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    What's nice about FCPeuro is that they tell you if a part is genuine BMW, OE, OEM, or aftermarket.

    In your case, ULO is the OE part, just not sold by bmw as "genuine bmw"
    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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      My locks stopped working after I disconnected and reconnected the battery for my steering wheel install. I had a friend pull the codes and it is showing “GM: Central locking: fuse”. I replaced the fuse in the glove box and it is still busted. Is this code saying the gm5 module is toast? Or did I just replace the wrong fuse?



      Edit: I fixed it. Fuse 60 was blown, I didn’t realize that was a central locking fuse at first.
      Last edited by Bgexpress; 06-08-2021, 09:25 AM.

      Comment


        Originally posted by natty99 View Post
        Found some Wurth dry ptfe....at M car price 😵‍💫

        Comment


          Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
          What's nice about FCPeuro is that they tell you if a part is genuine BMW, OE, OEM, or aftermarket.

          In your case, ULO is the OE part, just not sold by bmw as "genuine bmw"
          I remember reading somewhere that if a part doesn't meet BMWs specific quality control, the OE manufacturer sometimes sells it on the side under their name. Is there any truth to that? Maybe I'm overthinking trying to save $50 over a genuine bmw part.
          Garage:
          2002 BMW M3: Slicktop jetblack/cinnamon. SMG to 6-speed. Arc-8's. Koni yellows/Dinan springs. Macht elbow. Megan headers. Stock section 1+AR20. SCZA section 3.
          1998 Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel: Pizza bag warmer.

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            I don't know about that. I would think it's contractual. X amount of years after production, the OEM (ULO) may sell the part as retail. And maybe only in situations where the OEM thinks it's profitable? Something often replaced.
            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
            More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

            Comment


              Two dumb questions.

              1. I have heard and read different theories regarding warm up and I'm sure you guys have come to a consensus. Warm up completely(ish) idling in driveway, gentle driving warm up or something else?

              2. Thoughts/experience/opinions on Motul 8100 X-power 10W60 motor oil?

              Comment


                Originally posted by chilone View Post
                1. I have heard and read different theories regarding warm up and I'm sure you guys have come to a consensus. Warm up completely(ish) idling in driveway, gentle driving warm up or something else?
                Let your idle settle and drive off gently. Keep driving gently until it's up to temp.
                2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                2012 Mazda5 6MT
                Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

                Comment


                  Originally posted by chilone View Post
                  Two dumb questions.

                  1. I have heard and read different theories regarding warm up and I'm sure you guys have come to a consensus. Warm up completely(ish) idling in driveway, gentle driving warm up or something else?

                  2. Thoughts/experience/opinions on Motul 8100 X-power 10W60 motor oil?
                  Regarding warm up you'll get different answers. Personally I let the car run for about a minute, maybe 2 then drive gently (under 3-4krpm) until completely up to temp. Some will say drive straight away (gently) due to having a mechanically driven oil pump, but I always found my car just doesn't feel happy straight away. Gearbox is not happy, has a bad raspy resonance just above 2.5krpm which I don't like. Very few would recommend leaving it to idle until it get up to temperature. Not only will it take like 15 minutes, but also you're running at essentially the minimum oil pressure while the car heats up. Not to mention nothing else on the car is really heating up at the same rate, tyres, gearbox, drivetrain etc.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by chilone View Post
                    Two dumb questions.

                    1. I have heard and read different theories regarding warm up and I'm sure you guys have come to a consensus. Warm up completely(ish) idling in driveway, gentle driving warm up or something else?

                    2. Thoughts/experience/opinions on Motul 8100 X-power 10W60 motor oil?
                    The owners manual suggests that you should simply start with gentle driving immediately upon startup.
                    2012 E92 M3 Competition - LeMans Blue / Speed Cloth - 6MT
                    [SOLD] 2004 E46 M3 Coupe - Carbon Black / Black - 6MT

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                      Gentle drive off, low revs and no mashing ever until oil temp (not water temp) past the first dot.

                      What's wrong with castrol?
                      2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

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                        Thanks for the info, guys! Nothing is wrong with Castrol. For me the Motul is a lot easier to get (I know, plan ahead, lol).

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                          Oil and filters are like deodorant and soap for me.

                          I don't wait until I'm out, I'll always have multiples of each on hand and always buy multiples.
                          2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

                          Comment


                            Tire Pressure Reset
                            I'm apparently not smart enough to get this done even after reading the manual. Tires were low, I inflated them back to 33F and 38R. Red light is on, not amber. Amber shows up when I press the reset button once. Still, I drive off and nothing changes. I hold the button again and it goes away. Eventually, as tires warm up the red light comes again.

                            please explain for dummies. Thanks

                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by CachacoE46 View Post
                              Tire Pressure Reset
                              I'm apparently not smart enough to get this done even after reading the manual. Tires were low, I inflated them back to 33F and 38R. Red light is on, not amber. Amber shows up when I press the reset button once. Still, I drive off and nothing changes. I hold the button again and it goes away. Eventually, as tires warm up the red light comes again.

                              please explain for dummies. Thanks
                              If I remember right, you have you have the key in position 2 (engine off) then hold the tps until light goes off. Press and hold again until amber light comes on then turn on the car and slowly drive and the light goes away

                              Comment


                                Thanks, will try again

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