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Maybe this is a dumb question but I haven't found the answer so far. When installing new cross over pipes and bleeders on these calipers, do we just thread them on bare? How tight do these need to be?
I believe the bleeder screws are around 8nm. I've used a torque wrench on a bleeder and I've only seen one guy use one. I also caught him torquing underbody screw to 2.8nm. Just snug but not too tight. A solid 10-15nm will do
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/229329-porsche-brembo-996-bbk-conversion-let-s-figure-out-how-to-fix-the-dust-boots-seals?p=238109#post238109
Let's start off with the issue: The factory 996 seals don't seem to be able to take the heat of tracking. These were <500 mile old OE Porsche:
This
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
Any thoughts on 996 BBK clearance with E39-spec'd BBS RG-Rs? I have a set of 996 calipers being prepped but was looking to plan ahead in terms of fitment with the current wheel setup.
18x8.5 ET22 Front
18x10 ET25 Rear
The general consensus seems to be that it won't clear, and I believe Repoman has already test fitted them and found that it won't clear,
But I was also able to find someone who did get them to work with E46-spec RG-Rs (18x8.5 ET38 Fronts) with a 12mm spacer up front (guessing based on the owner's previous posts):
A 12 mm spacer would effectively make the front specs 18x8.5 ET26.
I can’t answer your question. However I have an e39 M5 and have been looking for the RG-Rs, and I live in MA. Let me know if you ever sell those wheels. Serious (I’m a mature adult, just have a car parts problem).
For anyone using front Porsche calipers with stock rear, what pads are you using? Just for street use right now, track pads seem a little easier to find info on.
For anyone using front Porsche calipers with stock rear, what pads are you using? Just for street use right now, track pads seem a little easier to find info on.
For street use prob doesn't really matter that much, Akebono, Textars, etc.
Just so you are aware with that front/rear setup, you are running underpowered fronts with stock rear, shifting your bias to around 62-63%. As long as you are aware/prepared for at threshold track experiences. Can definitely work around it by running much higher mu front pad, keeping as much weight in the rear as possible (muffler/battery/seats), tighter front compression/rear rebound, negative rake, blah blah, but anyway, all of that has other associated handling repercussions.
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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