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    I'd be surprised if a pressure bleeder could force fluid through a good M/C seal. Wouldn't there be more pressure on those seals when the brake pedal is pressed?

    I run mine to 20psi all the time, no issues.

    Either way if you have brake fluid in the booster its likely now compromised and the internal diaphragm is living on borrowed time. BMW had an issue with oil entering the booster on N62 cars and once it did the diaphragm would eventually fail as well. We would install a check valve in the vacuum line to the engine from the booster and then stick a long zip tie into the vacuum hole on the booster. If it came back out wet the car got a booster. I'm not sure brake fluid wouldn't cause the same issue.
    '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
    Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
    Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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      Originally posted by George Hill View Post
      Either way if you have brake fluid in the booster its likely now compromised and the internal diaphragm is living on borrowed time.
      ^ Was thinking the same thing. Regardless of whether everything was fine before, I wouldn't trust it now – at least not to the level of trust I'd want from my brakes.

      Thankfully it should fail relatively gracefully (AFAIK – someone please correct me if I'm wrong). But if it were me, I'd 100% start planning for a booster replacement.
      2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
      Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

      2012 Mazda5 6MT
      Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

      Comment


        Well that answers my follow up question. I guess for now I'll try to siphon out any fluid in there. Just looked at the brake booster cost and it's not cheap 😫
        2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Anthracite Impuse - SOLD

        2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Black Nappa Leather
        Karbonius | Supersprint | Cat Cams | Beisan | Fikse Wheels | Mile End Composites | AST 5200 | Hotchkis | Brembo | Recaro | Rouge SMF | RTD | Yellow Tag Rack | HTE Performance

        Comment


          Originally posted by DJAM3 View Post
          Well that answers my follow up question. I guess for now I'll try to siphon out any fluid in there. Just looked at the brake booster cost and it's not cheap 😫
          I would consider replacing the master cylinder too. If it leaked once, its likely going to leak again 😢
          '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
          Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
          Email to George@HillPerformance.com

          Comment


            When I push the clutch pedal in, engine running or off, I hear a squeak. Now, I haven't really dived into this but a little internet jockeying suggests either 1] pedal return spring or 2] slave cylinder. I'm looking for thoughts on how to proceed with troubleshooting and any consideration to be given to other components. All the clutch and trans parts are original to the car w/86k miles. I do have new pedal bushings and a spring on hand, but if I tear all that out, I'm wondering if doing the M/C at that time is only a marginal additional amount of work--and maybe even the S/C as well once bleeding is factored in. I'm just not sure of failure modes of the M/C and S/C to decide to just replace those all at once. Any insight is welcome, thanks!

            Comment


              Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
              When I push the clutch pedal in, engine running or off, I hear a squeak. Now, I haven't really dived into this but a little internet jockeying suggests either 1] pedal return spring or 2] slave cylinder. I'm looking for thoughts on how to proceed with troubleshooting and any consideration to be given to other components. All the clutch and trans parts are original to the car w/86k miles. I do have new pedal bushings and a spring on hand, but if I tear all that out, I'm wondering if doing the M/C at that time is only a marginal additional amount of work--and maybe even the S/C as well once bleeding is factored in. I'm just not sure of failure modes of the M/C and S/C to decide to just replace those all at once. Any insight is welcome, thanks!
              I have the same squeek. For what it is worth, my slave cylinder has only 24k on it, and I believe the noise has been present for quite a while. I am in for insight as well.
              Old, not obsolete.

              Comment


                Hi guys.
                Went to do my Beisan-vanos overhaul and the stud came out while removing the valve cover. What also came out was the threads. :/. I'm looking for advice for repair. I'm at work and forgot to bring the stud with me. I know that this is a M7x32 based on the parts diagram.
                Can anyone lead me to a direction for a recommended thread repair? Heli-coil? EZ-lok? I know this is a through hole, so that may be a factor? ** Also, the vanos is on the bench, so I will have no problems with metal shavings.

                Thanks for the help!

                Prime Day! Would this work? https://a.co/d/hqpZuts

                Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	221.6 KB ID:	272148
                Last edited by jdamore44; 07-16-2024, 09:18 AM.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
                  When I push the clutch pedal in, engine running or off, I hear a squeak.
                  Originally posted by D-O View Post
                  I have the same squeek. For what it is worth, my slave cylinder has only 24k on it, and I believe the noise has been present for quite a while. I am in for insight as well.
                  Generally when I hear a squeak like that its fixed by replacing the pressure plate or TOB (clutch kit). I've personally never seen an M/C or S/C cause a squeak.
                  '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                  Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                  Email to George@HillPerformance.com

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by jdamore44 View Post
                    :/. I'm looking for advice for repair. I'm at work and forgot to bring the stud with me.​
                    IMO the only "correct" repair here is with a TimeSert

                    I have all the sizes on hand and have never had one fail. In fact I just stuck (2) into an M62tu yesterday to repair the threads for a vanos solenoid gasket. Super easy to use especially with the part off the car.

                    '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                    Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                    Email to George@HillPerformance.com

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by jdamore44 View Post
                      Hi guys.
                      Went to do my Beisan-vanos overhaul and the stud came out while removing the valve cover. What also came out was the threads. :/. I'm looking for advice for repair. I'm at work and forgot to bring the stud with me. I know that this is a M7x32 based on the parts diagram.
                      Can anyone lead me to a direction for a recommended thread repair? Heli-coil? EZ-lok? I know this is a through hole, so that may be a factor? ** Also, the vanos is on the bench, so I will have no problems with metal shavings.

                      Thanks for the help!

                      Prime Day! Would this work? https://a.co/d/hqpZuts

                      Click image for larger version Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	221.6 KB ID:	272148
                      I would to timesert if there is space for it.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by George Hill View Post

                        IMO the only "correct" repair here is with a TimeSert

                        I have all the sizes on hand and have never had one fail. In fact I just stuck (2) into an M62tu yesterday to repair the threads for a vanos solenoid gasket. Super easy to use especially with the part off the car.

                        Damn those things are spendy! I appreciate your feedback. I'll order one today!

                        Comment


                          Yes, they are expensive. but also quite effective, if anything, the repaired joint will be stronger.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by George Hill View Post



                            Generally when I hear a squeak like that its fixed by replacing the pressure plate or TOB (clutch kit). I've personally never seen an M/C or S/C cause a squeak.
                            Thanks George, I also suspected those but I don't have experience with the clutch system. Thank you!

                            Comment


                              If I do the stock to 996 caliper conversion, do I need the ZCP bracket along with the 996 conversion bracket? Or just the new conversion bracket?

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by dHam_Slow.46M View Post
                                If I do the stock to 996 caliper conversion, do I need the ZCP bracket along with the 996 conversion bracket? Or just the new conversion bracket?
                                No, only the conversion bracket is needed.

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