Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Cubieman]

I'd suggest finding a shop that deals with track/race cars next time. A bit more expensive than at a regular alignment place, but they'll be more familiar with non-stock setups and usually take more care to get the settings exact.

Bonus points if you find a place that has a couple e46 m3 track cars parked outside.

The closet place would be in Kansas City, which is quite a drive from Lincoln, but would likely be worth it.
When I switch out for better coils it'll likely go to Chicane Racing in KC for the alignment. The only euro shop in my town doesn't do alignments unfortunately.

[heinzboehmer]

The closet place would be in Kansas City, which is quite a drive from Lincoln, but would likely be worth it.
When I switch out for better coils it'll likely go to Chicane Racing in KC for the alignment. The only euro shop in my town doesn't do alignments unfortunately.

Damn, yeah that's a long drive for an alignment. Not familiar with the area, but race tracks usually have some good shops that tend to be bad about advertising their presence on google maps (or equivalent). It seems like they have enough clientele from people breaking their cars on the track to have a need for advertising. Maybe that's an option you could explore? Otherwise, string alignments can be pretty accurate with the right tools!

[DoubleSidedTape]

Damn, yeah that's a long drive for an alignment. Not familiar with the area, but race tracks usually have some good shops that tend to be bad about advertising their presence on google maps (or equivalent). It seems like they have enough clientele from people breaking their cars on the track to have a need for advertising. Maybe that's an option you could explore? Otherwise, string alignments can be pretty accurate with the right tools!

I'm pretty good at using string to set toe, but what do you use to measure camber? I was thinking about getting a laser level and trying to measure the distance from a vertical line to the top and bottom of the wheel, but that assumes that the floor is level.

[heinzboehmer]

I'm pretty good at using string to set toe, but what do you use to measure camber? I was thinking about getting a laser level and trying to measure the distance from a vertical line to the top and bottom of the wheel, but that assumes that the floor is level.

I don't use anything, not enough space lol. Just have seen others do it. And yes making sure the surface is level is super important. Most turn/slip plates seem to be adjustable to get a level surface.

timmo and Casa de Mesa (and I'm sure others) have nice setups though. Probably more fit to answer your question.

[Casa de Mesa]

I don't use anything, not enough space lol. Just have seen others do it. And yes making sure the surface is level is super important. Most turn/slip plates seem to be adjustable to get a level surface.

timmo and Casa de Mesa (and I'm sure others) have nice setups though. Probably more fit to answer your question.

I wouldn't say I'm more fit for anything, lol

I find camber the easiest of all 3 measurements (camber, caster, toe) to measure. It can be as simple as a 24" digital level that you hold against the wheel face (provided the level is of the right length).

However, after doing this a bunch, at one point I grabbed one of these on sale at ECS (currently "on sale" for $128):

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-wheel-mount-kit-for-magnetic-caster-camber-gauge/010891sch01a/

Or with their Caster/Camber gauge for $190 - pretty good pricing actually:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-wheel-mount-kit-magnetic-caster-camber-gauge/010891sch01akt/

Or for a less expensive camber gauge, you just need a simple magnetic level. The one I bought on Amazon is NLA apparently but this one looks decent:

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-935DAG-Electronic-Measures/dp/B07ZWW3BW5/

Or search for "digital level magnetic" and you'll have your pick of the litter:

https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=digital+level+magnetic&sprefix=Digital+level+ma%2Caps%2C197&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_16

Here is my method:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/133276-string-alignment-setup-spreadsheet

I need to actually write up a DIY for it, but the steps inside that spreadsheet (Google docs link) are what I follow every time.

It's a PITA to do a full alignment and definitely gets easier the more you do it, but I find it more accurate than going to a shop. It's not the $80k Hunter alignment jigs that are at some shops that are the problem, but the patience of the person doing the alignment.

[zzyzx85]

Has anyone tried NGK Iridium IX DCPR8EIX 97181 spark plugs? Been using NGK Laser Platinum DCPR8EKP 7415 spark plugs without any issues (OE part) and "don't fix it if it isn't broken" but just curious if anyone has tried them.

I wonder if the single vs. double ground electrodes makes any difference.

edit: guess it's time to be a guinea pig!

[Nate047]

Having an issue with my front turn signals. Both bulbs are acting weird, working fine and then not working at all randomly, blinking at double speed for a second before going back to normal, etc... Inside of both sockets are corroded badly, and the bulb contacts look like they are melted.

I have replaced the bulbs and actual sockets some time ago, but the problem persists and comes back after a while. Any ideas on the root cause or how to diagnose this? Or do I just keep replacing the sockets and bulbs every year LOL.

[Slideways]

Having an issue with my front turn signals. Both bulbs are acting weird, working fine and then not working at all randomly, blinking at double speed for a second before going back to normal, etc... Inside of both sockets are corroded badly, and the bulb contacts look like they are melted.

I have replaced the bulbs and actual sockets some time ago, but the problem persists and comes back after a while. Any ideas on the root cause or how to diagnose this? Or do I just keep replacing the sockets and bulbs every year LOL.

Does the corrosion return after replacing the terminals? If not, you'll have continue past the wiring terminals, possibly all the way to the LCM.

[Nate047]

Does the corrosion return after replacing the terminals? If not, you'll have continue past the wiring terminals, possibly all the way to the LCM.

I'm gonna make a thread about it. But long story short, yes it comes back and does the same thing after replacing the sockets.

[DJAM3]

Has anyone tried NGK Iridium IX DCPR8EIX 97181 spark plugs? Been using NGK Laser Platinum DCPR8EKP 7415 spark plugs without any issues (OE part) and "don't fix it if it isn't broken" but just curious if anyone has tried them.

I wonder if the single vs. double ground electrodes makes any difference.

edit: guess it's time to be a guinea pig!

I've run the DCPR8EIX plugs in my car for 10 years with no issues.

Having an issue with my front turn signals. Both bulbs are acting weird, working fine and then not working at all randomly, blinking at double speed for a second before going back to normal, etc... Inside of both sockets are corroded badly, and the bulb contacts look like they are melted.....

I had the fast blink issue before. Eventually my tail lights started having issues and the warning light on the dash came on. Checked the grounds for the tail lights and they were burnt out. Fixed the grounds and somehow the fast blink went away.

[grannyknot]

I wouldn't say I'm more fit for anything, lol

I find camber the easiest of all 3 measurements (camber, caster, toe) to measure. It can be as simple as a 24" digital level that you hold against the wheel face (provided the level is of the right length).

However, after doing this a bunch, at one point I grabbed one of these on sale at ECS (currently "on sale" for $128):

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-wheel-mount-kit-for-magnetic-caster-camber-gauge/010891sch01a/

Or with their Caster/Camber gauge for $190 - pretty good pricing actually:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-wheel-mount-kit-magnetic-caster-camber-gauge/010891sch01akt/

Or for a less expensive camber gauge, you just need a simple magnetic level. The one I bought on Amazon is NLA apparently but this one looks decent:

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-935DAG-Electronic-Measures/dp/B07ZWW3BW5/

Or search for "digital level magnetic" and you'll have your pick of the litter:

https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=digital+level+magnetic&sprefix=Digital+level+ma%2Caps%2C197&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_16

Here is my method:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/133276-string-alignment-setup-spreadsheet

I need to actually write up a DIY for it, but the steps inside that spreadsheet (Google docs link) are what I follow every time.

It's a PITA to do a full alignment and definitely gets easier the more you do it, but I find it more accurate than going to a shop. It's not the $80k Hunter alignment jigs that are at some shops that are the problem, but the patience of the person doing the alignment.

Just to add to this list, I've used this tool to align 4 different cars now and I find it to be very accurate, the first 2 cars I used it on I also took in to a shop for a Pro alignment, the operator told me they were only a smidge off.

https://wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/

[Cubieman]

If using a one piece strut brace (like a DMG) would losing alignment ever be a worry when removing the brace so long as the wheels are on the ground or is this a non-issue?

I would like to get a more substantial brace like a DMG, I know there are a few designs that have joints to allow for removal of just the brace portion but I'm not looking to spend that kind of $.

[zzyzx85]

If using a one piece strut brace (like a DMG) would losing alignment ever be a worry when removing the brace so long as the wheels are on the ground or is this a non-issue?

I would like to get a more substantial brace like a DMG, I know there are a few designs that have joints to allow for removal of just the brace portion but I'm not looking to spend that kind of $.

I wondered this myself. I would think the weight of the car would keep it from shifting when unbolted but I don't know for sure.

[Nate047]

had the fast blink issue before. Eventually my tail lights started having issues and the warning light on the dash came on. Checked the grounds for the tail lights and they were burnt out. Fixed the grounds and somehow the fast blink went away.

Where exactly are the grounds located?

[zzyzx85]

Where exactly are the grounds located?

The one in the rear is in the driver side trunk area behind the trim. It's near the shock tower iirc. There's another one up front iirc. I think it's on the passenger side behind the turn signal lamp?