Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[BigRussia]

I think you will need to recalibrate it to learn its zero position. The SCCM also is used by the DSC, the car will see an unexpected angle versus yaw and wheel speed..

also it will spin more to one side on lock to lock conditions so you need to make sure there is enough cable inside the spool. I think it does as the angle is not that much but not sure how much slack there is. Record the position and spin it in both directions to see how much there is lock to lock, be careful as there is no mechanical stop other than the internal wiring. As long as there is enough rotation based on the cars lock to lock turns based on the steering column limit you will be fine.

Damn didnt even think about the DSC and yaw sensor! Yeah now I'm not sure what to do, i really dont want to drive with a crooked steering wheel, and this doesn't seem like something an alignment would fix? Not that i have time before a 3.5hr drive up to Sebring Friday for a track weekend.
Here’s how crooked the hub and wheel would be if i put the hub on with clockspring centered (top hole has gold mark)

Ugh, why couldnt OMP just make their wheel hub have the holes for the clockspring knobs and the top wheel bolt hole be centered correctly lol. In an install video on youtube someone used a NRG one and they were able to slide it on centered no problem with the clock spring in center position. Figured a ‘quality’ brand like OMP i wouldnt have issues like this

[maupineda]

You can drive it, but would get DSC/ABS errors. Or if you have INPA I think you would be able to zero it out. It needs to learn its zero position.

[heinzboehmer]

Position of the clock spring won't affect the steering angle measurement. The sensor for that is further down on the column and the column and clock spring are not mechanically attached by anything other than the steering wheel.

As Mau said, if you've got enough slack in the clock spring to be able to turn it to full lock both ways without it binding, you should be alright.

[BigRussia]

Position of the clock spring won't affect the steering angle measurement. The sensor for that is further down on the column and the column and clock spring are not mechanically attached by anything other than the steering wheel.

As Mau said, if you've got enough slack in the clock spring to be able to turn it to full lock both ways without it binding, you should be alright.

Oh ok awesome, good to know and thanks for confirming that! Yeah was really worried about having any DSC/ABS issues before a Sebring trip so already had given up and was packing up the wheel hub to return it to the local OMP America store I bought it from. I reached out to the sale rep too with the issue and he said hes going to check if there was a revision but I'm not hopeful. Said hes seen a similar issue with their NA/NB Miata wheel hub.

I guess I’ll go ahead and install it then with the clockspring canted to confirm no lock to lock issues, but will most likely do it after the Sebring weekend trip to be on the safe side and can test it properly. Dont want to discover issues while so far from home. Will follow-up with the results.
Lastly here’s a side by side of how canted the wheel hub is when lined up with the centered clockspring knubs that i took to send to the OMP sales rep.

[ridebikes]

My dumb question is how to think about swapping not just intakes but the ECUs to go along with them.

For California reasons, it'd be great to swap between the CSL intake & stock intake periodically.

But my understanding is that an ECU really needs to be tuned (Alpha N, etc.) to take full advantage of the CSL intake. But that kind of tune is not permitted in CA.

So the dumb question is: could I simply buy a second ECU, pair it to my car, and have it tuned for the CSL setup, then swap both the stock intake and ECU back every few years? Or is there a work around to have my original ECU do it all?

[Tbonem3]

But that kind of tune is not permitted in CA.

You absolutely can be tuned during your smog test.

[ridebikes]

You absolutely can be tuned during your smog test.

I meant you can't run Alpha N for a CSL intake

[Tbonem3]

Yes you can.

There are various things you can do with a "tune," and not affect the emissions drive cycles. You will need cats (in sect 1) or defoulers or something, and o2s installed ofc, but it is very possible.

[fattycharged]

Anyone running Powerflex bushes for the upper inners? I bought a set, was going to replace them last night while I was doing the ball joints, but ended up breaking my threaded rod and had to put it on hold.

It doesn't seem like they would be a negative in that location, my original rubber bushings look great for 120k miles and 20 years though 😂

Tempted to order a set of sphericals for it, but thought this the place to ask


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[Tbonem3]

Is the idea that they'll limit a tiny bit of deflection? Probably won't do much but introduce more NVH. I vote rubber. The ends, both upper and lower, are already ball joints anyway. Inners are a bitch to do anyway because you have to move or remove the diff.

[zzyzx85]

My dumb question is how to think about swapping not just intakes but the ECUs to go along with them.

For California reasons, it'd be great to swap between the CSL intake & stock intake periodically.

But my understanding is that an ECU really needs to be tuned (Alpha N, etc.) to take full advantage of the CSL intake. But that kind of tune is not permitted in CA.

So the dumb question is: could I simply buy a second ECU, pair it to my car, and have it tuned for the CSL setup, then swap both the stock intake and ECU back every few years? Or is there a work around to have my original ECU do it all?

that's what I'm doing. I have a 2nd ECU that has a "canned" tune from Kassel Performance that I run with my CSL intake. When it's time for smog, I swap it all out and put my stock ECU back on.

[fattycharged]

Is the idea that they'll limit a tiny bit of deflection? Probably won't do much but introduce more NVH. I vote rubber. The ends, both upper and lower, are already ball joints anyway. Inners are a bitch to do anyway because you have to move or remove the diff.

Everything is being R&R'd, including the diff, so it's a “now's the time/while you're in there”. Outer ball joints have all been replaced, RTAB's are Bimmerworld, camber arms are some ECS aluminum I had lying around, they still use rubber on the inner joint.
I'm getting anxious to get this thing back together while the weather is cool

Maybe I should make a journal…


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[SQ13]

Everything is being R&R'd, including the diff, so it's a “now's the time/while you're in there”. Outer ball joints have all been replaced, RTAB's are Bimmerworld, camber arms are some ECS aluminum I had lying around, they still use rubber on the inner joint.
I'm getting anxious to get this thing back together while the weather is cool

Maybe I should make a journal…


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I bought OE for the uppers. Wouldn't recommend poly TBH. I believe I have an extra pair of OE inners that I can sell to you -- can confirm when I go to Katy tomorrow. Also have a ball joint tool set you can borrow.

[PSUEng]

Cruising eBay for wheels, and almost about to give up on my dealer order of 2 new 19" 67s when I came across a refinisher by the name of "The Wheel Artist". From the photos, the refinish work they do appears to be tops. Does anyone here have experience with them?

[fattycharged]

I bought OE for the uppers. Wouldn't recommend poly TBH. I believe I have an extra pair of OE inners that I can sell to you -- can confirm when I go to Katy tomorrow. Also have a ball joint tool set you can borrow.

Thanks man, appreciate it


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