Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Thoglan]

I'm just being curious...converted SMG > Manual - can you money $hift them?

No! Even with my thread re my SMG issue, I'm not converting. Grew up back home where auto was a luxury. I've driven multiple manual cars and enjoy the engagement, but I want to retain my SMG. I also have my DCT. I like the fact that when I've "over-downshifted", it didn't implode on me 'cuz the rev limiter kicked in. Does that feature carry-over for the converts?

No. An over rev on downshift is the mechanical result of the wheels forcing the motor to spin faster than it is designed. Because it is a mechanical interaction there is nothing that can be done to stop an overrev once the gear is selected and the clutch is taken out. I don't know exactly how the SMG works since I haven't driven one on track but it's not the limiter that stops the car from overreving, it will just calculate the engine rpm in the desired gear based on the wheel speed and if that is above the limiter then it simply won't change down.

[Da Jemster]

No. An over rev on downshift is the mechanical result of the wheels forcing the motor to spin faster than it is designed. Because it is a mechanical interaction there is nothing that can be done to stop an overrev once the gear is selected and the clutch is taken out. I don't know exactly how the SMG works since I haven't driven one on track but it's not the limiter that stops the car from overreving, it will just calculate the engine rpm in the desired gear based on the wheel speed and if that is above the limiter then it simply won't change down.

Thx! SMG will allow you. I've made a couple of mistakes meaning to go 4 > 2, but mistakenly went down the 1st and the revs will peg itself and I would quickly shift to a higher gear. No implosion.

[Thoglan]

Thx! SMG will allow you. I've made a couple of mistakes meaning to go 4 > 2, but mistakenly went down the 1st and the revs will peg itself and I would quickly shift to a higher gear. No implosion.

Someone with a bit more knowledge on the SMG box can probably say for sure but my guess is that it would never actually shift down fully and engage the clutch if the revs would go beyond the limiter. It might try and rev match hence why you're hitting the limiter for a second, but it wouldn't engage the clutch if it wasn't able to get the revs high enough. Obviously the limiter is not mechanical and is just a fuel cut set by the ecu so that won't stop a mechanical overrev, what you're feeling when the revs are pegged is just the computer trying to rev match up high enough and failing while the clutch is disengaged, not the car actually engaging first gear and spinning the motor up. A fuel cut won't stop the motor from grenading when selecting first gear but the SMG won't let the clutch up if it will take the revs beyond the limiter. Either that or it's holding the revs at the limiter while the clutch is disengaged until the wheel speed drops off. Once the car is going slow enough it will engage the clutch.

In a manual car there's nothing to stop the driver from selecting too low of a gear and letting the clutch up which is why it's impossible to stop an overrev with the ECU.

[Acarv_426]

Here's a dumb question. I am installing my CSL airbox soon and am going to run a canned CSL tune for a while. I eventually plan on doing a custom DYNO tune in the future just not in the cards right now. Anyways, my DME needs to be converted to MSS54HP. I plan on having Kassel Performance do the conversion. While I'm at it, should I have them install their canned CSL tune or go with someone else for a canned tune like HTE? Does it even matter when dealing with canned tunes? Obviously custom DYNO tunes are different. Please forgive my ignorance and thanks in advance.

[Casa de Mesa]

I just did this basically. Bought a spare MSS54HP ECU with the full CSL code on it. If you are using HTE for the tune ultimately, my suggestion would be to have Kassel do the conversion with the full base CSL code loaded, not their tune though. The car will be drivable for a little bit, but running extremely rich most likely. HTE can remote into your car using a laptop and cable (provided you have one). That will give you a "base" HTE tune that you can use until you take the car to a dyno session where he does remote tuning to get the AFRs and everything else dialed in.

[Acarv_426]

I just did this basically. Bought a spare MSS54HP ECU with the full CSL code on it. If you are using HTE for the tune ultimately, my suggestion would be to have Kassel do the conversion with the full base CSL code loaded, not their tune though. The car will be drivable for a little bit, but running extremely rich most likely. HTE can remote into your car using a laptop and cable (provided you have one). That will give you a "base" HTE tune that you can use until you take the car to a dyno session where he does remote tuning to get the AFRs and everything else dialed in.

Awesome. Thanks for the help, it’s appreciated!

[L0okitzRaj]

Hawk HPS or HP+ for daily & weekend spirited drives?

I have pfc-08 for track.

[IamFODI]

Hawk HPS or HP+ for daily & weekend spirited drives?

Why not OE?

[Tbonem3]

Never Hawk anything

[L0okitzRaj]

Why not OE?

My biggest reason was dust.

[IamFODI]

My biggest reason was dust.

There's no free lunch, especially with brake pads, so you'll be hard pressed to reduce dust without making big sacrifices elsewhere. What are you willing to compromise on?

One thing you can do is make it easier to clean the dust off. I know Porterfield pads have dust that's especially easy to clean. They don't make less of it but it comes off easily with water. Go for R4-1 if you can tolerate some noise and short life; otherwise, R4-S.

Or you can use the pad of your choice plus wheel wax.

Barring that... I guess you could get a BBK with huge calipers so that you can run a low-dust pad without sacrificing bite...

[r4dr]

How do I calculate what spring length I need? Or, specifically, how much travel I need?

My KW damper has 210mm of metal to metal by my measurement. I'm aiming for 275# springs in the front. Stock corner weights, standard 13.5" ride height. I'm a little lost with where to start, any tips? If possible, I would like the perch to end up above the tire.

[dHam_Slow.46M]

What's a good source for rear axle shafts? Are we stuck with (sketchy) eBay remans and the Driveshaft Shop rebuilds?

Got a complimentary inspection from the stealership while the car was in for an emissions monitor reset(damn cat monitors didn't want to ready up) and they found the rear left boot leaking. They offered to do it for $1950, but I wanted a 2nd opinion/cheaper alternative.

[DoubleSidedTape]

What's a good source for rear axle shafts? Are we stuck with (sketchy) eBay remans and the Driveshaft Shop rebuilds?

Got a complimentary inspection from the stealership while the car was in for an emissions monitor reset(damn cat monitors didn't want to ready up) and they found the rear left boot leaking. They offered to do it for $1950, but I wanted a 2nd opinion/cheaper alternative.

I had mine rebuilt by CVJ Axles in Denver. I think it was something like $289/side. I shipped them my axles and they rebuilt them. I’d give them a call.

[L0okitzRaj]

There's no free lunch, especially with brake pads, so you'll be hard pressed to reduce dust without making big sacrifices elsewhere. What are you willing to compromise on?

One thing you can do is make it easier to clean the dust off. I know Porterfield pads have dust that's especially easy to clean. They don't make less of it but it comes off easily with water. Go for R4-1 if you can tolerate some noise and short life; otherwise, R4-S.

Or you can use the pad of your choice plus wheel wax.

Barring that... I guess you could get a BBK with huge calipers so that you can run a low-dust pad without sacrificing bite...

What would I be sacrificing running the hawks? ..initial bite? I didn't read any bad reviews, so i'm curious.

I also am not looking for completely dustless... just less than the texar pads.