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    Picked up a carbon black shell 🤙🏽





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      Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

      That’s too bad about the seat heaters, that was key for me .. when I was looking into it I didn’t see any way to use an aftermarket one with the center console three setting button. You need some kind of thermistor temperature sensor as a third signal from one of the heaters so the controller knows how to switch them. Probably could salvage yours if you don’t care about keeping factory seats intact.

      I did opt to use my original sliders and the bk brackets that bolt up to them, and made the wiring harness out of used ones.

      This is the only pic I have at the moment ,..

      Click image for larger version

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      That's unfortunate as I definitely do not want to pull apart my factory seats and it sounds like a legitimate generic setup is not very easily attainable. I'll have to look into this more, being in Nebraska those seat heats are a must for me.
      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
      Instagram

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        Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

        That's unfortunate as I definitely do not want to pull apart my factory seats and it sounds like a legitimate generic setup is not very easily attainable. I'll have to look into this more, being in Nebraska those seat heats are a must for me.
        Same here, being in New England I really wanted to retain them. You can use the E39 heaters plug and play by the way which are available new still, that’s what I sent to Cobra. Just not sure how to get them into the new seat pads.

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          Ponied up the damage from a misadventure. Had heard some creaks etc (more so than usual) from the front right suspension, so Friday AM I made sure the camber plate bolts and the wheel nuts were torqued down, the tires had the right air pressure, etc. Driving home from work i was about a mile from home and hit a smallish pothole, but -something- let go in the front suspension. my steering was out of wack, and the car seemed to lean down and to the right. I pulled over as quick as i could thinking perhaps i blew a tire, but it was arguably worse than that. Instead of having ~-2 degrees of camber, I had something like -20!!! Since i was so close to home, and the tire only rubbed when I made a tight(ish) turn, i decided to carefully limp back to my garage. Once there i popped the hood not knowing what to expect (camber plate busted?) only to find the nut that holds the strut up in the camber plate laying on top of the plate, along with the lock washer. The strut was somewhere down in the shock tower.

          Fast forward to today...i finally got it up on the jack, and started to survey the damage. Amazingly enough, it wasn't that bad. The adapter that sits on the spring perch and feeds into the camber plate's spherical bearing was gone, but the spring perch was sitting right on top of the spring. The threads on the strut weren't even damaged, nor was the adjustment teat and the spring perch itself and its bearing appear scratched but otherwise OK. I didn't see anywhere the strut had pierced the strut tower thank goodness...i suspect the spring perch wedged itself in the shock tower and held the strut in place there. So...i need to order another spring perch if i can't get the missing part. Just so I could put everything back together and roll it around the driveway and garage I 3D printed a rough copy of the missing part and used that for the time being. If i had an engineering plastic like carbon-reinforced nylon or delrin I might have looked into whether that would be sufficient for some short trips....but that'll be an adventure for another day. Lesson learned....don't forget to check that strut nut, and use nylock nuts instead of a split washer and regular nut.

          Comment


            Originally posted by M3Bob View Post
            Ponied up the damage from a misadventure. Had heard some creaks etc (more so than usual) from the front right suspension, so Friday AM I made sure the camber plate bolts and the wheel nuts were torqued down, the tires had the right air pressure, etc. Driving home from work i was about a mile from home and hit a smallish pothole, but -something- let go in the front suspension. my steering was out of wack, and the car seemed to lean down and to the right. I pulled over as quick as i could thinking perhaps i blew a tire, but it was arguably worse than that. Instead of having ~-2 degrees of camber, I had something like -20!!! Since i was so close to home, and the tire only rubbed when I made a tight(ish) turn, i decided to carefully limp back to my garage. Once there i popped the hood not knowing what to expect (camber plate busted?) only to find the nut that holds the strut up in the camber plate laying on top of the plate, along with the lock washer. The strut was somewhere down in the shock tower.

            Fast forward to today...i finally got it up on the jack, and started to survey the damage. Amazingly enough, it wasn't that bad. The adapter that sits on the spring perch and feeds into the camber plate's spherical bearing was gone, but the spring perch was sitting right on top of the spring. The threads on the strut weren't even damaged, nor was the adjustment teat and the spring perch itself and its bearing appear scratched but otherwise OK. I didn't see anywhere the strut had pierced the strut tower thank goodness...i suspect the spring perch wedged itself in the shock tower and held the strut in place there. So...i need to order another spring perch if i can't get the missing part. Just so I could put everything back together and roll it around the driveway and garage I 3D printed a rough copy of the missing part and used that for the time being. If i had an engineering plastic like carbon-reinforced nylon or delrin I might have looked into whether that would be sufficient for some short trips....but that'll be an adventure for another day. Lesson learned....don't forget to check that strut nut, and use nylock nuts instead of a split washer and regular nut.
            Yikes! Hope you sorted it out man


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              Not from today but thought I would write up something that happened a while ago as it's pretty interesting and might be hard to read for some. When I purchased my M3 it had a black leather interior, but when looking at the VIN it was supposed to have M-texture. I assumed at some point it had been swapped out and as I had never seen an M tex M3 in NZ before I thought it might even be a mistake on the VIN site I was using. I ended up buying the car anyway as it was an ok example and at the right price, but tbh I didn't really know what I was looking for anyway never having owned one prior. Further into my ownership, after checking multiple vin sites, it seemed my car really was supposed to have M tex in it. One day I decided to pull one of the armrests off the door card to clean and what I saw was pretty surprising. The car didn't have a black leather set swapped in, it was retrimmed in black leather. And poorly... The leather on the door cards was literally glued overtop of the original m texture fabric.

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              I couldn't believe it. At this point, coincidentally enough, I had sourced a way to get an M texture interior and it was imminent so I decided to just pull the whole interior apart and see what was done exactly. I was able to pull the leather completely off the insert and expose the ruined original fabric. The M texture was not salvageable unfortunately. The alcantara was ruined by whatever contact adhesive had been used, and the perforations were full of it as well.

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              To rub salt in the wound, shortly after I discovered just how rare this interior was in NZ. Only 5 were brought in (one of which was oxford green on m texture and 1 of 4 RHD in the world), and had this one not been retrimmed it would have been the only surviving car with it in the country at the time. All the others wrecked, one turned into a racecar. Of the other cars, one of the interiors was salvageable but it was not for sale (I tried several times lol) and has since found it's way into a very nice LSB M3. My M3 has since been (partially, still waiting on a few bits) returned to original and is 1 of 2 in NZ with the interior, the only one that's factory specced though. Which is nice if you're into that kind of thing.

              Moral of the story, I never want to meet whoever owned this car in 2007. Labels on the door card indicated that's when it was done. It will forever baffle me why you wouldn't just swap in a black leather interior and sell/keep the original. Would have been cheaper and looked significantly better...
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Thoglan; 05-03-2021, 01:30 AM.

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                Fired the sumbitch up after being on stands since November for rod bearings and control arms, bushings, engine mounts, etc, etc. Had a lot of things take precedent so it sat a long time.

                Started right up and just a little groaning from the PS pump until I got enough fluid circulating. Still have to button a few things up, change the fuel filter, tighten exhaust bolts while I'm under there, etc, get an alignment and finally drive the damn thing. Believe my lock down efforts are finally complete and ready for another 100k miles.

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                  Took off front TCKs DAs to get rebuilt, passenger was leaking.
                  Attached Files
                  2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
                  M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - Vorshlag - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/

                  IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/

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                    Swapped rotors, pads and brake wear sensors last night.

                    I really want to know who thought it was a good idea to put the rear sensor connection box in the most inaccessible place between the fuel tank and chassis rail. I'm especially curious because the front connection box is super accesible right there in the wheel well. Seriously, just why?
                    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                      Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                      Swapped rotors, pads and brake wear sensors last night.

                      I really want to know who thought it was a good idea to put the rear sensor connection box in the most inaccessible place between the fuel tank and chassis rail. I'm especially curious because the front connection box is super accesible right there in the wheel well. Seriously, just why?
                      Hate that stupid box. I couldn’t get one of the push pins out when I did my 996 kit so just zip tied the tail of the sensor to the control arm for now. Need to make a defeat plug like I have in the front, drill out the pin, and get in there for the last time.

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                        Reviving the M3 after all this time (sup brian) after deciding to keep it. Original owner, overhauling everything mechanically and perfecting it cosmetically then all parts will start going on.

                        Sup to any my og RF'ers who may be on here.

                        2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

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                          More suspension components inbound. CMP Subframe and RTABs. ECS rear upper mount reinforcement plates.

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                            Installed the new vented fenders.

                            Waiting on painting until I receive my other lightweight parts. (hood already here, trunk in the making)

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                            2002 E46 M3 TiAg Coupé >> full tracktool conversion @m346gt
                            2000 986 Boxster S >> ice cream getter
                            Past: E46 330Ci, 944S2, 996 C4S

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                              Got tuned by Hassan. Even my wife said the car sounded better! Very pleasant experience. Turns out the previous owner had a tune for race gas and I never knew. Knock adaptations were pulling a bunch of timing!

                              So far the tune has been great, no more partial throttle hesitation. The price is amazing compared to the other options out there.

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                                Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

                                Hate that stupid box. I couldn’t get one of the push pins out when I did my 996 kit so just zip tied the tail of the sensor to the control arm for now. Need to make a defeat plug like I have in the front, drill out the pin, and get in there for the last time.
                                Saaaaame. I'm probably just gonna cut the wires and solder them together, just a small "U"-shaped harness coming out of the box

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