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    Originally posted by Zhpghost View Post
    What's everyone's favorite steering wheel? Race car/leds/oem?
    I would think around here you'll find OEM/OEM + (kinda of cringe at that term but you get it) would be the choice for a mainly street driven car.

    My M3 came with a CF flatbottom wheel, I thought it was just too much and came off as chessy so swapped it with OEM. Whatever YOU like man.
    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
    Instagram

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      Currently replacing upper control arm bushings. I must be tired and missing something, or TIS has it backwards.

      TIS states to have the long end of the bushing so that is points up or away from the chamfered end of the control arm bore. This would result in the long end of the bushing pointing forwards.

      Watcha guys think?
      Attached Files
      Last edited by bavarian3; 11-03-2023, 12:20 AM.

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        What stacking order do the underside fuel filter cover and two leftside plastic trays go in? Does the smaller plastic driverside tray go after/atop the fuel filter cover? Or does it tuck under the fuel filter cover, then the bigger left side tray atop that (not pictured, it’s # 6 in the realoem screengrab). My car was missing the bigger tray so don’t have reference to what the order is supposed to be when installing these pieces, thanks!
        Click image for larger version  Name:	1071FE81-A32E-4B42-B8A7-B939527D6272.jpg Views:	55 Size:	136.5 KB ID:	240547 Click image for larger version  Name:	452D1A85-8E3E-4949-BF8B-C87D4A257336.jpg Views:	52 Size:	106.8 KB ID:	240552

        In madrussian’s DIY screenshot, the smaller driverside tray seems to be after both the fuel filter cover and bigger tray, but doesn't seem like the screw would even reach?
        Click image for larger version  Name:	BC50B7B5-D2F0-4AB7-84D3-F110E0617C20.jpg Views:	55 Size:	90.0 KB ID:	240548
        Attached Files
        Last edited by BigRussia; 11-04-2023, 09:03 AM.
        2004 CB/Cinnamon 6MT Coupe
        Instagram
        Youtube

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          Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
          Currently replacing upper control arm bushings. I must be tired and missing something, or TIS has it backwards.

          TIS states to have the long end of the bushing so that is points up or away from the chamfered end of the control arm bore. This would result in the long end of the bushing pointing forwards.

          Watcha guys think?
          See 20:40 onward. He’s doing a conversion but may answer your question.
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Nbg...b3JhdGlvbnM%3D

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            Looking for a really dumb ELI5 explanation on how to power accessories in a race car (SPAL fan, blowers/cooler fans, cool suit, diff cooler pump, etc.).

            Power goes to fuse box -> find an empty slot -> wire in the +/-/ground for the item your powering? I know I can get power straight from battery but I rather avoid wiring direct to battery even with switches.

            Thanks

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              Crossposting from a thread in the detailing forum for visibility:

              Just picked up the car from the shop and, of course, it's filthy because I couldn't pick it up when it was ready last week, and it sat outside (my fault not theirs). Does anyone have strong opinions on how long after painting one should wait before washing? I've read some places insist on a full 4 weeks, some say 1-2 weeks, and the shop that did the paint work said it actually doesn't matter and I can wash it today (they did say I need to wait a month before doing ceramic coating or PPF though).

              Would love to wash it today and enjoy my fresh new paint, but is this a bad idea?​

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                Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
                Crossposting from a thread in the detailing forum for visibility:

                Just picked up the car from the shop and, of course, it's filthy because I couldn't pick it up when it was ready last week, and it sat outside (my fault not theirs). Does anyone have strong opinions on how long after painting one should wait before washing? I've read some places insist on a full 4 weeks, some say 1-2 weeks, and the shop that did the paint work said it actually doesn't matter and I can wash it today (they did say I need to wait a month before doing ceramic coating or PPF though).

                Would love to wash it today and enjoy my fresh new paint, but is this a bad idea?​
                Washing it with normal car wash soap should be fine. Solvents, waxes or coatings could be problematic as the paint is still off-gassing.

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                  A lot of folks use HJS cats or a euro section after going aftermarket headers. Is it not possible to sacrifice stock headers for the original cats then have them welded to the section 1?

                  Comment


                    Upgrading from 1WNR to 3WR suspension. Sprint race car. Would I seriously regret not also moving to true rear coil over from divorced? I would need to add a little more integration of shock towers to cage but it is doable.

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                      Originally posted by fourmula1 View Post
                      Upgrading from 1WNR to 3WR suspension. Sprint race car. Would I seriously regret not also moving to true rear coil over from divorced? I would need to add a little more integration of shock towers to cage but it is doable.
                      This is an interesting question.

                      What's the downside to the divorced setup?
                      2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                      Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                      2012 Mazda5 6MT
                      Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
                        This is an interesting question.

                        What's the downside to the divorced setup?
                        I guess that is part of what I'm asking. I think the true rear coil over is easier to access, measure, and adjust. There are more spring rate options and there is more "granularity" or sensitivity to the longer outboard spring. Does that really matter on our 2800-3100lb race cars with typical aero? What else don't we know?

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                          Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
                          This is an interesting question.

                          What's the downside to the divorced setup?
                          It's beyond my pay grade, but Bry5on made an argument in favor of the divorced spring/shock: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...422#post219422
                          2003 Imola Red M3 w/ SMG

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                            Would anyone with CPV laying around be able to give me the drive slot dimensions please?
                            Last edited by PSUEng; 11-15-2023, 06:16 PM.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
                              Would anyone with CPV laying around be able to give me the drive slot dimensions please?
                              I've used a 9/16 drag link socket to replace my cpv.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by K-Dawg View Post
                                It's beyond my pay grade, but Bry5on made an argument in favor of the divorced spring/shock: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...422#post219422
                                Saw this, and tried to understand it with his help, but still don't...
                                2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                                Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                                2012 Mazda5 6MT
                                Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

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