Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Nick_P]

Cut the shroud if you don't want to disconnect the coolant hose, I had to bend my dipstick but I have seen some have simply rotated it.
You can reach way in under the driver's side wheel and loosen the bolt holding the dipstick in place to make rotational adjustments.

Perfect...I’ll try rotating before bending it. Just received the pre-‘03 vacuum air rail in the mail which was the last piece of the puzzle.

[keljos]

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a Karbonius CSL Airbox, although I have questions regarding the installation/tuning process for these (understood it's involved):
1. What tune options are available these days and which people recommend & why? A lot of posts on this are getting fairly old and i'm unsure which routes are still relevant today.
2. What does the process look like for applying new tunes if I choose to go with someone who isn't local to me?
3. Still trying to determine whether to go with the carbon fiber snorkel vs the OEM CSL flap, leaning towards the flap in order to preserve relatively more day-to-day drivability (if my understanding is correct). Any strong opinions one way or the other here?
4. Anything you learned the hard way during the installation/tuning process that you wish you had known going into it?

[Cubieman]

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a Karbonius CSL Airbox, although I have questions regarding the installation/tuning process for these (understood it's involved):
1. What tune options are available these days and which people recommend & why? A lot of posts on this are getting fairly old and i'm unsure which routes are still relevant today.

You can simply start with the stock CSL tune and modify it for US cams, easier that it sounds. I simply went to Kassel and bought a spare DME with CSL tune pre-loaded as I was not comfortable doing that back when I installed my airbox. They also installed the H-bridge with is necessary if you want to run the flap.
CSL software available here:
http://www.msstuning.com/mssflasher.html


2. What does the process look like for applying new tunes if I choose to go with someone who isn't local to me?
You reach out to a tuner like HTE or Paul Claude and they send you a tune and you use a program like "BMW Flash" and a USB Cable to flash your DME. If you want a better tune tailored to your car you go to a dyno and have the tuner do a remote tune via TeamViewer on a laptop.

Here is some basic info on flashing your DME:
http://www.ecuworx.co.uk/how-to/usin...fication-tool/

3. Still trying to determine whether to go with the carbon fiber snorkel vs the OEM CSL flap, leaning towards the flap in order to preserve relatively more day-to-day drivability (if my understanding is correct). Any strong opinions one way or the other here?

I went without the flap for a while and was glad I got around to installing it, it improved low RPM throttle response and low speed drivability for me. It wasn't night and day, but it made a difference for me. Also, using a program you can choose at what RPM the flap opens in each gear should you ever want more noise. If you do the flap just get ready to run 5 more wires to the DME harness.


4. Anything you learned the hard way during the installation/tuning process that you wish you had known going into it?

Don't overthink it! Also be careful bending your dipstick tube, I went too far and kinked mine a but. Reach in under the the wheel, unbolt from oil pan and simply try rotating it first before you bend it. Clean your idle control valve and throttle bodies while in there. And enjoy!

Some tips I put in your quote in bold.

[Cubieman]

I know there are many threads in which this info can be found but could someone post a quick and dirty list of what parts to drop in what order if I want to drop the entire rear end/racp for a topside job?

Also if anyone has dropped the rear end/racp as one using 4 post lift any tips would be great as I could see the lift getting in the way of pulling the whole thing out from under the vehicle.

[jet_dogg]

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a Karbonius CSL Airbox, although I have questions regarding the installation/tuning process for these (understood it's involved):
4. Anything you learned the hard way during the installation/tuning process that you wish you had known going into it?

Here's a concise write-up by turner http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...stallation.pdf

The same principles apply. If you are going map based alpha N you will need to adapt/new csl air rail and map sensor plus connection.

Also keep in mind the wait time for karbonius, might be better to order now as opposed to pulling the trigger when you're ready only to have to wait 8-10 weeks or whatever it is.

[heinzboehmer]

I know there are many threads in which this info can be found but could someone post a quick and dirty list of what parts to drop in what order if I want to drop the entire rear end/racp for a topside job?

Also if anyone has dropped the rear end/racp as one using 4 post lift any tips would be great as I could see the lift getting in the way of pulling the whole thing out from under the vehicle.

- Undo handbrake cables inside car (since you start off clean)
- Remove rear v brace
- Remove sections 1-3 of exhaust - Remove heatshields
- Remove all plastic panels
- Remove driveshaft
- Unbolt RTAB brackets from chassis
- Unbolt rear shocks
- Do something about rear brake calipers (either unbolt some stuff and snake them through the gap between the lca and half shaft or disconnect the brake lines entirely)
- Disconnect all electrical wires (I think there's only the headlight leveling sensor, wheel speed sensors and brake pad wear sensor)
- Pull handbrake cables all the way through so that they're free
- Support subframe somehow
- Undo all 8 subframe bolts/nuts
- Lower assembly sloooowly
- Check everything periodically as you lower it to make sure you didn't miss unbolting something

I might have missed something, but that's all I can remember that you need to do.

Can't comment on the four post, but I've removed the entire assembly twice on jack stands. I just set it down onto moving dollies and wheeled it out from underneath the car.

[Cubieman]

- Undo handbrake cables inside car (since you start off clean)
- Remove rear v brace
- Remove sections 1-3 of exhaust - Remove heatshields
- Remove all plastic panels
- Remove driveshaft
- Unbolt RTAB brackets from chassis
- Unbolt rear shocks
- Do something about rear brake calipers (either unbolt some stuff and snake them through the gap between the lca and half shaft or disconnect the brake lines entirely)
- Disconnect all electrical wires (I think there's only the headlight leveling sensor, wheel speed sensors and brake pad wear sensor)
- Pull handbrake cables all the way through so that they're free
- Support subframe somehow
- Undo all 8 subframe bolts/nuts
- Lower assembly sloooowly
- Check everything periodically as you lower it to make sure you didn't miss unbolting something

I might have missed something, but that's all I can remember that you need to do.

Can't comment on the four post, but I've removed the entire assembly twice on jack stands. I just set it down onto moving dollies and wheeled it out from underneath the car.

Nice, thanks!

[keljos]

Some tips I put in your quote in bold.

This is incredibly helpful, thank you! A few follow ups:
1. How close does stock CSL tune + H-Bridge get the car to an optimal state? Is that meant to be the baseline just to get the car running, with further refinement from a tuner generally required (ex. via HTE/Paul Claude)?
2. Does the tune or the airbox you choose dictate the wiring/sensor setup (or both)? Some tunes/airboxes delete MAP while other setups retain them?
3. Any documentation you've come across for the setup of the flat?

[Cubieman]

This is incredibly helpful, thank you! A few follow ups:
1. How close does stock CSL tune + H-Bridge get the car to an optimal state? Is that meant to be the baseline just to get the car running, with further refinement from a tuner generally required (ex. via HTE/Paul Claude)?

CSL gets it close but further refinement (tuning) is worthwhile.

2. Does the tune or the airbox you choose dictate the wiring/sensor setup (or both)? Some tunes/airboxes delete MAP while other setups retain them?

If you use the CSL tune you must wire a MAP sensor, if you don't use the CSL tune you must run an Alpha-N tune (MAP-less). MAP sensor tunes are generally considered better in terms of driveability but some could argue that point.

3. Any documentation you've come across for the setup of the flat?

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/13962-diy-oem-csl-map-iat-flap-wiring

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/17227-map-sensor-wiring-help-please

Hope this helps.

[erickhoyos]

This is a dumb one, will Camaro/Corvette wheels fit on an E46 M3? Both have the same 5x120 bolt pattern but my guess is no

[keljos]

Hope this helps.

I owe you on this one! You even interpreted through the typo in my last question lol. Much reading to be done, easily accomplished during the 8 week lead time

[Will]

Any conclusion as to what happened to the owner of the original m3forums? I recall some discussion about him taking his company public and/or just died.

[r4dr]

This is a dumb one, will Camaro/Corvette wheels fit on an E46 M3? Both have the same 5x120 bolt pattern but my guess is no

The bolt pattern fits, but Camaro wheels have a 67.1mm center bore. In theory, you could have a machine shop open this up to 72.6mm which is what an E46 takes.

This is more difficult than going the other way, because you can just use a hub centering ring to compensate for an overlarge wheel bore.

[S3diment]

Hope this helps.

What about the IAT sensor? What wiring do you need for that? I see the Kassel one available (https://www.kasselperformance.com/pr...or-iat-flange/), but I'm not entirely sure the purpose it serves.

[Cubieman]

What about the IAT sensor? What wiring do you need for that? I see the Kassel one available (https://www.kasselperformance.com/pr...or-iat-flange/), but I'm not entirely sure the purpose it serves.

If you are running CSL or Alpha- N software I would run this harness, they (Turner) also offer a harness that retains the MAF sensor connection. With CSL software (or Alpha-N) you will not need the MAF sensor but you can use the empty connection to your advantage and tap into it to eliminate the need to tap into your DME harness wires.

Put simply, to make it easy just use this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-motorsport-parts/alpha-n-iat-harness/004646la01~a/