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    I'm going to be doing my brakes this coming week on a 200k overhaul, and i'm doing the following.

    -rebuild seals (don't see a reason to replace teh pistons)
    -replacing guides
    -already running srf/ss lines
    -painting calipers black.
    -adding speed bleeders

    Anything else I should be doing?

    also, what do you guys do to cap lines to stop my srf from leaking over a few days? 3/8s vaccum line cap?
    Last edited by L0okitzRaj; 07-08-2023, 09:04 PM.

    Comment


      Originally posted by L0okitzRaj View Post
      also, what do you guys do to cap lines to stop my srf from leaking over a few days? 3/8s vaccum line cap?
      I ordered these:
      https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Sil...dp/B00XYD2760/

      When I rebuilt / resprayed my car. Used them for all kinds of things:
      • Plugging fuel lines
      • Plugging holes in the engine so paint wouldn't get in threads
      • Plugging holes in the chassis where I didn't want paint
      • Plugging open power steering rack holes (because it was a rolling chassis)
      They have been immensely beneficial for the $9.95 I paid from Amazon.

      I also got something like this:
      https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Sil...dp/B00XYDFW8K/

      ...and in combination with the plugs, it's been an incredible combo to have on hand.

      Also, both of these are for the most part reusable. The only time I couldn't comfortably reuse the silicone plugs is when I sent a part to a get Cerakote covered and it went through their oven.

      EDIT: go toward the end of this post and you'll see the plugs above used in several places on the motor.
      Last edited by Casa de Mesa; 07-09-2023, 04:46 AM.
      Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

      Comment


        Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post

        I ordered these:
        https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Sil...dp/B00XYD2760/

        When I rebuilt / resprayed my car. Used them for all kinds of things:
        • Plugging fuel lines
        • Plugging holes in the engine so paint wouldn't get in threads
        • Plugging holes in the chassis where I didn't want paint
        • Plugging open power steering rack holes (because it was a rolling chassis)
        They have been immensely beneficial for the $9.95 I paid from Amazon.

        I also got something like this:
        https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Sil...dp/B00XYDFW8K/

        ...and in combination with the plugs, it's been an incredible combo to have on hand.

        Also, both of these are for the most part reusable. The only time I couldn't comfortably reuse the silicone plugs is when I sent a part to a get Cerakote covered and it went through their oven.

        EDIT: go toward the end of this post and you'll see the plugs above used in several places on the motor.
        Great tip. Thanks!

        Comment


          Shopping for steering rack boots...

          FEBI/Bilstein Apparently Made in Germany: $14
          Genuine BMW: 10x Febi.

          Is the FEBI really the same damn thing? This is crazy this kind of price difference. Dumb question, I know...

          Comment


            Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
            Shopping for steering rack boots...

            FEBI/Bilstein Apparently Made in Germany: $14
            Genuine BMW: 10x Febi.

            Is the FEBI really the same damn thing? This is crazy this kind of price difference. Dumb question, I know...
            I don’t think it’s the same thing, but it works well enough. I think I’ve had the febi boots on mine for like a decade now.

            Comment


              Does anyone have a write-up or easy to follow directions on how to replace a clutch switch module on an E46 M3? TIA! ✌

              Comment


                Originally posted by AtmosFearik View Post
                Does anyone have a write-up or easy to follow directions on how to replace a clutch switch module on an E46 M3? TIA! ✌
                I just did this: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...h-help-code-50

                You unscrew the couple of phillips screws holding the trim piece under the steering wheel and footwell (it's one big piece). Disconnect the ODB port and whatever else. Reach back there and fidget with the clutch switch until it comes loose (I think it's part magnetic? not sure). Get the wiring out and then slap the new one in. Super simple. I found folks doing it on youtube to help me figure it out.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by bagger View Post

                  I just did this: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...h-help-code-50

                  You unscrew the couple of phillips screws holding the trim piece under the steering wheel and footwell (it's one big piece). Disconnect the ODB port and whatever else. Reach back there and fidget with the clutch switch until it comes loose (I think it's part magnetic? not sure). Get the wiring out and then slap the new one in. Super simple. I found folks doing it on youtube to help me figure it out.
                  Cool thanks. I tried searching YouTube extensively for a video but couldn't find one that helped. If you can link me to the one that helped you, that would be awesome. Thanks bagger ✌🏾

                  Comment


                    What would be a "reasonable" price for a sunroof cassette now-a-days? Found out mine's cracked and searching for a local replacement, just not sure what I should expect

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by AtmosFearik View Post

                      Cool thanks. I tried searching YouTube extensively for a video but couldn't find one that helped. If you can link me to the one that helped you, that would be awesome. Thanks bagger ✌🏾
                      This is close enough and what I used just to give me an idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idlh0dzE4fc

                      There are three phillips screws, one plastic thing you need to turn near the gas pedal, and one clip you may need to pop off to the right of your leg when you have your foot on the pedal (assuming NA). There are two clips underneath the steering wheel. Just unscrew the three screws, deal with the two plastic parts, and it will fall right down. From there you can disconnect the whole thing by unplugging the ODB port. I didn't do this because I'm lazy and I could get my hand underneath there with the trim piece just dangling. Shine a light and you can't miss where the clutch switch is. Futz with it to get it loose from it's home, unplug it, and then reverse your steps and you're golden.

                      You really don't need super detailed stuff for this. Just take off the trim piece and you'll see how easy it is.

                      Comment


                        No idea where to ask this but here it goes.

                        Does anyone have any links or information about "un-rotating" an S54 or M54. I have an older Japanese car that I want to build a gnarly NA straight 6 for but don't really want to use a boat anchor 1/2jz.

                        For the engine to fit nicely, I'd need to have it at a 0-5degree angle rather than the traditional bmw 30 or 20 degrees. Id prefer not to use dry sump but it's not off the table.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by bagger View Post

                          This is close enough and what I used just to give me an idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idlh0dzE4fc

                          There are three phillips screws, one plastic thing you need to turn near the gas pedal, and one clip you may need to pop off to the right of your leg when you have your foot on the pedal (assuming NA). There are two clips underneath the steering wheel. Just unscrew the three screws, deal with the two plastic parts, and it will fall right down. From there you can disconnect the whole thing by unplugging the ODB port. I didn't do this because I'm lazy and I could get my hand underneath there with the trim piece just dangling. Shine a light and you can't miss where the clutch switch is. Futz with it to get it loose from it's home, unplug it, and then reverse your steps and you're golden.

                          You really don't need super detailed stuff for this. Just take off the trim piece and you'll see how easy it is.
                          Yup, it was a pretty straight forward job. Thanks for your help!

                          Comment


                            Is there a relay in the clutch safety switch? Or is there a separate part that I’m not finding? Finally got my car out of storage for the year, and all is well except for a loud relay clicking part way through clutch travel. Definitely a relay because it goes away with ignition off.

                            Comment


                              The EWS module sorta acts like a relay for the start interlock. I disabled mine years ago, but I'm pretty sure there was an audible click

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by terra View Post
                                The EWS module sorta acts like a relay for the start interlock. I disabled mine years ago, but I'm pretty sure there was an audible click
                                Thanks terra — yeah, could definitely be normal and I either forgot or never noticed. Seems like it’s not causing any problems so I’ll just ignore for now. I have no problem disabling EWS at this point if it turns out it’s the module and it’s failing.

                                Comment

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