Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Cubieman]

Has anyone had their throttle body actuator fail on them?

Wondered about this as well, you hear about it often on E9x M3's/E6x M5/6's.

[ugaexploder]

Wondered about this as well, you hear about it often on E9x M3's/E6x M5/6's.

Glad they seem to be fairly reliable as I haven't found many threads on people having issues online. It's pretty scary as I noticed it's pretty expensive through FCP, but a little bit cheaper through Schmiedmann.

[Slideways]

Glad they seem to be fairly reliable as I haven't found many threads on people having issues online. It's pretty scary as I noticed it's pretty expensive through FCP, but a little bit cheaper through Schmiedmann.

My guess is the S65/85 are more prone to failure due to their location inside the V of the engine where things can get pretty hot. Either that or the internal components are different from the S54 throttle actuator. For the S54, I would not hesitate to replace with a used, good working unit since they are pretty reliable and easy to access.

[ugaexploder]

That makes sense...main reason I was thinking about some of these components under plenum is I'm mapping out what items I should replace when doing the Karb box. Mainly because I don't want to remove and install the plenum a bunch of times.

How resilient is the Karb plenum? Mainly connection points and the little cable holder near the firewall?

Part of me wants to replace everything under the plenum so I don't have to remove it frequently and possibly break things when doing so. Is this an irrational thought process?

[Slideways]

That makes sense...main reason I was thinking about some of these components under plenum is I'm mapping out what items I should replace when doing the Karb box. Mainly because I don't want to remove and install the plenum a bunch of times.

How resilient is the Karb plenum? Mainly connection points and the little cable holder near the firewall?

Part of me wants to replace everything under the plenum so I don't have to remove it frequently and possibly break things when doing so. Is this an irrational thought process?

It's a solid piece and there is no issue removing it multiple times. The beauty of servicing the S54 is the full intake system is easy to remove compared to other BMWs. I wouldn't replace a thing under it. Maybe you can swap the TPS if the one near the oil filter is newer than the one on the throttle actuator.

[ugaexploder]

It's a solid piece and there is no issue removing it multiple times. The beauty of servicing the S54 is the full intake system is easy to remove compared to other BMWs. I wouldn't replace a thing under it. Maybe you can swap the TPS if the one near the oil filter is newer than the one on the throttle actuator.

Curious, but what did you go with for boots and clamps? I bought the turner silicon ones, then returned them and ordered the OE boots and clamps...

[Slideways]

Curious, but what did you go with for boots and clamps? I bought the turner silicon ones, then returned them and ordered the OE boots and clamps...

Found a good set of boots off a used SMG intake lol. Even was able to reuse the one time use clamps on the intake side since they can be bent back with a little heat and pliers. The Norma worm clamps are also an option if you don't want to use the original clamps and buy the ear clamp tool. For the worm clamps, you have to tighten them snug to the point where the boot still can rotate a small amount, just don't go crazy tight.

[fourmula1]

Intermittent crank. Airbag light on. Windows aren't fully closing when door closes. White noise from speakers with power on engine off.

Battery died and airbag light appeared around the same time, replaced battery. Car was fine this morning. Went back out and wouldn’t turn over.

There was an ews immobilizer fault, but it cleared.

Help would be much appreciated. Definitely seems electrical in nature.

[fourmula1]

Intermittent crank. Airbag light on. Windows aren't fully closing when door closes. White noise from speakers with power on engine off.

Battery died and airbag light appeared around the same time, replaced battery. Car was fine this morning. Went back out and wouldn’t turn over.

There was an ews immobilizer fault, but it cleared.

Help would be much appreciated. Definitely seems electrical in nature.

Also DME 50 switch chain frictional connection

[ugaexploder]

Intermittent crank. Airbag light on. Windows aren't fully closing when door closes. White noise from speakers with power on engine off.

Battery died and airbag light appeared around the same time, replaced battery. Car was fine this morning. Went back out and wouldn’t turn over.

There was an ews immobilizer fault, but it cleared.

Help would be much appreciated. Definitely seems electrical in nature.

smg to 6spd conversion?

[fourmula1]

Also DME 50 switch chain frictional connection

Yes, so that might always be there? I do have a good brown clutch switch off my race car in it.

I'm able to fire it up now when stomping on the clutch pedal and hitting the clutch stop. I pulled the stop and slowly went past where the stop would have been and it fired up. I'm thinking it was just barely seeing it and maybe the heat exacerbated it.

Still trying to figure out the airbag light and codes.

[ugaexploder]

Yeah, I think the DME 50 switch chain frictional connection is smg-to-6spd based possibly...

The airbag codes, I believe it may be a bad srs module. Not sure if these fail NC which may be causing a draw while the car is off? Totally a guess here.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/157698-airbag-light-srs-module-bad

[DJAM3]

Tried to bleed the brakes with a Motive pressure bleeder. Under pressure, brake fluid started dripping to the ground. It looked like it was coming out of the vacuum port on the booster. What would cause this? Bad master cylinder seal? Too much pressure? I usually go to 15psi but I wasn't paying attention and went to 20psi. Ended up vacuum bleeding the brakes and there are no leaks under normal use.

[duracellttu]

Tried to bleed the brakes with a Motive pressure bleeder. Under pressure, brake fluid started dripping to the ground. It looked like it was coming out of the vacuum port on the booster. What would cause this? Bad master cylinder seal? Too much pressure? I usually go to 15psi but I wasn't paying attention and went to 20psi. Ended up vacuum bleeding the brakes and there are no leaks under normal use.

Too much pressure and you blew through the seals. Just use lower pressure next time and you will be okay.

[fourmula1]

Too much pressure and you blew through the seals. Just use lower pressure next time and you will be okay.

I have the same bleeder and usually use 12.5psi. Sometimes close to 15, never exceeding 15. Never have any issues and it is on a race car.