Originally posted by SL Blak Soldier
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Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed
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I ran the Ferodo Ds2500's last weekend at the track despite what I have read here. I loved them compared to the OEM pads. Less dust, better modulation and no fade for me compared to the OEM pads at the same track a couple of weeks before.Originally posted by SL Blak Soldier View Post
What would I be sacrificing running the hawks? ..initial bite? I didn't read any bad reviews, so i'm curious.
I also am not looking for completely dustless... just less than the texar pads.
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Typically, HPS gives a bit more fade resistance than the stock pad but might generate less initial bite and more noise. Also, as a rule of thumb, you can expect rotor wear to be on the fast side with a Hawk compound than with many/most comparables. It all varies by application though and I'm not familiar with this one.Originally posted by SL Blak Soldier View PostWhat would I be sacrificing running the hawks? ..initial bite? I didn't read any bad reviews, so i'm curious.
I also had a decent experience with DS2500 on track. It was noisy on the street, though. And holy hell does it wear quickly on track.Originally posted by lvm3sm46 View PostI ran the Ferodo Ds2500's last weekend at the track despite what I have read here. I loved them compared to the OEM pads. Less dust, better modulation and no fade for me compared to the OEM pads at the same track a couple of weeks before.2008 E90 M3 6MT
Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions
2011 E90 328i 6MT
RWD, slicktop, no iDrive
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At the end of the day you just have to try several different pads to see what works for you. I love ferodos (1.11s) on my other car, good feel and gentle on rotors, but they do give me a long pedal after about 1/2 pad life even on that car. 2500s gave me a miserably long pedal tracking the M3 right away... Hated them - and they dusted more than the textars on the street. You have the answer with the PFC-08s for track work. I leave my 08s on the car during track season, but also put less than 1k non-track miles on the car during that timeframe. They eat rotors but the bite (even when cold on the street) and pedal feel is phenomenal.Originally posted by IamFODI View PostI also had a decent experience with DS2500 on track. It was noisy on the street, though. And holy hell does it wear quickly on track.
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That's exactly right.Originally posted by Thoglan View Post
Isofix mount under the rear seat bench.
Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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S3diment , they are a couple of a yoga mats from Walmart cut to fit. They are temporary until I replace the solid differential bushings I stupidly installed. They are light enough to not make a weight impact really, but cutdown on the diff whine from the solid bushings. Works pretty good. Not spectacular, but get rid of enough to of the high pitch whine that drives me nuts.
Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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From memory there isn't an easy way to bulk disconnect the main harness from the dme. Leave the harness box peice all in place and disconnected everything from the motor is how I did it.Originally posted by tlow98 View PostWhen pulling the motor and you already have the intake
manifold off…
Does it make more sense to pull the harness with the motor or without?
Or said another way, should I disconnect all the sensors from the motor or pull the main harness disconnect from the DME?
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I disconnected the main motor harness at the DME and left it attached to the motor. However, I removed the O2 sensor and camshaft sensor wiring from the top of the motor. Should be able to lay these on top of the DME if memory serves me correct.Originally posted by Thoglan View Post
From memory there isn't an easy way to bulk disconnect the main harness from the dme. Leave the harness box peice all in place and disconnected everything from the motor is how I did it.
Look at the pics in my build thread for reference, both for removal and install. You'll see the main harness attached to the motor for both. However, in some regards this is personal preference as to which path you choose.
Edit: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...831#post154831Last edited by Casa de Mesa; 06-28-2022, 09:26 AM.Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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Yeah fair enough. I guess it depends on the extent that you are disassembling everything else. In my case I was pulling the motor to rebuild and everything else was going to be more or less undisturbed so it made more sense to disconnect each connector. Helped when putting everything back together as well.Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
I disconnected the main motor harness at the DME and left it attached to the motor. However, I removed the O2 sensor and camshaft sensor wiring from the top of the motor. Should be able to lay these on top of the DME if memory serves me correct.
Look at the pics in my build thread for reference, both for removal and install. You'll see the main harness attached to the motor for both. However, in some regards this is personal preference as to which path you choose.
Edit: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...831#post154831
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