Random question…I was replacing the red fixtures for the trim piece that goes over the glove box. On disintegrated and bits fell into the hole. Is there anyway to fish them out? Don't know if that area is accessible if I take apart the glovebox. I can hear the pieces rattling around.
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2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 280/272 Schrick Cams+P54 Followers | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 336/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | VAC Exhaust Hub | WPC Rod Bearings
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Haven't taken a dash out before, but I would think that those pieces would fall out if the glove box is removed.Originally posted by duracellttu View PostRandom question…I was replacing the red fixtures for the trim piece that goes over the glove box. On disintegrated and bits fell into the hole. Is there anyway to fish them out? Don't know if that area is accessible if I take apart the glovebox. I can hear the pieces rattling around.
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Hoping there is an obvious solution to this that I haven’t found yet….Anyone have a solution for finding replacement nut inserts for the front carbon/Kevlar bumper reinforcement bumper pins? Looks like they are NLA, and the only option is likely buying a damaged used reinforcement just for the clips..
07129901748
Prestol-cage
ST6,3-ZNS
1 Photo
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thanks for the info, appreciate it.Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostUnfortunately as far as I know, there are no suitable alternatives:
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...rvoir-mounting
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I used a hardware store spring nut aka speed nut although I think technically "speed nut" is the wrong term for these. Looks just like the below, has worked great and even reused them a few times so far.Originally posted by skylinekin View PostHoping there is an obvious solution to this that I haven’t found yet….Anyone have a solution for finding replacement nut inserts for the front carbon/Kevlar bumper reinforcement bumper pins? Looks like they are NLA, and the only option is likely buying a damaged used reinforcement just for the clips..
07129901748
Prestol-cage
ST6,3-ZNS
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When I went to a Euro bumper there was a guy on Ebay selling these, likely not OEM, but a nice copy, but tight fit and worked perfectly.Originally posted by skylinekin View PostHoping there is an obvious solution to this that I haven’t found yet….Anyone have a solution for finding replacement nut inserts for the front carbon/Kevlar bumper reinforcement bumper pins? Looks like they are NLA, and the only option is likely buying a damaged used reinforcement just for the clips..
07129901748
Prestol-cage
ST6,3-ZNS
I just searched BMW prestol cage bumper or something like that, I want to say they were gold in color.2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve been checking eBay and no luck yet. I did find some damaged bumper reinforcements with all the clips and such still intact so I’ll just likely do that to get the hardware and trash the damaged bar.Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
When I went to a Euro bumper there was a guy on Ebay selling these, likely not OEM, but a nice copy, but tight fit and worked perfectly.
I just searched BMW prestol cage bumper or something like that, I want to say they were gold in color.
I think if someone is looking to replace the washer fluid/horn mount clips they could toss the self tapping bolts and use M6 bolts instead with part number 37146850307 Prestol-Cage (M6 Zns3) which has an M6 nut insert and is still available to buy…but for the bumper pins since those are self tapping thread this idea won’t work (sharing in case someone else runs into this issue).
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That's a tough one because $200 for an OEM hose is highway robbery. When the return line into my reservoir was leaking, I just cut it back a bit and got new Clic-R clamps; it's held fine. I also disconnected the suction hose at the reservoir and used a new clamp there as well. Basically if it's not leaking, I'd probably just keep using it as it's easy enough to change out later. If it is leaking, personally I'd go with the URO one and check in on it periodically.Originally posted by ejendow View PostLooking to do a PS refresh soon and was shocked at the price of the Suction Hose - 32412229369. I see there is a URO part listed for a fraction of the part. Now I vowed to never put any URO parts on my car, but in this case would it be a terrible idea to cheap out on this?
FWIW I tried worm clamps and they just didn't work for me; only the Clic-R clamps gave even pressure to stop any drips.
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Yes; turn to the right (clockwise) as far as it goes. Once it stops clicking, don't force it, ease back to the left (counterclockwise). The first detent it lands in is 0. Then each click counterclockwise is counting up.Originally posted by ugaexploder View PostWhen adjusting the rebound on Ohlins R&T, is it right = stiff, left = loose?
So would you turn right all the way until it can't click anymore, then start clicking left?
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Some new error codes yesterday. I hardly use the AC (drive with the windows down), but yesterday was especially hot and when I took one of the cars to pick up the kids from school in 95* temperatures, I tried to turn the AC on. Snowflake would illuminate and turn off immediately, and the air speed would be limited to 50%. Ambient air temperature reached 110*.
Plugged in the laptop and got these two codes:
24 Additional heater relay
Error frequency: 10
short circuit to batt+
Errorcode: 18010A2445C088510386
255 Energy saving mode active
Error frequency: 1
short circuit to ground
error present
Errorcode: FF42012489CF88510375
Anyone with a similar experience?
David
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