Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Casa de Mesa]

Yeah fair enough. I guess it depends on the extent that you are disassembling everything else. In my case I was pulling the motor to rebuild and everything else was going to be more or less undisturbed so it made more sense to disconnect each connector. Helped when putting everything back together as well.

Yep. Wasn't countering you just for shits and giggles, simply offering another vantage point!

[Nate047]

On FCP, are the parts listed as MAP eligible for the lifetime replacement thing?

[IamFODI]

On FCP, are the parts listed as MAP eligible for the lifetime replacement thing?

Everything that’s physically possible to return is eligible, MAP or no MAP.

[Bimmerdude]

When doing rod bearings, do you perform the triple turn torque sequence to check clearance with plastigauge, undo bolts, apply assembly lube, then repeat the entire fastening sequence for final assembly?

Also, should the rod bolts have assembly lube on them the entire process?

My thinking was to use old bolts to plastiguage as the new ones are supposed to go through the torqueing sequence one time only. Are you using factory or ARP bolts? I believe that determines assembly lube use. I have old style bolts so didn't have to worry about all of this. Answering because I just did this job. Read the DIY on here a couple times through and should find everything you need.

[DoubleSidedTape]

When doing rod bearings, do you perform the triple turn torque sequence to check clearance with plastigauge, undo bolts, apply assembly lube, then repeat the entire fastening sequence for final assembly?

Also, should the rod bolts have assembly lube on them the entire process?

With new bolts, you do the first torque sequence, using no oil/assembly lube on the cap bearing, measure your plastigage, then clean the crank journal and apply the assembly lube and do the second and third torque sequence.

[tlow98]

I disconnected the main motor harness at the DME and left it attached to the motor. However, I removed the O2 sensor and camshaft sensor wiring from the top of the motor. Should be able to lay these on top of the DME if memory serves me correct.

Look at the pics in my build thread for reference, both for removal and install. You'll see the main harness attached to the motor for both. However, in some regards this is personal preference as to which path you choose.

Edit: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...831#post154831

Thanks to both of you, this is helpful. In the end, as mine is SMG it's proving to be an incredible pain to remove every connector as several are blocked by the SMG controls. And since I'm pulling the trans with the motor I have decided to disconnect everything from the DME and pull the harness with the car.

I'm doing a full rebuild, so I will need to disconnect it all eventually, but this is proving to be faster and easier on the body. It stinks to be bent over the engine bay for hours!

[Casa de Mesa]

If you get the bumper out of the way first, it's monumentally easier to spend time in the engine bay. Highly recommend if you haven't already....

[meowth]

With new bolts, you do the first torque sequence, using no oil/assembly lube on the cap bearing, measure your plastigage, then clean the crank journal and apply the assembly lube and do the second and third torque sequence.

Thanks big time. You just saved me a whole lotta hurt.

My thinking was to use old bolts to plastiguage as the new ones are supposed to go through the torqueing sequence one time only. Are you using factory or ARP bolts? I believe that determines assembly lube use. I have old style bolts so didn't have to worry about all of this. Answering because I just did this job. Read the DIY on here a couple times through and should find everything you need.

Using factory M10s. Going with DoubleSidedTape's recommendation cause it sounds the most efficient. Thanks for passing on the tips mane

[FBloggs]

Is there a way to determine by appearance if a seatbelt pyro tensioner has discharged?

[tlow98]

If you get the bumper out of the way first, it's monumentally easier to spend time in the engine bay. Highly recommend if you haven't already....

absolutely, whole front is def gone already.

[tlow98]

I was pulling my driveshaft today and…

the E-torqs bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear diff were covered in CV grease when I pulled them out. Not in the outside of the bolt heads and also there were no CV leaks that I could see. Also, there is some play at the center u-joint near the center support bearing.

1 ) Does this mean my CV joint is blown? This did not happen when I did the same to my 330i D/S and diff.

2) is it common for these driveshafts (u-joints) to be rebuilt or do you have to buy new?

thanks for everything and happy 4th all!

[Casa de Mesa]

Probably is the seal that's past its prime or never put back in place when whoever dropped the d/s the last time did the job. How many miles?

Pretty sure you can buy the CV at the rear of the d/s.

Edit: part #14 and 21

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BL93-USA-09-2002-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=26_0197

[tlow98]

Probably is the seal that's past its prime or never put back in place when whoever dropped the d/s the last time did the job. How many miles?

Pretty sure you can buy the CV at the rear of the d/s.

Edit: part #14 and 21

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=26_0197

Thanks for this - super helpful.

211k on this project, aka, hooptie, haha. I wanted a revival project, so here I am.

interesting, what you said about someone in there recently as the guibo and center support bearing are basically new with blue markers on all the bolts.

can the center u-joint be rebuilt or is the play ‘normal’?

[Casa de Mesa]

The center support bearing (part #7 in that RealOEM link) can be replaced, but the center u-joint cannot.

At 211k, guaranteed the guibo would have been replaced or a would otherwise have significant cracking. If it looks okay and in relatively good shape, then you know the guibo has at least been replaced. If that is the case, chances are better than average that the drive shaft has been dropped from the car at some point. That seal that mates/seals the drive shaft CV to the rear diff should be replaced every time the drive shaft is separated from that joint.

Good on you for refreshing one of these cars!!

[tlow98]

The center support bearing (part #7 in that RealOEM link) can be replaced, but the center u-joint cannot.

At 211k, guaranteed the guibo would have been replaced or a would otherwise have significant cracking. If it looks okay and in relatively good shape, then you know the guibo has at least been replaced. If that is the case, chances are better than average that the drive shaft has been dropped from the car at some point. That seal that mates/seals the drive shaft CV to the rear diff should be replaced every time the drive shaft is separated from that joint.

Good on you for refreshing one of these cars!!

Thanks for all of this. After some searching it seems you just need to buy a new D/S when the u-joints have play.

And yes, the center support bearing is basically new looking. My other car with 113k on it looks far, far worse for wear. Someone was definitely been in here recently. Shame they didn’t replace the whole thing for me! Ha