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    Originally posted by SL Blak Soldier View Post

    What would I be sacrificing running the hawks? ..initial bite? I didn't read any bad reviews, so i'm curious.

    I also am not looking for completely dustless... just less than the texar pads.
    This was my experience https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ke-a-bad-combo
    17 iO1 i3
    16 F22 M235i
    08 E93 M3
    04 E46 M3 Carbon Schwarz - SMG II - Discovery Automotive tuned - AFE Stage 2 - SS Stepped - SS Metallic Cats - Eisenmann X-pipe - SS Race - 4.10 - ACS CF lip - 6000K Heads & Fogs - Tein S

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      Originally posted by SL Blak Soldier View Post

      What would I be sacrificing running the hawks? ..initial bite? I didn't read any bad reviews, so i'm curious.

      I also am not looking for completely dustless... just less than the texar pads.
      I ran the Ferodo Ds2500's last weekend at the track despite what I have read here. I loved them compared to the OEM pads. Less dust, better modulation and no fade for me compared to the OEM pads at the same track a couple of weeks before.

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        Originally posted by SL Blak Soldier View Post
        What would I be sacrificing running the hawks? ..initial bite? I didn't read any bad reviews, so i'm curious.
        Typically, HPS gives a bit more fade resistance than the stock pad but might generate less initial bite and more noise. Also, as a rule of thumb, you can expect rotor wear to be on the fast side with a Hawk compound than with many/most comparables. It all varies by application though and I'm not familiar with this one.


        Originally posted by lvm3sm46 View Post
        I ran the Ferodo Ds2500's last weekend at the track despite what I have read here. I loved them compared to the OEM pads. Less dust, better modulation and no fade for me compared to the OEM pads at the same track a couple of weeks before.
        I also had a decent experience with DS2500 on track. It was noisy on the street, though. And holy hell does it wear quickly on track.
        2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
        Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

        2012 Mazda5 6MT
        Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

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          The HPS pad has less initial bite than stock and the HP+ pad is noisy. In my experience, non-OE pad compounds also can leave pad imprints on the rotor that are really hard to get off if you wash your car and park it immediately after.

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            Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
            I also had a decent experience with DS2500 on track. It was noisy on the street, though. And holy hell does it wear quickly on track.
            At the end of the day you just have to try several different pads to see what works for you. I love ferodos (1.11s) on my other car, good feel and gentle on rotors, but they do give me a long pedal after about 1/2 pad life even on that car. 2500s gave me a miserably long pedal tracking the M3 right away... Hated them - and they dusted more than the textars on the street. You have the answer with the PFC-08s for track work. I leave my 08s on the car during track season, but also put less than 1k non-track miles on the car during that timeframe. They eat rotors but the bite (even when cold on the street) and pedal feel is phenomenal.

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              What is this part? I was at the track and this flew into the passenger footwell on hard braking.

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              2005 6MT TiAg | 1:47.01 @ Laguna Seca
              ..........................| 1:58.93 @ Sonoma

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                Originally posted by ridebikes View Post
                What is this part? I was at the track and this flew into the passenger footwell on hard braking.

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                Isofix mount under the rear seat bench.

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                  Originally posted by Thoglan View Post

                  Isofix mount under the rear seat bench.
                  That's exactly right.



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                  Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

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                    What deadening is that??

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                      S3diment , they are a couple of a yoga mats from Walmart cut to fit. They are temporary until I replace the solid differential bushings I stupidly installed. They are light enough to not make a weight impact really, but cutdown on the diff whine from the solid bushings. Works pretty good. Not spectacular, but get rid of enough to of the high pitch whine that drives me nuts.

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                      Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

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                        When pulling the motor and you already have the intake
                        manifold off…

                        Does it make more sense to pull the harness with the motor or without?

                        Or said another way, should I disconnect all the sensors from the motor or pull the main harness disconnect from the DME?

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                          Originally posted by tlow98 View Post
                          When pulling the motor and you already have the intake
                          manifold off…

                          Does it make more sense to pull the harness with the motor or without?

                          Or said another way, should I disconnect all the sensors from the motor or pull the main harness disconnect from the DME?
                          From memory there isn't an easy way to bulk disconnect the main harness from the dme. Leave the harness box peice all in place and disconnected everything from the motor is how I did it.

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                            When doing rod bearings, do you perform the triple turn torque sequence to check clearance with plastigauge, undo bolts, apply assembly lube, then repeat the entire fastening sequence for final assembly?

                            Also, should the rod bolts have assembly lube on them the entire process?

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                              Originally posted by Thoglan View Post

                              From memory there isn't an easy way to bulk disconnect the main harness from the dme. Leave the harness box peice all in place and disconnected everything from the motor is how I did it.
                              I disconnected the main motor harness at the DME and left it attached to the motor. However, I removed the O2 sensor and camshaft sensor wiring from the top of the motor. Should be able to lay these on top of the DME if memory serves me correct.

                              Look at the pics in my build thread for reference, both for removal and install. You'll see the main harness attached to the motor for both. However, in some regards this is personal preference as to which path you choose.

                              Edit: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...831#post154831
                              Last edited by Casa de Mesa; 06-28-2022, 10:26 AM.
                              Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post

                                I disconnected the main motor harness at the DME and left it attached to the motor. However, I removed the O2 sensor and camshaft sensor wiring from the top of the motor. Should be able to lay these on top of the DME if memory serves me correct.

                                Look at the pics in my build thread for reference, both for removal and install. You'll see the main harness attached to the motor for both. However, in some regards this is personal preference as to which path you choose.

                                Edit: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...831#post154831
                                Yeah fair enough. I guess it depends on the extent that you are disassembling everything else. In my case I was pulling the motor to rebuild and everything else was going to be more or less undisturbed so it made more sense to disconnect each connector. Helped when putting everything back together as well.

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