What did you do for your M3 today?

[nuc1]

Refreshed (clean & regrease) the rear axles. Needed to replace the driver's side inner CV joint as it apparently overheated (nice blue tint) causing pictured damage. To help, I heat-shield wrapped the exhaust pipe which runs directly underneath the driver's side CV joint. Fingers crossed.

Feff

Got a part number for the inner / outer CV joints?

Mike

[BlueBimmers]

Paid $3.74 for Shell 93, made me happy. Enjoy the little things in life.

[6speedS54]

Coolant flush, thermostat, gaskets, and coolant hoses replaced.

[Feffman]

Got a part number for the inner / outer CV joints?

Mike:

My axles are from The Driveshaft Shop. They don't show a part number on my invoice for the driver's side inner (attaches to differential) CV joint but it's a 108MM, 36 spline CV joint.

The BMW part number for the CV joint is 26117841003.

Feff

[Ragincajun5220]

Finally got my euro bumper on. Damaged my original one on a rogue parking strip that I didn’t see

shop had a hard time with the fitment but the trinity motorsports adjustable mounts helped a lot.

paint correction is up next, the m needs some tlc

[sd561]

After a year of meticulous planning and research, the car finally arrived at the shop for RACP reinforcement and major suspension overhaul.

Many thanks to Matt at Eurompire in Charlotte, NC for all of the coordination and efforts the last few months. he’s been great to work with!

[nahvkolaj]

It's finally rod bearing time. Got the top of the engine bay prepped yesterday and came across some annoying finds. Biggest one is that my water pump has been leaking and the shaft has some play after only 3 yrs / 17k miles. Idler/tensioner pulleys are all gone too. And I'm gonna bite the bullet and do a PS refresh because I have a few leaking lines.

Anyone know where to get the AC (spring type tensioner) pulley only? Really don't want the whole tensioner.




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[davidinnyc]

After 5 hours of baseball beginning at 8AM (I coach both kid's teams), continuation of my BBK installation today - Pierre is not really helping.

Shaved the front knuckles and trimmed the rear dust shield, treated the raw aluminum and tin with POR rust preventative, and now that it's dry I've installed RR brackets. After test fitting the brackets I do not need any spacers to clear the ZCP/CSL rotors… should be smooth sailing from here.

[Slideways]

It's finally rod bearing time. Got the top of the engine bay prepped yesterday and came across some annoying finds. Biggest one is that my water pump has been leaking and the shaft has some play after only 3 yrs / 17k miles. Idler/tensioner pulleys are all gone too. And I'm gonna bite the bullet and do a PS refresh because I have a few leaking lines.

Anyone know where to get the AC (spring type tensioner) pulley only? Really don't want the whole tensioner.




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They don't sell it separately. For stuff like this, Sreten at M539 buys the complete assembly from a certain aftermarket brand and transfer the pulley to the genuine unit. Some of the aftermarket ones come with quality brand pulleys.

I believe you could also convert the AC tensioner to the hydraulic type, same as the one for the drive belt. That pulley you can buy separately. Unfortunately, you do have to get the whole unit for the conversion.

[Nate047]

Some context: I did a big refresh, modify, and RACP repair over a year ago, but we had to move abruptly so I never really got the car done. I got it just done enough to move, then life happened, and now after a year long time based art project / paint torture test, I have some time and motivation to pick things back up.

Dropped the exhaust and got the driveshaft out today. I ended up with a concerning clunk after the whole rear end job, and today I believe I have found the culprit. The CV joint on the end of the driveshaft seems to be toast. I’m going to clean it out and check to make sure but maybe you guys can chime in. Trying to get a sanity check about this amount of movement / play. (I did find some little metal shavings / remnants of some sort in there as well which I feel is a pretty tell tale sign that shit’s fucked. Also, crucially, the gasket that’s supposed to be there, wasn’t.)

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/f41h6d4gieyk6qanfqv5n/Video-Mar-06-2025-12-52-52-PM.mov?rlkey=snunjxyor1os4q8mmi6geq90m&st=91grznsf&dl=0

[JokerElite]

Some context: I did a big refresh, modify, and RACP repair over a year ago, but we had to move abruptly so I never really got the car done. I got it just done enough to move, then life happened, and now after a year long time based art project / paint torture test, I have some time and motivation to pick things back up.

Dropped the exhaust and got the driveshaft out today. I ended up with a concerning clunk after the whole rear end job, and today I believe I have found the culprit. The CV joint on the end of the driveshaft seems to be toast. I’m going to clean it out and check to make sure but maybe you guys can chime in. Trying to get a sanity check about this amount of movement / play. (I did find some little metal shavings / remnants of some sort in there as well which I feel is a pretty tell tale sign that shit’s fucked. Also, crucially, the gasket that’s supposed to be there, wasn’t.)

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/f41h6d4gieyk6qanfqv5n/Video-Mar-06-2025-12-52-52-PM.mov?rlkey=snunjxyor1os4q8mmi6geq90m&st=91grznsf&dl=0

If you remove the snap ring you can clean up all the grease with a towel and have a better look at any potential damage. If that truly is a metal chunk it isn't a good sign. If it looks and moves fine you can order a new boot with grease but normally it is supposed to move more freely.

[Nate047]

If you remove the snap ring you can clean up all the grease with a towel and have a better look at any potential damage. If that truly is a metal chunk it isn't a good sign. If it looks and moves fine you can order a new boot with grease but normally it is supposed to move more freely.

I’m going to open it up and take a look, tbh I don’t really know how much movement it’s supposed to have. I’ve never handled a healthy one.

[kaiv]

Anyone know where to get the AC (spring type tensioner) pulley only? Really don't want the whole tensioner.

11287549557 works well.

[Wernd]

It's been a process the last few weeks and I'm almost done. The rogue oil cooler required the ac condenser to be shortened thanks to dsm metal it appears to not be leaking 🤞. The new mishimoto oil lines also came in handy as the custom one I had built wasn't going to fit under the csl intake. Thankfully mishimoto makes a clamp for their oil lines and I was able to use the stock mounting location on the back of the power steering pump with some modification.
The new spal fan was pretty straight forward
As with my ZHP the new AAF brake cooling required modification to the ac dryer lines but that typical and the lower fender liners.
The splitter and lip were also quite a chore as they don't really line up well with the bumper. Some fender washers for backing and two men pushing to sandwich the lip and bumper while setting the rivets did the trick.
Hopefully today I get the oil lines done and get to start the beast!

[AbbeyRoad]

Ordered a back up OEM CSL front bumper kit from Schmiedmann. Need to figure out if there's an OEM CSL washer fluid reservoir available for a no headllght washer M3.