Originally posted by EthanolTurbo
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What did you do for your M3 today?
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Originally posted by ra2fanatic View Post
that's why they only use one hanger on the left side compared to 2 on steel units. It's so light.Instagram: @logicalconclusion
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Originally posted by A144 View PostCar has about 113k miles, and I believe these are the original bearings.
Last edited by sapote; 01-28-2021, 09:23 PM.
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I had these AN fittings installed when I had my diff built. So when I decided I wanted to add a diff cooler / temp sensor, I would be ready for the install. However one of the AN fittings had began to develop a small leak.
That custom ramped Drexler LSD 😎
Also got around to installing a CSF oil cooler. Much bigger than stock
Last edited by MD_M3; 01-28-2021, 08:58 PM.
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
Interesting to see the shorter and deeper wear on #6 compared to #4 with longer wear pattern. I believe #4 bearing is a better match for the journal (tighter clearance) which distributes the load over a longer arc, while a wider clearance tends to concentrate the load at narrower arc on the bearing.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
2006 M3 6MT Interlagos Blue
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Originally posted by stash1 View Post
Just curious, who did the scaling/tuning after the swap?Instagram: @logicalconclusion
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Originally posted by EthanolTurbo View Post
Hassan @ HTE Performance. I'm just running a basemap right now, haven't even started dialing it in yet. Fuel pump relay just died so replacing that and installing wideband.
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Cleaning loctite from female threads...for the 3rd time.
1st try= Lang bolts and loctite 242 factory torque spec
2nd try= Lang bolts and loctite 243 factory torque
3rd attempt will be: Lang bolts with loctite 243 (maybe 263 red) and a higher torque spec., 12ft lb instead of 9ft lb.
I am sure it would have been just fine on my first attempt.
.22 cal gun cleaning brushes work well.
I am so nervous that I have to cheat (bias the crank slightly CCW of TDC1) the timing for the bridge to sit flush on the head I am scared to start the car so part of this is me just stretching out the time it's going to take before the first turn of the key.
Instead of "bulletproofing" my vanos which worked just fine and already had the updated cam bolts (didn't know until disassembly) I feel like I am going to ruin my engine somehow, fingers crossed.
2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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Originally posted by T-Rex View Post
Don't suppose there's a chance you're running a CSL airbox? I've been wanting to do this for my car, but have been waiting to see if it's worth the ~$1500
Fuel pump = $105ish genuine
Injectors = $180
Tune = $350
I feel about 10-15 whp more on the butt dyno throughout the powerband. Once fine tuned I'm guessing it'll make 20-25 whp in various spots throughout the powerband over 91 tune. I'll dyno mine at EAS sometime to compare against everyone else in SoCal.Instagram: @logicalconclusion
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