl.m3 View Post

                              Might sound dumb but try raising and lowering the handbrake, it gets caught went inserted and doesnt go all the way in. You could also try undoing the handbrake to see if you can get the nut started. Good luck


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              Thanks all. I did have a helper prior to my asking and did try that a couple times for the driver's side. It didn't pop enough to get the nut started but i was able to grab it with some knipex pliers and pull it enough to get the nut started.

                              For the Dorman passenger side parking brake cable I wasn't able to finagle it enough, but I hadn't cut the OE line so I tried it. went in super easy.

                              I'd recommend avoiding Dorman for this part. Amazon had them and could get them to me next day. Of course after all the futzing around with them, I don't think I saved any time vs Febi lines from FCP.

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                                How do you remove the badge on the fender grille? FCP has the emblem for $64 or I can buy the one with the supporting plate for $52. Does that mean I can pop out the emblem without removing the entire grille? I can not figure out why the one with less parts is more expensive.

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