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    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    Anyone know where to get a hold of a legit FMS installer?
    I may be doing this sooner than later and with the cost of the seals going through 3-4 of them with a Dixie cup doesn't sound fun. Although I'm sure the tool isn't cheap either.
    Couldn't find the BMW tool when I looked (hence the plastic cup). This is definitely your best bet: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...main-seal-tool
    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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      Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

      Couldn't find the BMW tool when I looked (hence the plastic cup). This is definitely your best bet: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...main-seal-tool
      I rented this tool from cobra check out my build thread Cubieman in this post:

      In the early 2000s when the E46 M3s started hitting race tracks, I saw a Laguna Seca Blue M3 ripping around Road Atlanta. Shortly thereafter, another one was doing the same at Summit Point. And then another at VIR. For a stock car on street tires, it absolutely blew me away how fast it was on track. Although I wasn’t driving on
      Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

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        After service at the dealer, found this thing in the driver’s side footwell.

        Does anyone know what it is?






        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        2004 Mystic Blue M3 | 6-speed | Coupe
        Karbonius CSL-style airbox | OEM CSL snorkel & flap | Schrick 280 / 272 cams with followers | CSL inconel exhaust valves
        SuperSprint 63.5mm stepped headers, section-1 with sport cats, and resonated twin-pipe section-2
        ITG CSL Airbox Airfilter| Karbonius E46 microfilter cover
        Karbonius M3 E46 CSL trunklid | Ohlin's BMS MI30 coilovers

        Comment


          Originally posted by HanSooloo View Post
          After service at the dealer, found this thing in the driver’s side footwell.

          Does anyone know what it is?






          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Buy BMW Genuine E38 E39 E46 E52 E85 E86 Clutch Pedal Stop Buffer OEM 35316750569: Pedals & Pedal Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
          Instagram

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            Is that attached to the back of the clutch pedal or to the back wall?


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            2004 Mystic Blue M3 | 6-speed | Coupe
            Karbonius CSL-style airbox | OEM CSL snorkel & flap | Schrick 280 / 272 cams with followers | CSL inconel exhaust valves
            SuperSprint 63.5mm stepped headers, section-1 with sport cats, and resonated twin-pipe section-2
            ITG CSL Airbox Airfilter| Karbonius E46 microfilter cover
            Karbonius M3 E46 CSL trunklid | Ohlin's BMS MI30 coilovers

            Comment


              floor/wall
              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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                Does anyone know of a cheap front bumper cover replacement? The only thing I can find are E46 M3 ‘like’ for non M models. Or CSL front bumpers.

                There is the option of oem but I was trying to save a few bucks if possible.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  Originally posted by Darbshaw View Post
                  Does anyone know of a cheap front bumper cover replacement? The only thing I can find are E46 M3 ‘like’ for non M models. Or CSL front bumpers.

                  There is the option of oem but I was trying to save a few bucks if possible.
                  Get a Euro spec bumper. They're actually a little cheaper than the US spec.
                  2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Anthracite Impuse - SOLD

                  2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Black Nappa Leather
                  Karbonius | Supersprint | Cat Cams | Beisan | Fikse Wheels | Mile End Composites | AST 5200 | Hotchkis | Brembo | Recaro | Rouge SMF | RTD | Yellow Tag Rack | HTE Performance

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                    When you need to turn the crank by hand some vehicles have the four torx bolts requiring the use of a special tool while other cars (like mine 04') have a 32mm deal you can put a socket on.

                    From what I can see on realoem the 32mm "deal" is simply a cover and underneath are the 4 torx bolts that attach the damper to the crank.

                    Is this accurate?

                    I thought for a while it was a single 32mm bolt vs. 4 smaller torx that attached the damper to the crank but IF that was the case that would be two different dampers and two different cranks.

                    Did BMW decide to put a cover over the 4 bolts on later vehicles to protect them or something of the like?

                    Click image for larger version

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                    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                    Instagram

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                      What’s the best technique for cutting out the space for the clutch pedal?

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                        Originally posted by DoubleSidedTape View Post
                        What’s the best technique for cutting out the space for the clutch pedal?
                        Dremel

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                          Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                          When you need to turn the crank by hand some vehicles have the four torx bolts requiring the use of a special tool while other cars (like mine 04') have a 32mm deal you can put a socket on.

                          From what I can see on realoem the 32mm "deal" is simply a cover and underneath are the 4 torx bolts that attach the damper to the crank.

                          Is this accurate?

                          I thought for a while it was a single 32mm bolt vs. 4 smaller torx that attached the damper to the crank but IF that was the case that would be two different dampers and two different cranks.

                          Did BMW decide to put a cover over the 4 bolts on later vehicles to protect them or something of the like?
                          Yeah just a cover. Crank and other parts are the same.

                          Mine (04/02) also has the cover and realoem says it's been on cars since 01/01. Maybe the ones that don't have it just had it removed at some point (i.e. whoever was working on it didn't put it back on).
                          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                          Comment


                            Thanks for the help. Ordered the part from the dealer for around $4 (Amazon was $11 with shipping, go figure).

                            It definitely was a pain getting the broken screw shank out of the hole in the footwell.

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                            Had to use a combination of these tools at different steps:

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                            Started with the corn holder. Tried to stab a corner of the remaining screw shank at a 45 degree angle and push it in a circular motion. But that didn't go too far. I was able to get, maybe, 1 or 2 turns out of it.

                            After that, I used the screwdriver. Its tip was very small and thin, so I was able to jam it in between the screw shank and the screw hole's wall and wiggle it back and forth. With that I was able to make an indentation enough for the needle nose pliers to get in. Repeated on the opposite side to get another opening.

                            Finally, I was able to grip the screw shank with the needle nose pliers and unscrew the broken piece. It looked absolutely butchered with all the poking and pulling. But, at least, I had it out.

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                            Was also thankful that I didn't have to buy these easyout screw extractors, since I didn't feel like drilling in cramped spaces.
                            2004 Mystic Blue M3 | 6-speed | Coupe
                            Karbonius CSL-style airbox | OEM CSL snorkel & flap | Schrick 280 / 272 cams with followers | CSL inconel exhaust valves
                            SuperSprint 63.5mm stepped headers, section-1 with sport cats, and resonated twin-pipe section-2
                            ITG CSL Airbox Airfilter| Karbonius E46 microfilter cover
                            Karbonius M3 E46 CSL trunklid | Ohlin's BMS MI30 coilovers

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                              Dumb question for sure… so I am fixing a bunch of old non working things on a new M3 I got. I decided with this head unit from Eonon and the install went very normal. Tested it out before putting it all back and everything worked great. Did an SMG CSL tune as well and decide to go for a drive tonight, after 5 minutes the head units shuts off completely. After 10-15 seconds tried to reboot but shuts off before loading completely. And then after another 10-15 seconds tries to boot up again.. no success.

                              Is it more likely a head unit or connection somewhere?

                              Something to point out, I first bought another head unit but didn’t like it and the same thing happened. So yes I am assuming it’s a connection but I’m confused why it works great in the garage and for a few minutes before cutting out.

                              Any help is appreciated! Thanks


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                                I need to do my vanos on the car I just bought, all kinds of codes. I know there is a price difference between the Beisan and the Dr Vanos rebuilt unit, but what is the difference in what they come with and what’s the benefit of either? I plan on keeping the car for a while so want to do what’s right and the best for the cars longevity. Also, what else will I need to get for this job?

                                Thanks for the help!


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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