Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Cubieman]

Looking for INPA S/W load for Windows 7 Pro machine - I've tried some others and can't get INPA to "see" my car... Cable drivers loaded OK, etc...

Is the USB port you are attaching the cable to set to COM1 with a latency of 0? I believe the latency is 0, it should be set for whatever the lowest value you can find is.

Get into device manager in windows, plug your cable in, find USB devices and your cable, right click and choose either properties, you then click then middle most tab(I think, having trouble remembering exactly) and click the advanced button, this should get you to were you can select COM/latency.

Also, make sure to use the same USB port each time after it is setup.

[Cubieman]

Currently sitting with a dilemma. Have a 2002 AW/Cin manual car with 185k miles, of which 13k are my ownership. It’s an amazing and engaging car. Traveling a lot these days and only really have time to drive it once every 10 days with everything else. Not a perfect car either, could use some bodywork.

I also have a brand new Karb intake sitting in my basement. Debating on whether to 1) Sell the car 2) Sell the intake 3) Install the intake.

Option 3 is obviously pretty involved and likely adding another $1k in expenses (filter, install kit, DME upgrade, tune).

Whether your pay for an Alpha-N or are able to flash the freely available CSL firmware/buy a MAP sensor kit, you will spend some money, but with COVID-19's MAP setup on here it's pretty dang cheap, beyond that you could modify your existing airbox tubes as many do as opposed to buying CSL versions.

Beyond that your on the line for an air filter. The only other thing is how you want to wire everything, the Turner IAT relocation harness does make for a easy and clean install but does add to the cost. Speaking of that you also need an IAT sensor/wiring but that is cheap.


It's hard to say, you may get more $ (after recouping Karb. install expenses) with the airbox installed or you may get more just selling the car and the airbox separately, depends on the buyer. Sell the car with the intake not installed may be a happy medium again depending on the buyer.

[S3diment]

Whether your pay for an Alpha-N or are able to flash the freely available CSL firmware/buy a MAP sensor kit, you will spend some money, but with COVID-19's MAP setup on here it's pretty dang cheap, beyond that you could modify your existing airbox tubes as many do as opposed to buying CSL versions.

Beyond that your on the line for an air filter. The only other thing is how you want to wire everything, the Turner IAT relocation harness does make for a easy and clean install but does add to the cost. Speaking of that you also need an IAT sensor/wiring but that is cheap.


It's hard to say, you may get more $ (after recouping Karb. install expenses) with the airbox installed or you may get more just selling the car and the airbox separately, depends on the buyer. Sell the car with the intake not installed may be a happy medium again depending on the buyer.

Actually I already have COVID's MAP kit. I think what is remaining would be the following:

- 6x 60-80mm Band Hose Clamp (9mm)
- 6x 50-70mm Band Hose Clamp (9mm)
- CSL Air Filter
- Kassel MSS54HP CSL Conversion
- IAT Relocation Kit ($119.90)
- CSL IAT Sensor ($37.43)

[Cubieman]

Actually I already have COVID's MAP kit. I think what is remaining would be the following:

- 6x 60-80mm Band Hose Clamp (9mm)
- 6x 50-70mm Band Hose Clamp (9mm)
- CSL Air Filter
- Kassel MSS54HP CSL Conversion
- IAT Relocation Kit ($119.90)
- CSL IAT Sensor ($37.43)

Re-use the TB side clamps and flash CSL for free if able, I wanted a separate DME w/CSL sw from Kassel and that was quite expensive. I've got a Tuner IAT deal I may sell, I originally bought the one w/MAF as I didn't know about the other version.

[S3diment]

Re-use the TB side clamps and flash CSL for free if able, I wanted a separate DME w/CSL sw from Kassel and that was quite expensive. I've got a Tuner IAT deal I may sell, I originally bought the one w/MAF as I didn't know about the other version.

I mistyped above. I don't need the Kassel CSL conversion, but I do need them to convert my DME to an HP one. As I understand it, the non-HP version doesn't have the hardware/memory to handle the MAP sensor.

[SQ13]

Edit: Figured it out i think

Any audio experts able to help me figure out what’s going on here with these aftermarket speakers that came with the door cards I just got? They’re not hooked up to any OE plugs, so did someone give up halfway thru the install? Thinking about just replacing them with OE HK speakers. Thanks.

[Tbonem3]

Those are passive cross overs and they're feeding just the woofer & the 1" tweeter. Factory 2" and wiring bypassed. I can't tell if they are running their own wire for the main input or if they borrowed the factory woofer wiring. If they ran all their own wire, it would be visible at the door electrical boot, only place to feed it.

[NealfromNZ]

Edit: Figured it out i think

Any audio experts able to help me figure out what’s going on here with these aftermarket speakers that came with the door cards I just got? They’re not hooked up to any OE plugs, so did someone give up halfway thru the install? Thinking about just replacing them with OE HK speakers. Thanks.

Those JL two way components are a good upgrade over HK speakers. However, they really need a full range amp to drive them. Since it’s a part way install it would pay to check what amplifier has been left in the m3. Would pay to check behind left hand trunk liner to confirm if factory or aftermarket amp is sitting there.

If aftermarket run with the JLs and complete the install. If the factory HK unit is there, connect the mid range connector back and daisy chain the hk tweeter of the mid. Make sure the tweeter still has the capacitor across it to avoid the mid range music present from damaging the tweeter.

Connect the JL audio mid bass the the hk woofer connector. Whilst it might not present the same ohm rating as the hk mid bass it will probably sound better than a hk woofer.

[01M3Fan]

How do I edit "my garage" on my profile??

[SQ13]

Those JL two way components are a good upgrade over HK speakers. However, they really need a full range amp to drive them. Since it’s a part way install it would pay to check what amplifier has been left in the m3. Would pay to check behind left hand trunk liner to confirm if factory or aftermarket amp is sitting there.

If aftermarket run with the JLs and complete the install. If the factory HK unit is there, connect the mid range connector back and daisy chain the hk tweeter of the mid. Make sure the tweeter still has the capacitor across it to avoid the mid range music present from damaging the tweeter.

Connect the JL audio mid bass the the hk woofer connector. Whilst it might not present the same ohm rating as the hk mid bass it will probably sound better than a hk woofer.

Thanks for the info! I’ll ask the owner which amp he had. If HK, I’ll probably just run the HK speakers, since it sounds like trying to run these JL speakers will require a lot of work.

[fourmula1]

Looking at pully kits for my 2003 M3 race/track car. Are there any adverse effects to under driving the water pump and power steering? Will I notice a difference in feel on the steering wheel? Will I notice a change in water/engine temperatures?

Thank you

[IamFODI]

How do I edit "my garage" on my profile??

Do you mean your forum signature? The thing that appears under your posts?

[heinzboehmer]

Looking at pully kits for my 2003 M3 race/track car. Are there any adverse effects to under driving the water pump and power steering? Will I notice a difference in feel on the steering wheel? Will I notice a change in water/engine temperatures?

Thank you

No to the steering feel. Under driving the pump means there's less volume of fluid being pumped per unit time. Does not affect the ouput pressure (which would affect feel), as the pump has a pressure regulator on the output. Only issue you can run into is cavitation when the engine rpm is low and the flow volume demand from the pump is high. So basically just don't sit at idle turning your wheel back and forth quickly and you'll be fine.

Under driving the water pump works similar (less volume of fluid per unit time), which means there's less flow through the radiator and everywhere else. With less flow comes higher contact times and thus more heat transfer. In theory, this would mean the coolant in the block has a chance to get hotter and the coolant in the radiator has a chance to get cooler. In practice, I haven't seen it make a difference though, both on and off the track. Coolant temp is rock solid in the middle always. Maybe the thermostat opens a bit sooner (time wise not temp wise) and that's why I don't notice a difference.

[fourmula1]

Thank you.

[01M3Fan]

Do you mean your forum signature? The thing that appears under your posts?

I'd like to make a couple of updates:

One is when you click on my avatar/userid it comes up with details - mine shows this: "Original owner '01 M3 - mod list below. DD, '16 F80 M3 with Dinan S2 package, 18", slick top, 6 MT."

I would like to update, but I can't figure out how..

Second is how do I add the details under my replies like yours "2008 M3 Sedan 6MT, slicktop, no iDrive, 18s Öhlins coilovers by 3DM Motorsport"

Thx!