Originally posted by DropTopKingM3
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Originally posted by DropTopKingM3 View PostI just had my vanos redone with Beisan upgrades. The break in period per Beisan website is 200 city miles. How many highway miles is 200 city? I’ve driven 225 miles so far with about maybe half city and heavy traffic miles. Rod bearings were replace at the same time as the vanos.
thanks in advance.
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It doesn't cost anything to not drive like an idiot for a little bit when getting serious work done though I wouldn't consider vanos stuff like that.2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO
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Absolutely. We go with Genuine BMW because there is no OE(S) option. If there is, like Mahle oil filter, I always choose it over genuine bmw.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Originally posted by Tbonem3 View PostAbsolutely. We go with Genuine BMW because there is no OE(S) option. If there is, like Mahle oil filter, I always choose it over genuine bmw.
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Originally posted by DoubleSidedTape View Post
Right, that’s what I’ve done for nearly everything. But FCP lists Elring as OE for the valve cover gasket, and I’ve heard multiple people talk about how they always leak and that you should just get the genuine bmw part. So I was wondering if there were other examples of that where you should just get that part instead of OE.
I go Genuine BMW for safety-critical stuff, and for things that suck to replace. For everything else, I go OE where possible.2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL
2012 Mazda5 6MT
Koni Special Active, Volvo parts
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I haven't seen FCP be wrong yet, but if it does list Elring as the OE maker of the valve gasket, then I think that is wrong. I'm not sure we know who the OEM really is.
That said, I think the original equipment, sold under the manufacturer's brand instead of BMW, is supposed to be listed as OES (original equip supplier).
I don't what the difference would be between OE and OES, and I don't know why FCP would use both terms.
Genuine BMW - the original part made by another OEM or BMW, but sold as "BMW". This highest quality level
OE(S) - the original part made by the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) and sold under their brand name (often has the BMW stamp ground off) - also the highest quality level (same part as "genuine")
OEM - a part made by a manufacturer that does make parts for the car, but not necessarily the part in question. - High quality, but not highest, case by case.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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I wouldn’t blindly trust what fcp labels as oe(s) on their site. I would only use what I know to be in fact oe. Do your due diligence.
On anothe topic, I hope I’m wrong but it appears valeo has discontinued the 120amp alternator for our cars.2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO
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My car did some dumb ass shit today. I put the key in and everything was normal for like one second, then before I could crank it everything shut off as if the battery were dead and there was no key. Only the battery is most definitely not dead. The key would not do anything, no crank, no clicking, nothing. Tried for like 30 seconds, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they seemed fine, and then got back in and put the key back in... Now, everything back to normal, as if nothing had happened. My clocks are both reset like they would be after disconnecting the battery. I'm pretty confused, no moisture anywhere it shouldn't be, no bad fuses. My friend said it might be the key itself going bad?
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Originally posted by Nate047 View PostMy car did some dumb ass shit today. I put the key in and everything was normal for like one second, then before I could crank it everything shut off as if the battery were dead and there was no key. Only the battery is most definitely not dead. The key would not do anything, no crank, no clicking, nothing. Tried for like 30 seconds, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they seemed fine, and then got back in and put the key back in... Now, everything back to normal, as if nothing had happened. My clocks are both reset like they would be after disconnecting the battery. I'm pretty confused, no moisture anywhere it shouldn't be, no bad fuses. My friend said it might be the key itself going bad?
mawLast edited by maw1124; 10-26-2021, 11:10 AM.
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