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    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?
    Officially yes, but if you put it on recently and not years ago I think they will survive reusing once for sure.
    E46 ///M3 • 12/2002 • phönix-gelb • 6MT
    E39 ///M5 • 12/1998 • avus-blau • 6MT
    E60 ///M5 • 11/2006 • saphir-schwarz • 6MT

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      Originally posted by sbay View Post
      Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?
      "Carbon X Combustion Chamber Cleaner K1+K2" is a product that cleans carbon deposits insanely well.
      It's a 2 part formula, one is the cleaner, which is like a thick shaving foam, and the other part is the neutralizer, which makes the foam turn liquid on contact.

      The stuff is strong enough to clean without any abresives, I wouldn't put scotchbrite anywhere near my cylinder walls, it is effectively still sandpaper.

      Just be cautious you can do more harm than good cleaning the combustion chamber and the top of the pistons if that means a bunch of gunk goes into the ringland area.
      Painters tape is your friend...
      E46 ///M3 • 12/2002 • phönix-gelb • 6MT
      E39 ///M5 • 12/1998 • avus-blau • 6MT
      E60 ///M5 • 11/2006 • saphir-schwarz • 6MT

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        I have a set of Schrick 280/272 with damaged lobes on exhaust cyl 3 and 6, 6 being the worst. The eroded lobes in question have minimal material shaved. It does catch the nail on 6. I guess I'm asking if they can be salvaged, is there a service where this can be done if anyone knows? These cams were silly money in Canadian slave dollars to my door and just trying to get something back from them.
        2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
        M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - Vorshlag - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/

        IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/

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          Maybe it depends on how deep as you don't want to diminish the lift and/or duration. What's been done before is weld on more material, then grind it down back to original shape.
          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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            Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
            Maybe it depends on how deep as you don't want to diminish the lift and/or duration. What's been done before is weld on more material, then grind it down back to original shape.
            At most there's maybe a mm missing from c6 lobe. Not sure how to accurately measure and portray this as the material eroded is over the circumference of the lobe where it applies contact to th rocker.
            Last edited by CrisSilberGrau; Yesterday, 02:14 PM.
            2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
            M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - Vorshlag - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/

            IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/

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              I’m currently eyeing an ‘04 E46 with 9X,XXX miles that looks be in great condition with respect to the interior and exterior. It’s currently for sale with a reputable dealer who providedthe Carfax which shows regular service throughout its life however no mention of any of the “Big 3” repairs. The sales guy would only say that he doesn’t know of any major issues before pulling out the dealer speak that “it’s one of the cleanest specs he’s seen.” As a novice to the E46 platform and used car purchases in general, my question is whether there’s a way to verify if the Big 3 have been done and if the dealer response is a potential red flag. Thanks in advance!

              Comment


                Originally posted by adr_M3 View Post
                I’m currently eyeing an ‘04 E46 with 9X,XXX miles that looks be in great condition with respect to the interior and exterior. It’s currently for sale with a reputable dealer who providedthe Carfax which shows regular service throughout its life however no mention of any of the “Big 3” repairs. The sales guy would only say that he doesn’t know of any major issues before pulling out the dealer speak that “it’s one of the cleanest specs he’s seen.” As a novice to the E46 platform and used car purchases in general, my question is whether there’s a way to verify if the Big 3 have been done and if the dealer response is a potential red flag. Thanks in advance!
                I would offer him 5-7.5k less than asking if you feel the big three are that important. IMO, Vanos is the only must as rod bearings should be serviced via blackstone report of wear that indicates it, but you can always just go with @100k. Subframe reinforcement as long as it was street driven and not tracked shouldn’t be an issue.

                everyone has various experiences, weigh the pros and cons and what risk you’re willing to accept. Each service with labor and parts is roughly 2.5K + or -

                Comment


                  Originally posted by adr_M3 View Post
                  I’m currently eyeing an ‘04 E46 with 9X,XXX miles that looks be in great condition with respect to the interior and exterior. It’s currently for sale with a reputable dealer who providedthe Carfax which shows regular service throughout its life however no mention of any of the “Big 3” repairs. The sales guy would only say that he doesn’t know of any major issues before pulling out the dealer speak that “it’s one of the cleanest specs he’s seen.” As a novice to the E46 platform and used car purchases in general, my question is whether there’s a way to verify if the Big 3 have been done and if the dealer response is a potential red flag. Thanks in advance!
                  You can put it on a rack to check if subframe reinforcements are present, easy to spot. You might persuade a BMW dealer to get you the service history based on VIN which then might tell you if the rod bearings were ever done. However, that obviously isn't foolproof as an independent could have performed the service. Bottom line, no way to check rod bearings or vanos unless you get lucky with a dealer service report.
                  3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                    Originally posted by Cronenberged View Post

                    I would offer him 5-7.5k less than asking if you feel the big three are that important. IMO, Vanos is the only must as rod bearings should be serviced via blackstone report of wear that indicates it, but you can always just go with @100k. Subframe reinforcement as long as it was street driven and not tracked shouldn’t be an issue.

                    everyone has various experiences, weigh the pros and cons and what risk you’re willing to accept. Each service with labor and parts is roughly 2.5K + or -
                    Appreciate the explanation. Are you saying that a Blackstone test can wait until 100,000 miles? The car is currently in the low 9X,XXX. Is the $2.5K service range for each of the Big 3 repairs?

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by adr_M3 View Post

                      Appreciate the explanation. Are you saying that a Blackstone test can wait until 100,000 miles? The car is currently in the low 9X,XXX. Is the $2.5K service range for each of the Big 3 repairs?
                      I just bought a car with 144k I’m gonna do all the fluids just so I know their mileage. Oil should be changed every 5k so it it was done at 90K and 95K should be fine. Till the next 5K interval.

                      rod bearings should be the cheapest, but there’s a lot of should refresh items while your doing that service that can make it add up to 2.5K

                      Vanos depending on exhaust hub can be between 1.5-2.5K again few extra things you’ll want to replace while you’re in there.

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                        Does anyone have a PN or a suitable replacement for these caps on the ITBs?

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                          Thinking to cut off the inner metal lip on my rear fenders for better tire clearance/prevent rubbing with wider wheels and tires. Theyre currently pulled but the lip was just rolled rather than being shaved. Whats the best way that folks go about this? I was thinking to just tackle this with a dremel using a metal cutoff wheel after marking the area with a line.
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                            Theres rubber in that channel, I would remove that first with a wire wheel. Then you can roll the inner fender flat to the outer fender.

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