Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[IamFODI]

I think the community consensus was that the lube would cause the rubber guides to swell up a bit and actually increase friction. No idea if that’s BS or not.

I experienced this on my previous car. AFAIK it happens with the most common types of brake lube. There are others, like Sil-Glyde, that are not supposed to have this effect.

Another allegation I've seen is that the grease attracts dirt. Yes it's supposed to be sealed in there, but... man, there's a LOT of brake dust flying around in that area, and I've seen people claim they've noticed things get grimy in there.

I also wonder if, to the extent an un-lubed pin in a rubber guide doesn't slide, the rubber will flex. Maybe the friction is carefully calibrated for some obscure reason (damping effects? smoothing out transitions in brake application?). That's pure speculation on my part.

[PSUEng]

I think the community consensus was that the lube would cause the rubber guides to swell up a bit and actually increase friction. No idea if that’s BS or not.

I did a brake job and installed everything dry--new bushings, pins--had problems. Pulled the pins, lubed with a Lithium soap grease (Toyota, actually) and no problems. Technically, the pins should be pulled every 3 years or so, cleaned, re-greased and re-installed. Maybe replace the bushings too. So, think the "no grease" is a "no <wrong> grease" kind of statement. Lithium soap grease won't swell the rubber. Pic below lifted from another forum, but this is what I used on my Lexus, and, the M3.

[Slideways]

I experienced this on my previous car. AFAIK it happens with the most common types of brake lube. There are others, like Sil-Glyde, that are not supposed to have this effect.

Another allegation I've seen is that the grease attracts dirt. Yes it's supposed to be sealed in there, but... man, there's a LOT of brake dust flying around in that area, and I've seen people claim they've noticed things get grimy in there.

I also wonder if, to the extent an un-lubed pin in a rubber guide doesn't slide, the rubber will flex. Maybe the friction is carefully calibrated for some obscure reason (damping effects? smoothing out transitions in brake application?). That's pure speculation on my part.

I have heard the dirt argument before. Honestly, if the pins are kept clean every brake service, that is all that is required. Lightly greasing with Sil-Glyde or other should be fine, but it'll have to be cleaned off during service and it can get messy depending on how much is used.

I'd follow the instructions. This feels similar to adding RTV to the entire perimeter of the valve cover gasket or oil pan gasket rather than only the locations specified in the instructions. It is just not necessary and makes a hell of a mess cleaning it up the next time a gasket needs to be serviced.

[Casa de Mesa]

I have always greased the pins on fixed calipers like the stock ones. Especially when used at the track.

However, one lesson I learned the hard way. Do not put grease on the tip/end of the pin. And especially don't glob it on like I used to. After a couple of cleanings and re-greasing, if you don't clean the caliper mount bore that the pin goes into, it leaves grease behind and will not allow the pin (and caliper) to compress all the way, leading to accelerated and uneven pad wear. So 1) only grease the sides on the pins and 2) make sure you get all the old grease out of the bores before reinstalling.

[nextlvel]

Pull codes.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/M1MNxggMn6GFmiR46

I made a link to the codes I have as well as a few photos of the pump and sending units. The sending unit hose attached pretty snuggly and did not just pop off when trying to remove it. However, the rubber o-ring did seem a little loose as you can see from the photos, but I don't think that would cause my issue.

The fuel pump carrier is the oem one, however the actual pump looks like it has been replaced as it doesn't have the original hose clamp and someone had definitely been into that side of the tank because the fuel pump lock ring was super easy to remove.

Okay now the codes, tank cap open is new and from when I removed the pump and sender, I believe that is solely because one of the lines I reinstalled may be loose. I drove the car and I could smell fuel in the cabin, so I will unfortunately have to remove the rear seats and double check.

Switch chain from my research is the clutch switch, as said earlier I am manual swapped, I think that may be because I have the EU clutch setting where you do not have to press the clutch to start the car enabled.
My cruise control however, does not work, it has not worked in my entire time owning the car. SO maybe there is something there? Not sure

Finally, activation fuel cylinder 6, this one was interesting to me, because it is somewhat of a vague code. My working theory (and please tell me if this is straight up not how it works) is that there is a fuel starvation issue, and due to the sixth cylinder being the last in the firing order, it's getting the short end of the stick per se at the fuel rail and not getting enough gas. Whether this be due to the fuel pump or the sender thus casing the fuel pump, I am not sure.

I did attach some live data in the pictures as well, the signal to all injectors seems stable so that's what makes the cylinder 6 code a bit odd. I also attached the data for the left and right side of the tank fuel levels but those also seem normal?

Let me know what you guys think

[Slideways]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/M1MNxggMn6GFmiR46

I made a link to the codes I have as well as a few photos of the pump and sending units. The sending unit hose attached pretty snuggly and did not just pop off when trying to remove it. However, the rubber o-ring did seem a little loose as you can see from the photos, but I don't think that would cause my issue.

The fuel pump carrier is the oem one, however the actual pump looks like it has been replaced as it doesn't have the original hose clamp and someone had definitely been into that side of the tank because the fuel pump lock ring was super easy to remove.

Okay now the codes, tank cap open is new and from when I removed the pump and sender, I believe that is solely because one of the lines I reinstalled may be loose. I drove the car and I could smell fuel in the cabin, so I will unfortunately have to remove the rear seats and double check.

Switch chain from my research is the clutch switch, as said earlier I am manual swapped, I think that may be because I have the EU clutch setting where you do not have to press the clutch to start the car enabled.
My cruise control however, does not work, it has not worked in my entire time owning the car. SO maybe there is something there? Not sure

Finally, activation fuel cylinder 6, this one was interesting to me, because it is somewhat of a vague code. My working theory (and please tell me if this is straight up not how it works) is that there is a fuel starvation issue, and due to the sixth cylinder being the last in the firing order, it's getting the short end of the stick per se at the fuel rail and not getting enough gas. Whether this be due to the fuel pump or the sender thus casing the fuel pump, I am not sure.

I did attach some live data in the pictures as well, the signal to all injectors seems stable so that's what makes the cylinder 6 code a bit odd. I also attached the data for the left and right side of the tank fuel levels but those also seem normal?

Let me know what you guys think

The stock M3 fuel pump has a blue top and a crimp-on hose clamp. My guess is the previous owner only replaced the pump, which might be available for the standard 3 series but not for the M3 (to my knowledge). To get the stock fuel pump, it only comes with the whole assembly.

[bavarian3]

Where are the service manuals for our car ? googled, ebayed it and only came up with a general e46 3 series model manual.

[Shonky]

Where are the service manuals for our car ? googled, ebayed it and only came up with a general e46 3 series model manual.

TIS is the manual. Newtis still works if you have an account but not sure if you can still sign up new.

Also Bentley for third party.

[Ubaderb]

What’s the range that the stock camber arms can achieve on a lowered car?

[bavarian3]

Another camber arm question. For those running aftermarket arms, what did you use to replace the eccentric bolt? or just reuse it?

[bavarian3]

TIS is the manual. Newtis still works if you have an account but not sure if you can still sign up new.

Also Bentley for third party.

TY. I was able to contact them to help me with access =)

[jayjaya29]

Another camber arm question. For those running aftermarket arms, what did you use to replace the eccentric bolt? or just reuse it?

You can reuse it if you want. But if you want a replacement, order the bolt and nut for the upper control arm to trailing arm.

[jayjaya29]

What is the part number for the fastener that attaches the windshield washer reservoir to the lower wheel well liner?

[mikeetastic]

does anyone know color codes for arc8? Are these hyper black? Or antracite? Not sure if there are markings or part numbers at the back of the rims either.

thanks all.

[jayjaya29]

Looks like anthracite to me. Hyper black is more shiny and reflective.