Dumb question: if structural foam injection was previously done many years ago for the rear subframe, is it still possible to do any further reinforcement with any of the current solutions?
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Just no welding.
So you can do rivet style (rear and front points) or a GTR style brace or 6 point.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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"eldor" lol try some lord of the rings magic spell and maybe they'll start working again.
Try reseating them? Misfire can be other issues though, plugs, knock sensors.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Originally posted by Cubieman View PostWhat would be a good type of grease to use for seat rails? Don't want any lingering smell etc.
I am in the process of cleaning up some old rusty seat rails and used a lot of brake clean trying to remove as much of the factory grease as possible as it was full of gritty debris.
Also, bonus points for application techniques as you can't get the center sections packed with grease very easily.
TRUE GLIDE Multipurpose Synthetic Grease New improved synthetic, heavy-duty multipurpose lubricant with PTFE that provides long life protection against friction, wear, rust and corrosion. Compatible with most rubber, plastics and electrical connectors. Will not run, drip, evaporate or form gummy depo- sits. Will not melt or separate. It is an excellent dielectric grease and operates over a temperature range from -42 to 232°C (-45 to 450°F). NSF registered for incidental food contact. NLGI grade 2. Excellent water resistance and rust inhibiting properties. Features: Compatible with most other greases Outlasts conventional greases 3 to 4 times Dielectric Will not drip, run or evaporate Excellent water and rust resistance NSF registered (H1), #155304 50 State Compliant No Volatile Silicone Benefits: Use on and near electrical contacts Use in food processing areas Use in Body Shops Uses: Plain, anti-friction, ball, roller, wheel bearings Cams, slides, valves, conveyors, chains Food processor equipment Hubs, axles, chassis, shocks, springs Seat regulators and tracks Trailer and buddy bearings Dielectric applications, battery protector Campers, RV’s, trailers, bicycles Lawn mowers, garage doors, snow blowers Garden and farm equipment
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Originally posted by zzyzx85 View PostLeft for work this morning and the TPMS, Brake, and DSC light came on while I was driving slowly through the parking lot. A quick search says it's might be the steering angle sensor acting up? I just got to work and haven't checked to see if it's still there.
edit: went back to the car, fired it up, and no more lights. it was rainy this morning so maybe the belt slipped?
Mike02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
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Is there a way to remove the positive battery terminal on the passenger side in engine bay? Trying to install my strut bar without dropping the suspension but the terminal is in the way.
"your BMW has how many miles!?"
2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
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Originally posted by zzyzx85 View PostIs there a way to remove the positive battery terminal on the passenger side in engine bay? Trying to install my strut bar without dropping the suspension but the terminal is in the way.
2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
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Originally posted by zzyzx85 View PostIs there a way to remove the positive battery terminal on the passenger side in engine bay? Trying to install my strut bar without dropping the suspension but the terminal is in the way.
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Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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Here’s a dumb question, how do I reset an air bag light? Bought the car with drivers side door airbag light on. Car was in an accident at some point so I assume from that, however replaced the air bag but can’t seem to figure it out.
Took it to a bmw shop and they tried but it came right back. Could it be something else?
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Originally posted by Liverpoolreds8 View PostHere’s a dumb question, how do I reset an air bag light? Bought the car with drivers side door airbag light on. Car was in an accident at some point so I assume from that, however replaced the air bag but can’t seem to figure it out.
Took it to a bmw shop and they tried but it came right back. Could it be something else?
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However, if your came back there is likely a fault with the system. One common issue is a broken retainer for the airbag connectors. There are little fingers on the clip that when seated actually push the contacts together in the connector. If one is broken, there will not actually be a completed circuit and the system will flag it. If yours had a replaced airbag that would track. Person who replaced it might have damaged the retainer. 20 year old plastic can break really easy.
Previous owner of mine did a window regulator and must have broken a clip in the process. I got a few from a junkyard e46 to replace it and have a spare or two.
To confirm, disconnect battery, pull the door panel off and check the connector. Hard to describe how to remove them so google is a must here. Sorry.Last edited by Lee_Enfield; 01-19-2023, 01:04 PM.
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Originally posted by Lee_Enfield View Post
You need specific software to clear them. Inpa for example. There are a few sources for the download around the forums.
However, if your came back there is likely a fault with the system. One common issue is a broken retainer for the airbag connectors. There are little fingers on the clip that when seated actually push the contacts together in the connector. If one is broken, there will not actually be a completed circuit and the system will flag it. If yours had a replaced airbag that would track. Person who replaced it might have damaged the retainer. 20 year old plastic can break really easy.
Previous owner of mine did a window regulator and must have broken a clip in the process. I got a few from a junkyard e46 to replace it and have a spare or two.
To confirm, disconnect battery, pull the door panel off and check the connector. Hard to describe how to remove them so google is a must here. Sorry.
If that’s the one that would trigger it then it must be that because I noticed it was broken but it seemed to clip in just fine
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Originally posted by Liverpoolreds8 View Post
You’re talking about the actual connection to the airbag correct? It’s a small black connector that sort of slides in at 90 degrees if I remember.
If that’s the one that would trigger it then it must be that because I noticed it was broken but it seemed to clip in just fine
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Check out this thread for pics.
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...#post-18711443
Last edited by Lee_Enfield; 01-19-2023, 05:45 PM.
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