Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[BigRussia]

No need. If you're holding the engine with a support bar from up top, then you can drop the subframe slightly and it'll make you life a lot easier.

Undo top nuts from the engine bay, go under the car and undo bottom nuts, drop subframe a bit, swap mounts, then do everything in reverse.

Thanks! Hmm but sound like dropping the front subframe may be just as much work or even more than unbolting the pita exhaust section 1 - 2 connections? I've never dropped the front subframe before so just assuming!

[heinzboehmer]

Thanks! Hmm but sound like dropping the front subframe may be just as much work or even more than unbolting the pita exhaust section 1 - 2 connections? I've never dropped the front subframe before so just assuming!

Ah, the trick is that you only need to lower the subframe a little, not fully remove it, so you can leave everything attached. Steering column will telescope out, PS lines have a decent amount of slack and control arms will just swing down with the subframe. So it's really only four extra bolts (the ones holding the subframe to the chassis) that you need to remove once you get the engine supported from the top.

[oceansize]

Heinz is right on but as a data point, I didn't do anything other than detach some stuff and lift from the top. I'm running RE section 1 should that matter.

[heinzboehmer]

Hmm, maybe it was because I was taking out aftermarket (VibraTechnics) engine mounts out, but I was unable to get the engine high enough to clear the studs on the mounts with the subframe in place. Totally possible that the aftermarket stuff has longer studs than the OE ones, didn't try installing the OE ones with the subframe in place.

Regardless, the lowering of the subframe is a good thing to keep in mind. Takes 30s if you've already got the engine supported, so worth doing if you run into any sort of struggle.


As a sidenote, lowering the subframe makes replacing control arms soooo much easier. Also allows you to actually get a torque wrench in there and torque the control arm to subframe ball joint.

[S54.sueño]

What are safe limits for coolant temp through an OBD App?

So maybe it's because of the heat we are having in socal but i have a whole brand new cooling system and the coolant temp needle will still approach the 2 o'clock mark (100C/212F from OBD App) under moderate load (Uphill never going past 3k rpm because I'm breaking in my rebuilt engine) even with AC off.
Once I start going back downhill and let it coast, temps settle back down to 93C/200F according to app.

I'm concerned because before I blew the engine, i would be able to run the AC on hot days and the needle would never budge past 12 o'clock.

I just finished rebleeding my CSF radiator per Bimmerworlds website and also swapped a new clutch fan that i was gonna install on my 330i. I'll update to see if that improved anything. And yes the aux fan is working as well.
I have a spal fan laying around that i bought but never got to installing it, wonder if that would work better.
Thanks!

Edit: So it hit 100C again while going uphill but i did have the AC on. I was using INPA this time and for the most part, the inlet and outlet temps were 20C apart. Without the AC temps stayed at 93C in city driving. Although that may be because ambient temps weren't as high as they were the last few days.

[nyc951]

Are CSL headers and Section 1 still produced by BMW? If so, which retailer can send them to the US?

(flamesuit partially on)

[Cubieman]

Are CSL headers and Section 1 still produced by BMW? If so, which retailer can send them to the US?

(flamesuit partially on)

Apmotorsport.co.uk had them available for sale, but this was ~3 years ago.
Their website makes you look at about every page for a given platform as nothing is really organized all that well, worth a look.


EDIT:

I have a request, could someone take a quick photo of their windshield wipers/windshield, I took my wipers off and marked the metal busings, the bushings then came out of the wipers, I think I've got them close but a photo of the factory setup would be helpful.

[BMWE46M3]

I had the same problem with my wipers when I removed them so this may not be in line with the factory setup, but I hope it helps you.

[BMWE46M3]

Crap, the others didn’t load so here you go.

[AWE46M3]

I have an 09 Rav4 and may have a deal for a full interior in mint condition. Will a full interior fit in the back of this Rav4?

[Cubieman]

Are there any non-genuine headlight lenses worth buying or is BMW the only way go?

[Slideways]

Are there any non-genuine headlight lenses worth buying or is BMW the only way go?

Bosch and AL used to be good options, but they don't seem to be offered anymore.

Uro branded parts are usually classified as being lesser quality than OE, but it might be worth the hassle to order both genuine and Uro from ECS, compare and return the Uros if they do not match genuine units. Judging by the ECS pictures, the markings look the same and neither is stamped with Bosch or AL like the old ones. They could all be from the same manufacturer now.

[Cubieman]

Is there some clever way to download the an entire section of realoem or newtis other than going page by page and sreenshoting/convert>PDF?

I know that ISTA/DIS have newtis and realoem still has older cars in the classic section but if there was some way to download say the E46 M3 section as a whole from realoem or newtis that would be great.

I'd love to have "real" copies, who knows when they may remove information for older vehicles and/or restrict website access.

If not I may just take have to slowly take a page at a time until I have it all saved, especially realoem.

[Shonky]

Is there some clever way to download the an entire section of realoem or newtis other than going page by page and sreenshoting/convert>PDF?

I know that ISTA/DIS have newtis and realoem still has older cars in the classic section but if there was some way to download say the E46 M3 section as a whole from realoem or newtis that would be great.

I'd love to have "real" copies, who knows when they may remove information for older vehicles and/or restrict website access.

If not I may just take have to slowly take a page at a time until I have it all saved, especially realoem.

Also interested. I like that both have fast lightweight interfaces when you're jumping around although that's mostly because TIS in particular is kind disjointed IMO.

You can get off line versions of TIS and the parts one (EPC?) which presumably is the source for Newtis and RealOEM.

What's wrong with ISTA (besides much slower)?

I don't think taking pages of TIS one by one is practical.

[Cubieman]

Also interested. I like that both have fast lightweight interfaces when you're jumping around although that's mostly because TIS in particular is kind disjointed IMO.

You can get off line versions of TIS and the parts one (EPC?) which presumably is the source for Newtis and RealOEM.

What's wrong with ISTA (besides much slower)?

I don't think taking pages of TIS one by one is practical.

Agreed, NEWTIS would be a pain, relaoem is more what I am after save some engine internals type into from TIS.
I would just love to have 2 folders TIS/RealOEM, open those up and have them organized like the website for quick access to useful info that is not reliant on website access/servers that can take a dump etc.

I think I'll start with realOEM and convert to PDF or something of the like so text can be copied/pasted and maybe even made searchable.
For now it's just going to have to be one page at a time, very time consuming.

Edit: Where/what is EPC?