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    Does the radiator support from a convertible contribute to a noticeable increase in chassis stiffness?

    I've seen the two pieces, and the convertible one def looks like a structural/braced part vs the standard 3 series one where it looks simply like stamped steel.

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      Originally posted by erickhoyos View Post

      If I remember right, you have you have the key in position 2 (engine off) then hold the tps until light goes off. Press and hold again until amber light comes on then turn on the car and slowly drive and the light goes away
      Thanks. That works but if you have a red light you need to turn it off first by pressing and holding. Then you go through your procedure

      Comment


        Originally posted by Will View Post
        Does the radiator support from a convertible contribute to a noticeable increase in chassis stiffness?

        I've seen the two pieces, and the convertible one def looks like a structural/braced part vs the standard 3 series one where it looks simply like stamped steel.
        I believe the area that increases in chassis rigidity is where the rear seats are. In a coupe/sedan the rear seats fold down while in the convertible they are fixed bc of a sheet of aluminum that connects near the rear shock mounts. That’s why it’s harder to have subframe cracking issues on a vert than it would be for a hardtop car. It’s still possible to crack the subframe, albeit less common.

        Comment


          When it comes to replacing window regulators...is it a waste of money to proactively replace at first sign of rattling? Or is it worth pursuing cheaper fixes? Car has 88K miles on (AFAIK) original window regulators.
          2005 6MT TiAg | 1:47.01 @ Laguna Seca
          ..........................| 1:58.93 @ Sonoma

          Comment


            Originally posted by erickhoyos View Post

            I believe the area that increases in chassis rigidity is where the rear seats are. In a coupe/sedan the rear seats fold down while in the convertible they are fixed bc of a sheet of aluminum that connects near the rear shock mounts. That’s why it’s harder to have subframe cracking issues on a vert than it would be for a hardtop car. It’s still possible to crack the subframe, albeit less common.
            The subframe isn't the issue in the back, it's the trunk floor. Lots of mis-information and labeling out there.

            Comment


              I'm getting a Vincebar installed and doing a diff refresh while it's dropped. I'm replacing the cover (for the OE bushings) + torx bolts, cover gasket, front bushing + M14 bolt, drain bolts, input seal, output seals, o-ring, lock rings, and OE SAF XJ+FM.

              Should the eight diff cover bolts/washers (#3 and #4 below) be replaced?
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              Also, do the small and large dust covers on the output shafts (#9 and #10) need to be replaced?
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              Attached Files
              2002 M3 Coupe 6MT

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                Are this the right part number and item for a Euro Section 1 with hi-flo cats?



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                Attached Files
                2005 6MT TiAg | 1:47.01 @ Laguna Seca
                ..........................| 1:58.93 @ Sonoma

                Comment


                  Looks like it! That's hilarious. People are paying $650 for 15-20 year old ones with 100k.

                  Just checked shipping est, was $75. Plus about maybe $35 in tax? (you can still find some vendors out there that don't charge tax)
                  Last edited by Tbonem3; 06-22-2021, 01:05 PM.
                  DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                  /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                  More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by ridebikes View Post
                    Are this the right part number and item for a Euro Section 1 with hi-flo cats?



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                    The other threads I found when I search reference part #18-30-7-832-488 as the euro section 1

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by ridebikes View Post
                      Are this the right part number and item for a Euro Section 1 with hi-flo cats?



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                      Image shows the euro section 1, but that's the part number for the US section 1. Correct number for the euro section 1 is 18307832488. Those are more like $2k new.
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                        Thank you for the info!
                        2005 6MT TiAg | 1:47.01 @ Laguna Seca
                        ..........................| 1:58.93 @ Sonoma

                        Comment


                          Damn!
                          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by jdamore44 View Post

                            The subframe isn't the issue in the back, it's the trunk floor. Lots of mis-information and labeling out there.
                            Yes, just looked that up a while ago and indeed the trunk floor is dual layered I think? Thanks

                            Comment


                              Are Valeo 439317 alternators discontinued or is there a production/supply issue as a result of covid? No one has this alternator.

                              Comment


                                Why are Dinan RTABS twice the cost of other spherical bearing RTABs when construction/materials are near identical??

                                I know Dinan has reputation of being over-priced and while their double the current cost RTABS might have been justified when they were one of the first to offer a machine housing RTAB housing with a sealed BMW spherical bearing internal, that's no longer the case with the dozen or so offerings on the market sharing the above mentioned construction with perhaps one of the biggest differences between the anodized aluminum dye/color used.

                                I personally like the clear or silver colored anodized aluminum housings that Dinan uses but at twice the cost of other market equivalents, it's a tough pill to swallow unless there are other benefits to the Dinan RTABs over seemingly identical offerings someone can bring to my attention.

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                                Last edited by E46_M3_ZCP; 06-27-2021, 03:51 PM.

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