Originally posted by Slideways
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Originally posted by gaiakai View Post
The washer just needs to have enough surface area to cover the bushing so that the bushing doesn't slip through the bolt head. And yes the dampers were torqued at ride height prior to this failing, which is why I was so confused.
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Originally posted by Slideways View Post
Rubber bushings are not designed like a poly bushing with a sleeve. Even with the washer, the sleeve is still detached from the rubber in the bushing. Since you bought them used, the previous owner might not have torqued them at ride height. The rubber bushings also do wear over time.
The torque at ride height thing on this forum is weird. First sway bar endlinks, now shock bushings? Do you torque motor mounts at ride height? Exhaust hangers?
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Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
Shock bushings see no rotational forces. It does not need to be torqued at ride height.
The torque at ride height thing on this forum is weird. First sway bar endlinks, now shock bushings? Do you torque motor mounts at ride height? Exhaust hangers?
What "normal position" means:
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Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
Shock bushings see no rotational forces. It does not need to be torqued at ride height.
The torque at ride height thing on this forum is weird. First sway bar endlinks, now shock bushings? Do you torque motor mounts at ride height? Exhaust hangers?
Or follow the TIS specs per manufacturer recommendations
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Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostI was wrong then. I don't understand why though.
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I understand why bushings like RTAB and inner upper/lower control arms needs to be tightened at ride height. But the amount of rubber and location of the lower shock attachment point is not going to impart any meaningful force on the suspension or be rotated enough during suspension travel to tear the rubber.
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Does anyone know a shop (other than Troy Jeup) that can machine AluSil blocks, S85 blocks for instance?2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
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I’m having an annoying time getting the two front mounting bolts for the rear subframe. I believe these are 31mm(?) and of course no one has that size of anything in stock. Tried using channel locks, as the bolts come out they get progressively tighter to the point where the pliers just slip. I wonder if the previous owner in his infinite wisdom put loctite on these. I ordered a deep 31mm socket and I think I’m going to go caveman and just cut the bolt off and use the socket and a blowtorch. Unless you guys can instruct me on the correct method. I need these off asap so I can keep going on the project.
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Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostI was wrong then. I don't understand why though.
Sway bar end links are the same, they are technically supposed to be assembled onto the sway bar with something like turpentine (similar to an E36 front LCA bushing). Once the turpentine dries it "sticks" the bushing to the sway bar in a fixed location. If you don't do that then the bushing can twist on the sway bar and eventually wear itself out.
Originally posted by Cubieman View PostDoes anyone know a shop (other than Troy Jeup) that can machine AluSil blocks, S85 blocks for instance?
Might try Peter Partee with Partee Racing.
Originally posted by Nate047 View PostI’m having an annoying time getting the two front mounting bolts for the rear subframe. I believe these are 31mm(?) and of course no one has that size of anything in stock. Tried using channel locks, as the bolts come out they get progressively tighter to the point where the pliers just slip. I wonder if the previous owner in his infinite wisdom put loctite on these. I ordered a deep 31mm socket and I think I’m going to go caveman and just cut the bolt off and use the socket and a blowtorch. Unless you guys can instruct me on the correct method. I need these off asap so I can keep going on the project.'09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
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Originally posted by George Hill View PostThey might be seized or rusted up inside the chassis, you could be running into an instance where they are galling the threads on removal. Maybe try some heat and work them back and forth Cutting them flush is not a bad idea if you can replace them.
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