Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Noticed that my ambient temp sensor is a bit overzealous. In heavy traffic on the freeway outside temp was probably about 95-97F definitely not 100F, my ambient sensor seems think its about 107F I'm pretty sure it wasn't that hot outside. When traffic cleared it does tend to go lower but it seems higher than normal.

    I do have a 325Ci that drive regularly and its ambient temp sensor `seems` more accurate, never seen to over read the ambient temp like it does on the M3.

    Not sure if i should replace the ambient temp sensor, or just live with it. I physically inspected the sensor and it doesn't seem damaged in any way. Is there any downsides to leaving this temp sensor alone?

    Comment


      Finally got the pressure plate bolts off. Attached some pictures of the flywheel and clutch. There's about 30k miles on the clutch (including many track days) and the flywheel is original to the car (2002). Have been getting some strange noises (high pitched squeal) randomly while shifting so pulled everything to take a look. Clutch is getting replaced. Thoughts on reusing the flywheel? Black marks on the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all match up. Running a fingernail over the flywheel doesn't catch anything. The insides of the flywheel feel "grainy" while the outsides are smooth. Normal wear and tear or something wrong? Been a long, long time since I replaced a clutch.

      The piston for the slave cylinder popped out; push it back in or just replace?

      Mike

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3424.jpg Views:	0 Size:	129.4 KB ID:	275299

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3420.jpg Views:	0 Size:	118.8 KB ID:	275300 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3421.jpg Views:	0 Size:	169.1 KB ID:	275301 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3422.jpg Views:	0 Size:	162.1 KB ID:	275302 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3424.jpg Views:	0 Size:	129.4 KB ID:	275303
      Attached Files
      02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
      11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
      16 X5

      Comment


        Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
        Finally got the pressure plate bolts off. Attached some pictures of the flywheel and clutch. There's about 30k miles on the clutch (including many track days) and the flywheel is original to the car (2002). Have been getting some strange noises (high pitched squeal) randomly while shifting so pulled everything to take a look. Clutch is getting replaced. Thoughts on reusing the flywheel? Black marks on the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all match up. Running a fingernail over the flywheel doesn't catch anything. The insides of the flywheel feel "grainy" while the outsides are smooth. Normal wear and tear or something wrong? Been a long, long time since I replaced a clutch.
        SPEC clutch? Throw that thing in the trash, if you are N/A get a stock clutch kit. IF the flywheel isn't grooved its likely fine.


        Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
        The piston for the slave cylinder popped out; push it back in or just replace?]
        FTE slaves are cheap, but if the current one looks fine reassembling it shouldn't be an issue.

        '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
        Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
        Email to George@HillPerformance.com

        Comment


          Originally posted by George Hill View Post

          SPEC clutch? Throw that thing in the trash, if you are N/A get a stock clutch kit. IF the flywheel isn't grooved its likely fine.

          FTE slaves are cheap, but if the current one looks fine reassembling it shouldn't be an issue.
          Thanks George! Car is N/A - going with Luk clutch kit plus OE pilot bearing. Any need to replace the clutch fork and spring clip "while I'm in there"? Already have a metal pivot pin.

          Mike

          02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
          11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
          16 X5

          Comment


            Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
            Any need to replace the clutch fork and spring clip "while I'm in there"
            I would replace the fork and the TOB guide tube, spring clip you should be able to reuse.

            '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
            Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
            Email to George@HillPerformance.com

            Comment


              I have fairly new Motorsport Hardware wheel studs on the car with zero track time. The body shop torqued them to 100-110 lb-ft even after I gave them the correct torque spec. Do y'all think it’s necessary to replace them, or would it be okay to continue running them? I’m just worried about the studs cracking, especially on track. MSH never responded to my email lol.

              Edit: Idk if it matters, but the car was not driven after they were overtorqued. I retorqued to the correct spec before leaving the shop.
              Last edited by SQ13; 08-17-2024, 10:35 AM.
              Silver Track to Street Car Journal
              Interlagos Blue Street Car Journal

              Comment


                Originally posted by George Hill View Post

                I would replace the fork and the TOB guide tube, spring clip you should be able to reuse.
                Thanks again for that. One (maybe) last question:
                I'm going to order the Sachs clutch kit. It comes with the pressure plate, TOB and clutch disc but no alignment tool. The Luk kit comes with the pressure plate, TOB, clutch disc, alignment tool and pilot bearing. All my reading here says to absolutely buy the OE pilot bearing and do NOT use the Luk pilot bearing. My question is: do I absolutely need the screw-type alignment tool in the Luk kit and as discussed here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...3761#post13761

                Cause its damn expensive for something I'll only use once. And I already have the alignment tool with the loop at the end.

                Mike
                02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
                11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
                16 X5

                Comment


                  Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
                  I'm going to order the Sachs clutch kit. It comes with the pressure plate, TOB and clutch disc but no alignment tool. The Luk kit comes with the pressure plate, TOB, clutch disc, alignment tool and pilot bearing. All my reading here says to absolutely buy the OE pilot bearing and do NOT use the Luk pilot bearing.
                  I don't have any experience with the Sachs kit specifically, I've always used the LuK kit. I use the Pressure plate, disc and TOB. I ONLY use a genuine BMW pilot bearing.

                  Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
                  My question is: do I absolutely need the screw-type alignment tool in the Luk kit and as discussed here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...3761#post13761Mike
                  I have the BMW genuine alignment tool, I don't think I've ever used the plastic tool with the kit. Scratch that I had a buddy who was doing a 420g conversion in his touring and he could not get the trans on using the LuK alignment tool. I came over with my tool, we reset everything using mine and the trans went right on first try. YMMV.
                  Last edited by George Hill; 08-17-2024, 01:53 PM.
                  '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                  Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                  Email to George@HillPerformance.com

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by George Hill View Post

                    I don't have any experience with the Sachs kit specifically, I've always used the LuK kit. I use the Pressure plate, disc and TOB. I ONLY use a genuine BMW pilot bearing.

                    I have the BMW genuine alignment tool, I don't think I've ever used the plastic tool with the kit. Scratch that I had a buddy who was doing a 420g conversion in his touring and he could not get the trans on using the LuK alignment tool. I came over with my tool, we reset everything using mine and the trans went right on first try. YMMV.
                    That's some good info. Looks like I'm buying a tool to use one time only....

                    Mike
                    02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
                    11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
                    16 X5

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by George Hill View Post
                      I have the BMW genuine alignment tool, I don't think I've ever used the plastic tool with the kit. Scratch that I had a buddy who was doing a 420g conversion in his touring and he could not get the trans on using the LuK alignment tool. I came over with my tool, we reset everything using mine and the trans went right on first try. YMMV.
                      You have way more experience than me with this, but just to add another data point. I used the luk plastic alignment tool and my transmission went right in first try as well.
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                        You have way more experience than me with this, but just to add another data point. I used the luk plastic alignment tool and my transmission went right in first try as well.
                        Thanks for your note, I should have articulated better that my experience with the LuK alignment tool may not be norm and could be just a one off.
                        '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                        Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                        Email to George@HillPerformance.com

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                          You have way more experience than me with this, but just to add another data point. I used the luk plastic alignment tool and my transmission went right in first try as well.
                          That’s good news to me. I’ll give it a whirl when everything gets here.

                          Mike
                          02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
                          11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
                          16 X5

                          Comment


                            So I tried to thin the wiring harness down on the track car this summer. The lazy, albeit harder way by just snipping and checking. I know it's better just to pull and redo the harness out of the car. This was just a fitting add on task.

                            I made it out pretty painlessly but I have 2 issues.
                            1) No speedometer
                            2) Coolant light on (coolant is good level)

                            Not too worried about the coolant light right now, but the speedometer I'm trying to get fixed.

                            Every other system in the car (checked with inpa) is showing a speed signal from all 4 corners. DSC & SMG modules. Along with no related error codes from either one. So I would assume it's a kbus communication error to the cluster.

                            Looking at the wiring diagrams, pin 14 on X11175 is the kbus signal. When I depin 14 on the plug I get a can error in the control module but no more visible error lights.

                            Before I go and cut to connect a jumper/ rewire pin 14 to the kbus hub, does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?


                            Edit: Sorry everything I was referring to as can is actually K-Bus
                            Edit: found the pinout chart again. Pin 8 is likely, but I’m struggling to find out how the wiring works on this one. It looks like this is just a wire from the hub to the dash and then a ground
                            Last edited by Darbshaw; 08-18-2024, 03:17 PM.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
                              I have fairly new Motorsport Hardware wheel studs on the car with zero track time. The body shop torqued them to 100-110 lb-ft even after I gave them the correct torque spec. Do y'all think it’s necessary to replace them, or would it be okay to continue running them? I’m just worried about the studs cracking, especially on track. MSH never responded to my email lol.

                              Edit: Idk if it matters, but the car was not driven after they were overtorqued. I retorqued to the correct spec before leaving the shop.
                              Whats the spec you're torqueing them down to? Core4 suggests 100 ft-lbs is the correct torque spec for this application.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post

                                Whats the spec you're torqueing them down to? Core4 suggests 100 ft-lbs is the correct torque spec for this application.
                                Core4 specs might be different since the studs are pressed in. I have the standard thread in MSH studs. The spec for those is “factory torque or 90 lb-ft,” and I’ve been torquing to 85.
                                Silver Track to Street Car Journal
                                Interlagos Blue Street Car Journal

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X