Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Shonky]

Hood switch is all or nothing. It won't go into gear if hood is open though.

14.1V is fine. Maybe bad battery? Either way once running alternator is doing pretty much all of the work so electrical shouldn't be an issue from there.

[SUPREM3///]

Hood switch is all or nothing. It won't go into gear if hood is open though.

14.1V is fine. Maybe bad battery? Either way once running alternator is doing pretty much all of the work so electrical shouldn't be an issue from there.

Okay, good to know that then about the hood sensor, it hasn't been clear to me what exactly to expect and it seems to be suggested in every thread. The battery that drained to 4.5v was brand new, albeit just an everlast i grabbed quickly from a random walmart, so I charged the original battery fully today and that's what I have in the car. That 4.5v seems really low, right? Makes me believe there's a draw but the car has also sat for maybe a week or more and the temps have been pretty low here so I'm not sure how strongly to consider that. My last e46 was a ZHP and my daily. I've seen a few posts claiming these cars will drain if you don't drive them but no experience myself.

I was also wondering if since the car drained completely flat once or twice if that was the reason for the SMG issues, it seems to be pretty sensitive to voltage from what I've read recently but I'm pretty convinced I have an issue at this point. Just happened pretty abruptly, I was dealing with getting my MAP sensor wired up properly for a bit and as soon as I did, this happened.

Which I should also mention, I plan on checking SMG wiring harness and inspect the fluid level looking for kinks/leaks on the reservoir line tomorrow. Seems like a possibility after installing the Karbonius.

[Shonky]

4.5V will permanently damage a battery even once. Do it multiple times and it will be useless. Disconnect the battery negative terminal overnight until you figure out what's going on. Anything less than about 9-10V you're going to struggle to start it without a jump.

Mine will happily sit for weeks or even a month or two at normal temps (20-30C) and then crank just fine. Sleep current draw should be less than 40mA. Mine is measured at 19mA completely stock except for a BlueBus.

E46s will give some strange errors with low voltage but again I don't think that's your problem. Worst case disconnect battery to reset and you might have some lingering codes to clear. 4.5V is actually probably close enough to disconnecting the battery in terms of module power cycles.

Can you check the SMG status with INPA whilst running. There's a couple of pages of stats and adaptations you can see. You can also run it through all the gears with vehicle off and see if there's something there.

48 looks to be couldn't select gear. That could be lotsa things.

Maybe start a dedicated thread?

[SUPREM3///]

4.5V will permanently damage a battery even once. Do it multiple times and it will be useless. Disconnect the battery negative terminal overnight until you figure out what's going on. Anything less than about 9-10V you're going to struggle to start it without a jump.

Mine will happily sit for weeks or even a month or two at normal temps (20-30C) and then crank just fine. Sleep current draw should be less than 40mA. Mine is measured at 19mA completely stock except for a BlueBus.

E46s will give some strange errors with low voltage but again I don't think that's your problem. Worst case disconnect battery to reset and you might have some lingering codes to clear. 4.5V is actually probably close enough to disconnecting the battery in terms of module power cycles.

Can you check the SMG status with INPA whilst running. There's a couple of pages of stats and adaptations you can see. You can also run it through all the gears with vehicle off and see if there's something there.

48 looks to be couldn't select gear. That could be lotsa things.

Maybe start a dedicated thread?

Battery was at 12v flat his morning, guess I'll start to track down any drain. Good call on disconnecting, I'll start doing that in the meantime and probably going to just order a new FSR so I have one ready to go in. I had the battery and salmon relay out of the car for most of the day yesterday to let it reset.

Hooked up the CTEK and reset the clutch curve with my Schwaben tool. Car fired up just fine, connected it to INPA - which was showing 13.8v running but my multimeter (directly at the terminals) showed 14.2v - what are your thoughts on that btw? Just curious if the discrepancy should mean anything or not since both numbers are okay.

No SMG codes and shifted well on a short drive. Pump pressure was started around 48 and was settling low/mid 50s I'd say. Clutch position started at 224 (after reset) and after the drive was 631. I'm going to let it sit for a bit then take it out again in which I'll get some better INPA values. Hoping a clutch reset and steady voltage was all it needed.

[Slideways]

Battery was at 12v flat his morning, guess I'll start to track down any drain. Good call on disconnecting, I'll start doing that in the meantime and probably going to just order a new FSR so I have one ready to go in. I had the battery and salmon relay out of the car for most of the day yesterday to let it reset.

Hooked up the CTEK and reset the clutch curve with my Schwaben tool. Car fired up just fine, connected it to INPA - which was showing 13.8v running but my multimeter (directly at the terminals) showed 14.2v - what are your thoughts on that btw? Just curious if the discrepancy should mean anything or not since both numbers are okay.

No SMG codes and shifted well on a short drive. Pump pressure was started around 48 and was settling low/mid 50s I'd say. Clutch position started at 224 (after reset) and after the drive was 631. I'm going to let it sit for a bit then take it out again in which I'll get some better INPA values. Hoping a clutch reset and steady voltage was all it needed.

Do you have any aftermarket audio equipment or devices?

[SUPREM3///]

Do you have any aftermarket audio equipment or devices?

Nada, just the stock NAV unit that I usually just turn off anyway.

Haven't had the car too long and just thinking of what I've touched that's electrical. I installed an airbox and wired my MAP Sensor through the MAF connector, running the MAP signal wire through the original MAF signal on the connector - moving pin 1 to pin 18 @ the DME. Seems fine to me and don't think it'd be an issue but maybe I'm wrong and I know there's a 12v in the MAF Connector. Just throwing it out there in case someone knew something I didn't.

Also just drove a few blocks to drop off something for my kid at daycare, drove fine on the way there. Shut it off while I ran inside for a second and when I started it up again it kicked into reverse and stalled. It seems to slam into reverse or if I try to put it in1st, it won't engage, although you can hear it try and neutral is flashing on the cluster. Cog light came on but I was able to get it going again and get it back in the driveway. Scanned it and it threw a 3A Gear not Retractable (Code 58) this time. Burkhart's wiki shows that as air in the system so maybe I'll run the full INPA adaptions today. Frustrating that it's throwing new codes each time though

[gaiakai]

So I bought a set of H & R coilovers used, and I’m just now finding out that I’m missing a part. Does anyone know what the little washer tube thing that goes through the bottom shock bushing is called?

[L0okitzRaj]

I think you just need to add a nice washer to the end of that. I don't think a new tube/sleeve will help.

[BigRussia]

Anyone know the length “ of the Bilstein PSS10 (B16) coilover’s rear springs? I know theyre a 60mm ID w a progressive rate of 565lb but can’t find their length anywhere. Looking to replace them with Swift 60mm ID springs to get some more ride height adjustability but need to know what length they are, dont want to take everything apart twice before I have the new Swifts.

[Slideways]

So I bought a set of H & R coilovers used, and I’m just now finding out that I’m missing a part. Does anyone know what the little washer tube thing that goes through the bottom shock bushing is called?

If you look at the pictures of a new kit, they are just standard washers that limit movement of the lower bushing. Unfortunately, the rubber bushing is molded with the sleeve and yours has failed. HR (or Bilstein since it is a Bilstein damper) might warranty that damper, but they don't usually sell a new bushing separately to press in.

There happens to be a listing for a set of used rear dampers for the HR kit - https://www.ebay.com/itm/15585387568...CABEgIMwvD_BwE

[gaiakai]

If you look at the pictures of a new kit, they are just standard washers that limit movement of the lower bushing. Unfortunately, the rubber bushing is molded with the sleeve and yours has failed. HR (or Bilstein since it is a Bilstein damper) might warranty that damper, but they don't usually sell a new bushing separately to press in.

There happens to be a listing for a set of used rear dampers for the HR kit - https://www.ebay.com/itm/15585387568...CABEgIMwvD_BwE

Good looking out, I ended up just getting a flat washer to have that press against the bushing. I’m thinking of eventually replacing it with a fender washer for more security, but this seems to be ok so far.

[bimmerfan08]

Not E46-related but related to the layout of the forum. Why is there no subforum for the E30 M3 generation? Noticed it for a while just never got around to asking.

[Cubieman]

Are other people having to now login everytime you leave the site?
I am having to do that, maybe it's just my phone.

[gaiakai]

Are other people having to now login everytime you leave the site?
I am having to do that, maybe it's just my phone.

Not I, both my phone and work laptop still keep me logged in to the site.

[Slideways]

Good looking out, I ended up just getting a flat washer to have that press against the bushing. I’m thinking of eventually replacing it with a fender washer for more security, but this seems to be ok so far.

The bushing acts like a spring and it not being attached to the sleeve anymore means that has lost its functionality. Adding a washer is not going to solve the problem, unfortunately. Also, the rear dampers need to be torqued at ride height; otherwise, the lower bushing can fail like yours has.