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    Originally posted by DropTopKingM3 View Post
    I just had my vanos redone with Beisan upgrades. The break in period per Beisan website is 200 city miles. How many highway miles is 200 city? I’ve driven 225 miles so far with about maybe half city and heavy traffic miles. Rod bearings were replace at the same time as the vanos.

    thanks in advance.
    I think he says city miles because your revs and throttle position will be varying a lot more, allowing those vanos pistons to move up and down the full bore frequently. If you only drive highway, I’d probably be changing gears a lot and such.

    Comment


      Originally posted by DropTopKingM3 View Post
      I just had my vanos redone with Beisan upgrades. The break in period per Beisan website is 200 city miles. How many highway miles is 200 city? I’ve driven 225 miles so far with about maybe half city and heavy traffic miles. Rod bearings were replace at the same time as the vanos.

      thanks in advance.
      I don't think there's really any break-in period... Just drive it normal

      Comment


        It doesn't cost anything to not drive like an idiot for a little bit when getting serious work done though I wouldn't consider vanos stuff like that.
        2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

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          Is there a list somewhere of parts that you really want to go with Genuine BMW for? I know about the water pump and valve cover gasket, but generally if it says OE on FCPEuro is that good enough?

          Comment


            Absolutely. We go with Genuine BMW because there is no OE(S) option. If there is, like Mahle oil filter, I always choose it over genuine bmw.
            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
            More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

            Comment


              Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
              Absolutely. We go with Genuine BMW because there is no OE(S) option. If there is, like Mahle oil filter, I always choose it over genuine bmw.
              Right, that’s what I’ve done for nearly everything. But FCP lists Elring as OE for the valve cover gasket, and I’ve heard multiple people talk about how they always leak and that you should just get the genuine bmw part. So I was wondering if there were other examples of that where you should just get that part instead of OE.

              Comment


                Originally posted by DoubleSidedTape View Post

                Right, that’s what I’ve done for nearly everything. But FCP lists Elring as OE for the valve cover gasket, and I’ve heard multiple people talk about how they always leak and that you should just get the genuine bmw part. So I was wondering if there were other examples of that where you should just get that part instead of OE.
                I wonder if FCP is occasionally wrong about what's OE. For one of the accessory belts for my car, their "OE" option's nominal length is part of the product name and different from BMW's spec. The difference was insignificant as I understand (2 mm out of >1k) but it did give me pause.

                I go Genuine BMW for safety-critical stuff, and for things that suck to replace. For everything else, I go OE where possible.
                2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                2012 Mazda5 6MT
                Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

                Comment


                  I haven't seen FCP be wrong yet, but if it does list Elring as the OE maker of the valve gasket, then I think that is wrong. I'm not sure we know who the OEM really is.

                  That said, I think the original equipment, sold under the manufacturer's brand instead of BMW, is supposed to be listed as OES (original equip supplier).

                  I don't what the difference would be between OE and OES, and I don't know why FCP would use both terms.

                  Genuine BMW - the original part made by another OEM or BMW, but sold as "BMW". This highest quality level
                  OE(S) - the original part made by the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) and sold under their brand name (often has the BMW stamp ground off) - also the highest quality level (same part as "genuine")
                  OEM - a part made by a manufacturer that does make parts for the car, but not necessarily the part in question. - High quality, but not highest, case by case.
                  DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                  /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                  More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                  Comment


                    This is what it shows for the e46 m3:
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Interestingly, I replaced the VCG on my x5 this week, using Genuine BMW parts. The gaskets are stamped on the edge with MAHLE next to the BMW logo. FCP lists Corteco as OE (but back ordered) and nothing from MAHLE.

                    Comment


                      I wouldn’t blindly trust what fcp labels as oe(s) on their site. I would only use what I know to be in fact oe. Do your due diligence.

                      On anothe topic, I hope I’m wrong but it appears valeo has discontinued the 120amp alternator for our cars.
                      2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

                      Comment


                        I recently bought the corteco vcg for my car from FCP. It's definitely different than stock and doesn't fit the same. In front you can see it is a little wavy and doesn't perfectly match the contour of the valve cover. That said it seals just fine.

                        Comment


                          Will a one piece driveshaft for manual trans fit the same for SMG?

                          Comment


                            My car did some dumb ass shit today. I put the key in and everything was normal for like one second, then before I could crank it everything shut off as if the battery were dead and there was no key. Only the battery is most definitely not dead. The key would not do anything, no crank, no clicking, nothing. Tried for like 30 seconds, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they seemed fine, and then got back in and put the key back in... Now, everything back to normal, as if nothing had happened. My clocks are both reset like they would be after disconnecting the battery. I'm pretty confused, no moisture anywhere it shouldn't be, no bad fuses. My friend said it might be the key itself going bad?
                            http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                            '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                            '01 M3, Imola/black

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
                              My car did some dumb ass shit today. I put the key in and everything was normal for like one second, then before I could crank it everything shut off as if the battery were dead and there was no key. Only the battery is most definitely not dead. The key would not do anything, no crank, no clicking, nothing. Tried for like 30 seconds, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they seemed fine, and then got back in and put the key back in... Now, everything back to normal, as if nothing had happened. My clocks are both reset like they would be after disconnecting the battery. I'm pretty confused, no moisture anywhere it shouldn't be, no bad fuses. My friend said it might be the key itself going bad?
                              Sounds like some fuse or relay on the way out... or a CPS on the way out... but the CPS doesn't explain the momentary battery disconnect the way a failing fuse or relay might. That's about all I can think of. And a fuse or starter relay is all I'd want to invest in it at this point based upon what you've described.

                              maw
                              Last edited by maw1124; 10-26-2021, 11:10 AM.

                              Comment


                                Hey guys, Im looking to switch up my license plate and interior trunk light bulbs. Does anyone know the mm size? Some say 36mm but Im seeing different sizes all over.

                                Thanks.

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