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    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    Anyone running RE trans mounts?

    I'd like to go OEM but they are $90 pop, ridiculous. The RE mounts seem like they might not incur an NVH penalty as they are neoprene and the bolt doesn't go all the way through the mounts.

    From the description they just changed the shape from and hourglass to cylindrical, although I don't doubt the rubber may still be a bit more dense.
    I love RE trans mounts. They're basically E21 mounts (but with 8mm stud for our braces whereas e21 has 10mm). No NVH, just beefier.

    Now which were you referring to going from hourglass to cylinder? RE mounts have always been cylindrical, and I doubt that BMW would change e46 bushings' shape at this point in time (unless they've been changed to fit newer models, and are backwards compatible with e46).
    Last edited by Tbonem3; 10-25-2024, 02:53 PM.
    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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      Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

      I love RE trans mounts. They're basically E21 mounts (but with 8mm stud for our braces whereas e21 has 10mm). No NVH, just beefier.

      Now which were you referring to going from hourglass to cylinder? RE mounts have always been cylindrical, and I doubt that BMW would change e46 bushings' shape at this point in time (unless they've been changed to fit newer models, and are backwards compatible with e46).
      Thanks for the info, I'll likely go with those. The stock are hourglass and RE's cylindrical from what I understood. That simple change in shape led to a bit less deflection.
      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
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        I run the RE mounts on almost everything, no issues.
        '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
        Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
        Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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          Been running into an issue recently where after the car gets hot, the throttle when I rev-match doesn't rev as freely. When the car is cold/hasn't been at temp for very long, the rev-match works as it should but after a while it feels like the throttle is almost getting stuck and maxing out around 3K. Has anyone ever ran into this issue? Is my TPS going haywire when it reaches a certain temp?

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            Anyone got recommendations for street pads for the STOPTECH ST60 and ST40 setup? Thanks.

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              Bear with me… Is there any reason why Koni yellows would not work with Ground control camber plates? Just would like to make sure before I purchase some new shocks, my car has GC plates installed.

              thanks

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                Originally posted by MotorSportThree View Post
                Bear with me… Is there any reason why Koni yellows would not work with Ground control camber plates? Just would like to make sure before I purchase some new shocks, my car has GC plates installed.

                thanks
                If your current GC plates work with the factory dampers, then the Koni yellows should be plug and play since the Konis can be installed with the factory top mounts.

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                  Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
                  Anyone got recommendations for street pads for the STOPTECH ST60 and ST40 setup? Thanks.
                  Unless you can find another factory car that uses the ST60 D1247 pad shape, you are stuck with ST Street, ST Sport or other D1247 aftermarket pad. The ST40s can use Textar 993 pads with some light machining to the backing plate.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by MotorSportThree View Post
                    Bear with me… Is there any reason why Koni yellows would not work with Ground control camber plates? Just would like to make sure before I purchase some new shocks, my car has GC plates installed.

                    thanks
                    What shocks have you now? Few, only very high end that I can think of, use 14mm. Most are 16mm like stock, bilstein, koni. The thing with plates is more about the perch size (stock, 2.25, 60mm, 2.5). Doesn't sound like you're changing springs.
                    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                      What shocks have you now? Few, only very high end that I can think of, use 14mm. Most are 16mm like stock, bilstein, koni. The thing with plates is more about the perch size (stock, 2.25, 60mm, 2.5). Doesn't sound like you're changing springs.

                      Currently have Sachs shocks. Car has H&R springs already so looking to install a shock that is more appropriate for lowering springs. Thus why considering Koni Yellows. Thanks

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                        Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                        Unless you can find another factory car that uses the ST60 D1247 pad shape, you are stuck with ST Street, ST Sport or other D1247 aftermarket pad. The ST40s can use Textar 993 pads with some light machining to the backing plate.

                        https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Kv49jgf5bnyNsg
                        Thanks bud. I'll check those out too.

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                          I hate to even make a post like this, but is there a generic door panel clip that actually holds properly and long term? I bought some on Amazon and I swear I have broken more than have held, trying to put my interior back together.

                          Click image for larger version

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                          http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                          '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                          '01 M3, Imola/black

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                            Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
                            I hate to even make a post like this, but is there a generic door panel clip that actually holds properly and long term? I bought some on Amazon and I swear I have broken more than have held, trying to put my interior back together.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_4795.jpg Views:	0 Size:	34.8 KB ID:	283357
                            How are they breaking? During install or removal? Guiding them in before pressing in the door panel will prevent crushing them.

                            FCP has them for 0.69 each from the OE supplier. 51418224781

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                              Don't buy aftermarket trim clips. The plastic is more brittle and the dimensions are just slightly off.
                              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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                                Thanks, yea they would just not quite fit, then you pound on the panel a bit and they break.
                                http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                                '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                                '01 M3, Imola/black

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