Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Cubieman]

Bumper mounting drama.

2004 M3. Front bumper was a little misaligned so I took it off to re-fit. Discovered the four mounting studs (part #17) that screw into the carbon crash bar were missing. Odd?
Ordered those. Installed them with the spacers on the middle two, no spacers on the outer two.
Bumper goes on, fits well, but will not click into any of the four studs with any reasonable amount of force. I feel like I'm going to start doing damage if I press harder.
I lightly sanded them to take off the very slight edges from production, gave them some light grease. Still no go.
Grease marks on the bumper sockets line up enough that some of them should go, but no.
Tried to press the stud into the bumper socket on it's own and it won't go.

Anyone else experience this? Is the culprit just the 20yo rubber not flexing at all?
Thinking about taking ~1mm off the studs so they slip in easier. As is, they are 15mm OD on the studs and 12.5mm id for the receiving socket.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/de/showp...diagId=51_4734

Maybe you are having issues with the "tabs" many people need to remove.


Edit: I see this is not a replacement bumper, still check it out.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/144903-weird-genuine-euro-m3-front-bumper

[Darbshaw]

For a track only car, smg to manual swap (ZF 5Spd)

Instead of properly wiring in the clutch switch, is there anything harmful being done by decoding the “Engine Start only in park or neutral gear”? From the EWS

This allows the engine to start without wiring the switch. I don't have a need for cruise control, but am I potentially missing on other requirements by side stepping the wiring?

[Keith_MN]

Bumper mounting drama.

2004 M3. Front bumper was a little misaligned so I took it off to re-fit. Discovered the four mounting studs (part #17) that screw into the carbon crash bar were missing. Odd?
Ordered those. Installed them with the spacers on the middle two, no spacers on the outer two.
Bumper goes on, fits well, but will not click into any of the four studs with any reasonable amount of force. I feel like I'm going to start doing damage if I press harder.
I lightly sanded them to take off the very slight edges from production, gave them some light grease. Still no go.
Grease marks on the bumper sockets line up enough that some of them should go, but no.
Tried to press the stud into the bumper socket on it's own and it won't go.

Anyone else experience this? Is the culprit just the 20yo rubber not flexing at all?
Thinking about taking ~1mm off the studs so they slip in easier. As is, they are 15mm OD on the studs and 12.5mm id for the receiving socket.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/de/showp...diagId=51_4734

Took them down to about 14mm and that seems to have done the trick. Bumper is on and aligned well. I think it's likely just the age of the rubber that gave me issues.

[ephilthy6]

Located in California - SMOG related questions. Dumb question and I did some googling but couldn't find anything related to Martyn's MSS5x software.
If I used it for example enable shift lights I understand that modifying even something as small as that will fail smog.

I also understand that when using the MSS5x binary modification tool you take a backup.
If I just loaded that backup, is it to my understanding that that would allow me to pass smog?

[L0okitzRaj]

Located in California - SMOG related questions. Dumb question and I did some googling but couldn't find anything related to Martyn's MSS5x software.
If I used it for example enable shift lights I understand that modifying even something as small as that will fail smog.

I also understand that when using the MSS5x binary modification tool you take a backup.
If I just loaded that backup, is it to my understanding that that would allow me to pass smog?

You will pass with the shift lights that were added using Martyns tool.

I’ve passed multiple times with edited stuff. I actually edit my stuff using that tool in order to pass smog.


No need to swap back to original unless you turned off the cold start procedure. (That will turn off the SAP and flag the smog system)

[davidinnyc]

Okay -

I have two M3s (currently) and they’re both SMG. 6MT LSB on the way tomorrow.

Jet Black M3 sport mode button on my standard, unadulterated M3 is “jumpy” and feels fine. Throttle response is great with it on. With sport mode off, the car just trudges along calmly.

Imola Red M3 went through an MSS54HP CSL DME swap as well as a Karbonius airbox. I don’t remember whether I had any issues with sport mode before the swap, but sport mode now feels nothing like the Jet Black. Does the CSL DME have a less jumpy sport mode map? Could it feel weaker because of a bad throttle position sensor? Bad pedal sensor? Throttle bodies getting blocked by clamps?

David

[karter16]

Okay -

I have two M3s (currently) and they're both SMG. 6MT LSB on the way tomorrow.

Jet Black M3 sport mode button on my standard, unadulterated M3 is “jumpy” and feels fine. Throttle response is great with it on. With sport mode off, the car just trudges along calmly.

Imola Red M3 went through an MSS54HP CSL DME swap as well as a Karbonius airbox. I don't remember whether I had any issues with sport mode before the swap, but sport mode now feels nothing like the Jet Black. Does the CSL DME have a less jumpy sport mode map? Could it feel weaker because of a bad throttle position sensor? Bad pedal sensor? Throttle bodies getting blocked by clamps?

David

What tune do you have? Was the sport pedal curve modified at the same time do you know?

I'd check whether the curves are the same between the two cars (presuming you haven't already)


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[davidinnyc]

What tune do you have? Was the sport pedal curve modified at the same time do you know?

I'd check whether the curves are the same between the two cars (presuming you haven't already)


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Just the CSL software from Kassel Performance. I have no idea if the sport pedal curve was modified… whatever the standard CSL software would have I imagine!

Stupid question: how do I check the curves?

[karter16]

Just the CSL software from Kassel Performance. I have no idea if the sport pedal curve was modified… whatever the standard CSL software would have I imagine!

Stupid question: how do I check the curves?

Sweet - I'll check when I get home from work if there's any difference between the two stock tunes - will post a quick how to as well (can't remember the names of the curves offhand)


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[karter16]

Just the CSL software from Kassel Performance. I have no idea if the sport pedal curve was modified… whatever the standard CSL software would have I imagine!

Stupid question: how do I check the curves?

curves are the same between my stock euro tune (1901) and stock CSL tune (0401).

1901


0401


I'd say it would be worth checking the tune on your Jet Black to see if the curve has been modified at all. I presume too that you're saying it's the sport map specifically that feels flat on the Imola? e.g. if you're running a stock CSL tune on a normal S54 with just a CSL airbox the throttle is going to feel less responsive and torque-y either way down low - could that be some of it?

To check the tune on your jet black you'd need to read off a partial (tune) and then open it in TunerPro using the correct XDF for whatever version of the software is on your DME. The curve you're looking for is KL_PWG_SOLL_SPORT as in my screenshot above.

[Tbonem3]

open it in TunerPro using the correct XDF for whatever version of the software is on your DM The curve you're looking for is KL_PWG_SOLL_SPORT as in my screenshot above.

How would you know which one?

[karter16]

How would you know which one?

This thread (https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...me-information) is a good place to start. Essentially once you've got the the partial read off you can check a known memory location with a hex editor to get the version.

To quote that post: "Version Information is taken from the .0DA binary itself, 0x7FB8 for the MSS54, and 0xBFB8 for the MSS54HP, and is 56 bytes long".

If you want an easier way to do it I *think* that the ECUWorx tool lets you check the throttle curves.

[davidinnyc]

curves are the same between my stock euro tune (1901) and stock CSL tune (0401).

1901


0401


I'd say it would be worth checking the tune on your Jet Black to see if the curve has been modified at all. I presume too that you're saying it's the sport map specifically that feels flat on the Imola? e.g. if you're running a stock CSL tune on a normal S54 with just a CSL airbox the throttle is going to feel less responsive and torque-y either way down low - could that be some of it?

To check the tune on your jet black you'd need to read off a partial (tune) and then open it in TunerPro using the correct XDF for whatever version of the software is on your DME. The curve you're looking for is KL_PWG_SOLL_SPORT as in my screenshot above.

Yes, that’s what I’m feeling. Imola Red has the stock CSL tune + airbox and feels less responsive under 4K RPMs and if I “blip” the pedal I don’t get that snappy, torque-y response with the sport button on like I do with the stock Jet Black.

I’m plugging in both cars tonight when I have a moment to check the curves! Thank you for the steps!

[karter16]

Yes, that's what I'm feeling. Imola Red has the stock CSL tune + airbox and feels less responsive under 4K RPMs and if I “blip” the pedal I don't get that snappy, torque-y response with the sport button on like I do with the stock Jet Black.

I'm plugging in both cars tonight when I have a moment to check the curves! Thank you for the steps!

I think that's probably the result of running the stock CSL tune. With standard cams and exhaust valves the stock CSL tune isn't great for drivability and suffers from what you're describing. I noticed a big difference between stock CSL and where I ended up with my tune after a few revisions (I have built my own tune along similar lines to what Bryson has done).


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