Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Keith_MN]

I've been struggling with an Autosolutions SSK installation. Finally got the shift arm carrier inside the transmission ears and it looks to me like it's 99% aligned but the pin won't go in. Any tips to get the last 1% adjustment?

I did as well. I believe what got it done was massaging two pry bars. One between the tunnel and the pin to create pressure on the pin. Another wiggling underneath, above, etc to get the end of the pin to line up with the trans. I found that mine needed to be tweaked to set it. Few hundred miles on it now, feels great.

[DJAM3]

I'm at the point where I'm thinking about putting in a smaller pin and calling it good 😆

[Keith_MN]

I'm at the point where I'm thinking about putting in a smaller pin and calling it good 😆

If it makes you feel better, I did struggle with it for quite a long time. I actually forgot, I did give the end of the pin some additional beveling in an effort to get it fully seated. Not sure if that helped, the lightbulb moment for me was that it popped in when I torqued the pin at an angle more than I expected. A little grease always helps too.

[Darbshaw]

The pedal has two position sensors in it, one that measures a 0-5V range and the other measures a 0-2.5V range. The DME compares the readings from the two to ensure that they both agree on the position of the pedal.

When you swapped the pedal did you do the adaption/learning process? as I think the DME has to learn the ranges the new pedal is reporting.

Second thing would be to look at the actual values the DME is seeing from those two sensors and see whether it's that they're not quite aligning, or no signal at all from one of them (could point to wiring issue), etc.

I haven't done the adaptation process for the new pedal yet.

Do you know the process for this? Or is it just resetting adaptations? (I'm going to google after posting)

I did test the wiring harness for proper voltage and ground. All the pins did their parts, so I'm ruling out wiring unless you all feel otherwise. I need to get real jumper pins so I can get the multimeter in the back end of the plug before I can test plugged in. I'll see what Amazon has to offer in the meantime

As for the EML itself. The light will be intermittent and then came back on today after a few minutes of idle.

[karter16]

I haven't done the adaptation process for the new pedal yet.

Do you know the process for this? Or is it just resetting adaptations? (I'm going to google after posting)

I did test the wiring harness for proper voltage and ground. All the pins did their parts, so I'm ruling out wiring unless you all feel otherwise. I need to get real jumper pins so I can get the multimeter in the back end of the plug before I can test plugged in. I'll see what Amazon has to offer in the meantime

As for the EML itself. The light will be intermittent and then came back on today after a few minutes of idle.

Just had a check and confirmed:

- zero point adaption happens during the pre-drive check every time you start the car.
- 100% point adaption happens in the followup (period of time after the car is switched off after driving) if one of the following is true (virgin DME, EGAS/EDK adaptions cleared).

So yes - clear the EGAS/EDK adaptions and it should happen next time you turn the car off. (it can also be triggered over DS2, but clearing adaptions seems like an easier solution)


Also fwiw if you have an OBD2 cable you can use MSS54 DS2 Tool to both clear the adaptions and read the live values the DME is receiving from the pedal.

[bavarian3]

Can anyone tell what manufacturer date my pump is? Grok thinks it's a 2019 year

[Slideways]

Can anyone tell what manufacturer date my pump is? Grok thinks it's a 2019 year

Stamp shows 11.00, so November 2000

Under the electrical connector, it should have the week of the year and the year.

Not really in AI's wheelhouse.