If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
*** The datacenter where this server is so graciously hosted is going to be doing power maintenance. During this maintenance, I will be shutting down this server and nam3forum will be completely offline.
Start: 6/1/2024 12:00pm PST (Saturday around noon)
End: 6/2/2024 12:00pm PST (Sunday around noon)
I have a question about a car sitting fir a long time.
I would like to finally start on my long maintenance list: valve adjustment, Beisan Vanos rebuild, rod bearings, suspension refresh.
The issue is that, sadly, my M3 has been sitting in a garage (heated) for 2 years now. I left minimum fuel in the tank and added fuel stabilizer, but I'm guessing its effect is long gone.
My question is: do I tackle my maintenance list and then deal with fuel when I attempt to start it sometime next spring?
OR will it be an issue and I should do something about it now? Such as trying to start it, run it idle till empty and refill some fresh fuel with stabilizer etc.?
It would be a hassle taking it out to do this now, which is why I'm hoping to hear that it will be fine and I should just press on with the tasks ahead.
Thanks!
It is typically recommended to keep the tank topped up for long term storage. If it is possible to fill the car at a gas station and then take it for a long drive to get everything fully up to temp, that might be the best way to store the car for another 6 months. If not, you can always do it in 6 months when you are done with the work. It is a modern car and it should start just fine on old fuel.
A bad thing to do would be to start it and let it idle without driving it.
It is typically recommended to keep the tank topped up for long term storage. If it is possible to fill the car at a gas station and then take it for a long drive to get everything fully up to temp, that might be the best way to store the car for another 6 months. If not, you can always do it in 6 months when you are done with the work. It is a modern car and it should start just fine on old fuel.
A bad thing to do would be to start it and let it idle without driving it.
Thank you.
Yes, all the years I have stored it over winter, I always did it with a full tank and stabilizer. It is in a garage that is mostly closed in winter and never below 10C, so I don't think there is a big risk of condensation as in a cold or outdoor storage place.
This time around, I chose to let the tank run low as I thought it may be off the street for a year as I tackle the maintenance. Life got in the way and here I am.
Taking it for a drive is not an option at this point as the roads are now salted around here and it has never seen salt plus the registration amd insurance ran out too.
I think this is a dumb question - I'm Interested in installing a wideband with a gauge. Can anyone recommend a gauge that has an oem look? I've seen some custom fabs with the gauges installed in the air vents, something like that would be cool. Thanks!
2003.5 BMW M3 Carbon Schwarz Metallic/Cinnamon 6 Speed – HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | AA Headers | AA Section 1 | SS Resonated Section 2 | SS Race Section 3 | TMS V2 CSL Airbox | TMS Street Plates | Ohlin’s R&T Coilovers | Ground Control Front and Rear Sways | Ground Control Adjustable Camber Arms | DMG Autosport Pro46R | FreakyParts BBK Front | Porsche 996 Conversion Rear | CMP Stage 1 + 1.5 Reinforcement Plates | CMP Subframe Bushings | CMP RTAB’s | SGT CSL Bumper | SGT CSL Trunk | Dr VANOS
I think this is a dumb question - I'm Interested in installing a wideband with a gauge. Can anyone recommend a gauge that has an oem look? I've seen some custom fabs with the gauges installed in the air vents, something like that would be cool. Thanks!
I need to buy a really long drill bit, and a circle saw bit, like what you’d use to instal a Vince Bar or gusset cups. Best place to get these online and quickly? Getting ready to do a rear 6-point brace instal. Yurkan provides instructions to measure and do it all from the top, but TBH it looks like it would be easier (since my subframe is coming out anyway) to drill a pilot hole from the bottom, through the subframe mounting bolt hole, then use a circle saw with a guide bit from the top to get the holes in the right place. Also I think that will be cleaner looking.
I push the clutch pedal down and it squeaks (audible from inside car, when car is off); actual running operation (clutch operation/gear changing) is fine. What to do? I swear I even may have asked this before, or someone did; I searched, but nothing. Seems like a simple lube somewhere, just looking for a head start on where if anyone knows!
I tried to install a stock dipstick tube (unbent) and can't seem to make it clear the CSL airbox, I have read numerous times how some people aren't bending it but simply rotating it out of the way.
If someone has any tips on routing or something I am missing that would be greatly appreciated.
Mine just pushes off the wiring harness/black plastic box and contacts the airbox, it also seems to interfere with the heater valve/hoses a bit as well.
I am trying to switch out my modified (bent) tube I originally used as it still touches the box and is somewhat kinked as well.
I tried to install a stock dipstick tube (unbent) and can't seem to make it clear the CSL airbox, I have read numerous times how some people aren't bending it but simply rotating it out of the way.
If someone has any tips on routing or something I am missing that would be greatly appreciated.
Mine just pushes off the wiring harness/black plastic box and contacts the airbox, it also seems to interfere with the heater valve/hoses a bit as well.
I am trying to switch out my modified (bent) tube I originally used as it still touches the box and is somewhat kinked as well.
You'll have to bend it around a bit for it to clear. Its easy.
I tried to install a stock dipstick tube (unbent) and can't seem to make it clear the CSL airbox, I have read numerous times how some people aren't bending it but simply rotating it out of the way.
If someone has any tips on routing or something I am missing that would be greatly appreciated.
Mine just pushes off the wiring harness/black plastic box and contacts the airbox, it also seems to interfere with the heater valve/hoses a bit as well.
I am trying to switch out my modified (bent) tube I originally used as it still touches the box and is somewhat kinked as well.
Mine is ziptied to the wiring conduit. It's enough that it just clears the strut bar and doesn't touch the airbox.
"your BMW has how many miles!?"
2003 (2/03) M3 coupe Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ RS One 450/550 - Ground Control Street - SDW RTAB - TMS Street ARCA - Redish V2 - TMS solid subframe bushings - Volk Racing G2 18x9.5 - StopTech ST40 355 (coming soon) - Beisan Systems VANOS parts - WPC OE rod bearings - Karbonius CSL airbox - Kassel MSS54HP DME - Kassel MAP sensor - Euro headers and Section 1 - SuperSprint Sport - Recaro Speed - Schroth Rallye 4 QF - AS 30% SSK
Ok this is a pretty dumb/noob question but I'm getting real confused about the rear suspension of the E46 M3. If I am told that I need rear adjustable camber arms, would those "camber arms" be replacing an existing suspension component(s) or would they be an additional component that is added onto the cars rear suspension? I believe adjustable camber arms would be replacing the rear trailing arm(s) but I'm not sure.
Ok this is a pretty dumb/noob question but I'm getting real confused about the rear suspension of the E46 M3. If I am told that I need rear adjustable camber arms, would those "camber arms" be replacing an existing suspension component(s) or would they be an additional component that is added onto the cars rear suspension? I believe adjustable camber arms would be replacing the rear trailing arm(s) but I'm not sure.
It is an existing component that is being replaced with one that has more adjustment. The rear trailing arm is a different component.
It is an existing component that is being replaced with one that has more adjustment. The rear trailing arm is a different component.
Ok that makes sense. So then adjustable camber arms would be replacing one of the control arms right? My understanding is there are 3 arms in the rear on each side, the trailing arm, upper control arm, and lower control arm. So I assume one of the two control arms are being replaced but I’m not clear on which one.
Ok that makes sense. So then adjustable camber arms would be replacing one of the control arms right? My understanding is there are 3 arms in the rear on each side, the trailing arm, upper control arm, and lower control arm. So I assume one of the two control arms are being replaced but I’m not clear on which one.
The upper one holds the spring, so hopefully whoever's recommending this mod to you is talking about the lower one.
2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL
Trying to detemine the correct way to torque this rear swaybar.
Athough there's no specifics in the TIS i'm seeing conflicting guidance on it needing to be under load, or alternatively full droop(but leveled). The end-links are not balljoints so I'm thinking they would need to be at load.
Comment