Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[MTiz]

Grey and black go together like peanut butter and jelly and while it obviously won't be factory if what you are moving to is in vastly superior condition then it will be a win.

Here is a pic where I'm currently moving to Imola but not swapping the dash. It will look great IMO and the reason I'm not touching the dash is because it is immaculate. Not a single blemish and everything else usually has problems.

Consider me sold. My dash is actually in great condition whereas my grey front seats are horrible. Black carpet, seats, two-tone door cards like yours, and black/grey dash would be hot . How hard was swapping your carpet, or did you just dye it while it was still in the car? I've seen videos of people cutting the old carpet out and installing the new one with very few issues.

[oceansize]

Consider me sold. My dash is actually in great condition whereas my grey front seats are horrible. Black carpet, seats, two-tone door cards like yours, and black/grey dash would be hot . How hard was swapping your carpet, or did you just dye it while it was still in the car? I've seen videos of people cutting the old carpet out and installing the new one with very few issues.

I pulled out the old grey carpet and cut the new black front section into two parts. Removing the old carpet I started at the center console and took a small thin metal plate and shimmed it between the floorboard and carpet so I wouldn't cut any wires and went very slow. Once you start making cuts you peel the carpet ahead to see what is underneath. You can't see any of the old grey carpet that I left in the center, see second pic below for a floor level view.

[BrubakerAgain]

How do you pronounce guibo?

gwibo?
gweebo?

Some other way?

[oceansize]

How do you pronounce guibo?

gwibo?
gweebo?

Some other way?

JOO-boh or

the "OO=boot"

the "oh=boat"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giubo

[BrubakerAgain]

JOO-boh or

the "OO=boot"

the "oh=boat"


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giubo

Well crap, I was pretty far off, wasn't I?

Thanks for the info.

[IamFODI]

Well crap, I was pretty far off, wasn't I?

Thanks for the info.

AFAICT the misspelling and mispronunciation are far more common than the correct versions, so it's not just you. Congratulations on joining the [small number] percent. 😀

[Swizbeatz]

What is the easiest way to figure out if I’ll have any issues with a wheel/tire setup when wanting to change suspension? I have wheels that were originally on a Z4M, super wide in the rear. Been great so far but I need a suspension refresh and would like to go Koni/Dinan springs.

[Syfon]

The S54 Training Module pdf document states Cylinder Head Machining Is Not Permitted.

As far as I understand (I recall reading this somewhere a while back), you can machine the head no more than 0.005" ? Can anyone confirm this is true or not?

Furthermore, what about decking the cylinder block?

Both my cylinder head and block have been faced and decked respectively. My machine shop advised the head was machined 0.003", however I did not ask how much the block was decked.

Can anyone provide some information on this matter? How far can you face the head or deck the block before you change clearances too much and have the situation where a piston hits a valve at higher rpm's?

Cheers

[why_m3]

hey guys, why can't I post in the WTB/WTS? need some interior pieces for my M3.

[FBloggs]

Does anyone have a wiring schematic for a 7/2004 m3?
I'm having a no-crank, no-start.
code is ( 0F voltage supply ews3 control module), or (2 ews vehicle immobiliser) per schwaben..
clutch module ok. No clutch switch.
key ok.
ign switch ok.
starter good.
Fuses good
circuit breakers good.
E box fuses good.
looking at relays now.
battery good.
12v at engine bay stud.

[FBloggs]

What is the easiest way to figure out if I’ll have any issues with a wheel/tire setup when wanting to change suspension? I have wheels that were originally on a Z4M, super wide in the rear. Been great so far but I need a suspension refresh and would like to go Koni/Dinan springs.

I have 275 on 9.5" x18 ET22 with koni/Eibach....no rubbing until I added 12mm spacers.
you should be ok. Dinan have a conservative drop.

[keljos]

Hey all - I recently picked up a SS Sport muffler and some new RE exhaust hangers to replace the existing ones (which I assume will be in relatively poor shape once i get a look at them). What additional hardware/components should I make sure to replace while i'm replacing the stock muffler? Thinking mainly around the connection point to the section 2 pipes? New gaskets? Bolts/etc.? Any other tips you wish you knew in advance?

*Edit: is a kit like this recommended? Would this be missing anything worth replacing? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...18111719417kt/

[heinzboehmer]

Hey all - I recently picked up a SS Sport muffler and some new RE exhaust hangers to replace the existing ones (which I assume will be in relatively poor shape once i get a look at them). What additional hardware/components should I make sure to replace while i'm replacing the stock muffler? Thinking mainly around the connection point to the section 2 pipes? New gaskets? Bolts/etc.? Any other tips you wish you knew in advance?

*Edit: is a kit like this recommended? Would this be missing anything worth replacing? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...18111719417kt/

I'd replace all bolts and nuts if they're original, as they'll probably be crusty (especially if the car ever saw adverse weather). Gaskets should be replaced every time (and FCP makes it feasible to actually do so). Here's some things I've learned after taking the muffler off a million times:

• Depending on how your car was driven and when the exhaust hardware was last removed, be prepared to potentially cut off/drill out some bolts (especially if it saw snow consistently). If any exhaust hardware is rusty, chances are the nuts holding the exhaust hangers to the body will be rusty as well, so it might be a good idea to get replacements for those.
• Because of the design of the stock muffler, it's really annoying to try to reach all nuts for the exhaust hangers with the rear bumper in place. I usually just take the bumper off if I'm removing the muffler, since it gives me way more access and only adds about 15 min of work.
• I'd check to see what RE's instructions have to say about this, but I've found (after reading about this on the old forum) that proper torque for the nuts that hold the hangers to the body is actually pretty important for controlling drone. They're torqued much lower than what I initially expected and I did see a positive change in nvh after going back and torquing them properly (i.e. not just pounding on them with an impact driver).

The kit you linked is pretty comprehensive, but I'd get all the parts from FCP so that you get lifetime warranty on everything and can replace them in the future without paying for new parts.

[keljos]

I'd replace all bolts and nuts if they're original, as they'll probably be crusty (especially if the car ever saw adverse weather). Gaskets should be replaced every time (and FCP makes it feasible to actually do so). Here's some things I've learned after taking the muffler off a million times:

• Depending on how your car was driven and when the exhaust hardware was last removed, be prepared to potentially cut off/drill out some bolts (especially if it saw snow consistently). If any exhaust hardware is rusty, chances are the nuts holding the exhaust hangers to the body will be rusty as well, so it might be a good idea to get replacements for those.
• Because of the design of the stock muffler, it's really annoying to try to reach all nuts for the exhaust hangers with the rear bumper in place. I usually just take the bumper off if I'm removing the muffler, since it gives me way more access and only adds about 15 min of work.
• I'd check to see what RE's instructions have to say about this, but I've found (after reading about this on the old forum) that proper torque for the nuts that hold the hangers to the body is actually pretty important for controlling drone. They're torqued much lower than what I initially expected and I did see a positive change in nvh after going back and torquing them properly (i.e. not just pounding on them with an impact driver).

The kit you linked is pretty comprehensive, but I'd get all the parts from FCP so that you get lifetime warranty on everything and can replace them in the future without paying for new parts.

Wonderful advice, thank you for the response. Will definitely source via FCP. I'm in the pacific northwest (as the car has been it's whole life) so fingers crossed the rust isn't horrific. Your thoughts on the torque specs for the hangers are super fascinating, it's possible I would have just tightened them up without thinking twice.

*Edit: Is the torque spec for the OEM hangers 22 Nm / 16.2 ft-lb ?

[heinzboehmer]

Wonderful advice, thank you for the response. Will definitely source via FCP. I'm in the pacific northwest (as the car has been it's whole life) so fingers crossed the rust isn't horrific. Your thoughts on the torque specs for the hangers are super fascinating, it's possible I would have just tightened them up without thinking twice.

*Edit: Is the torque spec for the OEM hangers 22 Nm / 16.2 ft-lb ?

Yeah I was super surprised when I re-torqued my hangers and it actually made a difference. The stock hangers are built with various layers of metal and rubber, so I guess overtorquing them thins out the rubber layers and causes more vibrations (and thus drone) to be transmitted to the chassis. The RE hangers seem to be of an all metal construction at the point where they meet the chassis, so that might not actually make a difference in your case. Still won't hurt to use a torque wrench.

Yes, torque spec for stock hangers is 22 Nm/16.2 ft-lb.