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    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    How many times have you guys re-used your driveshaft>diff. / axle>diff. bolts?

    As we know the HW is extremely expensive, the axle bolts are $16 a piece ×12.

    These are not torque to yield are they?
    I plan on re-using mine for a 3rd time (under my ownership) and just using some blue loctite.
    There are silver ones (33217571990) and black ones (33211227664). Both are M10X46. The silver ones hold the DS to the input flange on the diff. The black ones hold the axle to the diff output flanges (L/R).

    I have heard and according to Bentley: The black ones do not need to be replaced every time. The silver ones are TTY and do.

    Click image for larger version

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    However according to this thread, replace them:
    According to TIS when removing the rear axle from the diff you need to replace the 6 E-12 bolts. These bolts are like $16 each. Clearly these are a critical bolt, however do people really replace them each time they remove the axle from the diff?


    I replaced mine (black ones / 33211227664) the last time I touched the rear axle, but have run them more than once previously.
    Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

    Comment


      Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

      Where are you sourcing this?
      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

      Yeah, I couldn't find a retailer either, definitely the right stuff.
      May have to find an alternate product, might just shoot it with some lithium lubricant as there's not really a good way to pack grease into the tracks and they don't come apart.
      I dug in a little more this morning:
      Within North America, orders are placed directly with Nye’s Customer Service Representatives. If you would like to place an order, please call +1.508.996.6721 or email orders@nyelubricants.com.


      Small Volume Orders
      Orders not meeting the Minimum Billing Policy of $750 and relevant case quantities should be placed through Nye’s authorized North American small volume distributor, TAI Lubricants, Inc., at +1.302.326.0200 or visit www.tai-lubricants.com.
      ...which brought me here:
      Next Generation Services offers innovative solutions in the lubrication industry with premium Nye Lubricants. Enhance performance with our expertise. Visit now!


      ...but the Rheotemp 662 isn't listed. I'll send them an email.

      sales@TAI-Lubricants.com

      Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

      Comment


        Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

        I know, that will be where I buy when I buy of course, but really wondering how necessary it is to replace these every single time per TIS.
        As another data point I’ve reused my black driveshaft and axle bolts easily 4 or 5 times and had no issues. Might not be best practice but I never had a problem.

        On the other side of the driveshaft you need to replace the nuts for all bolts attaching to the guibo every time.
        2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

        Comment


          TIS states that those black torx bolts for the axles are 10.9 grade. My guess is BMW recommend replacing due to the high torque value on those bolts and it being an important fastener (loss of drive to one axle can be a safety issue). That being said, I asked a BMW independent shop and they reuse them.

          Comment


            Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
            ...but the Rheotemp 662 isn't listed. I'll send them an email.

            sales@TAI-Lubricants.com
            I emailed them yesterday, haven't heard back. But I did find this:



            • Sil-Glyde Lubricating Compound A longer-lasting, high film strength protective lubricant for all surfaces
            • Sil-Glyde will not melt, freeze, gum, or run off like silicone oils
            • Performs from -20°F to 400°F (-28°C to 204°C)
            • Use on rubber, metal, wood, glass, and plastic. Harmless to rubber and car finishes
            • Suggested applications include trunk seals, rubber bumpers, speedometer cables, brake parts, window channels, hood strips and pads, rubber gaskets, and belts.
            ​The cold operating temp and lack of run off is what caught my eye.

            Plenty of people in other forums are suggesting white lithium grease.
            Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

            Comment


              Just had the manual conversion done.

              A quick question about the shifter "feel".

              Is the 5-6 gear gate/detent significantly weaker than 1-2 gear gate/detent?

              Comment


                Heard back on Rheotemp:


                Hi Casa,

                The Rheotemp 600 is only available by the case. Here are the quantities:

                case of 72 x 50-gram tubes
                case of 12 x 400-gram fiber cartridges
                case of 6 x kilo jars

                Let me know if are able to use these quantities. If so, I can forward a quote.

                Thanks again.​
                Unless there are 72 of us that want to do a group buy on seat lube... this is a non starter.
                Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                Comment


                  Originally posted by Sprp85 View Post
                  Just had the manual conversion done.

                  A quick question about the shifter "feel".

                  Is the 5-6 gear gate/detent significantly weaker than 1-2 gear gate/detent?
                  Not really.
                  Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Sprp85 View Post
                    Just had the manual conversion done.

                    A quick question about the shifter "feel".

                    Is the 5-6 gear gate/detent significantly weaker than 1-2 gear gate/detent?
                    1-2 should have weak resistance. 5-6 should have a bit more resistance. That’s how it is with both of my cars.
                    Silver Track to Street Car Journal
                    Interlagos Blue Street Car Journal

                    Comment


                      Is the hinge on the rear quarter glass have its own part number, or is it part of the rear glass? I'm looking at possibly just attaching it to a poly window.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Cronenberged View Post
                        Is the hinge on the rear quarter glass have its own part number, or is it part of the rear glass? I'm looking at possibly just attaching it to a poly window.
                        It's just part of the glass. Not the best vid but you'll get the idea:

                        Instagram: SeanS54How to remove your rear quarter windows on your BMW E46 coupe.Streamlight 75458 Stinger DS LED Flashlight https://amzn.to/2p5hfmxAdenna Nit...


                        Also, be careful not to drop the 10mm nuts down into the B-pillar. Fishing them out just becomes a headache.
                        Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                        Comment


                          OK, I picked up a brand new steering wheel from a guy who bought it a few years ago for a build that never happened. Got a pretty sweet deal. I got it mounted up no problem but when seating the airbag, its seems to be canted to the right (passenger side). It does appear to be fully engaged in the springs/latches in the wheel but just wants to sit crooked. Any fix to this?

                          The new wheel looks pretty good as well by the way. Amazing how worn they get.

                          Comment


                            There is a bracket that is likely bent and that causes this. There was a thread a while ago talking about this very issue.

                            Hey guys, having a weird issue after swapping in a re-wrapped steering wheel. The airbag is sitting a little low and leaning out on the top, is there some trick to lining this all up? I attached everything as it was on my stock wheel coming out, and clipped it back into the plate that holds the airbag as best as I could tell


                            Originally posted by Lee_Enfield View Post
                            OK, I picked up a brand new steering wheel from a guy who bought it a few years ago for a build that never happened. Got a pretty sweet deal. I got it mounted up no problem but when seating the airbag, its seems to be canted to the right (passenger side). It does appear to be fully engaged in the springs/latches in the wheel but just wants to sit crooked. Any fix to this?

                            The new wheel looks pretty good as well by the way. Amazing how worn they get.
                            Last edited by toy4to; 01-08-2023, 02:04 PM.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by toy4to View Post
                              There is a bracket that is likely bent and that causes this. There was a thread a while ago talking about this very issue.

                              Hey guys, having a weird issue after swapping in a re-wrapped steering wheel. The airbag is sitting a little low and leaning out on the top, is there some trick to lining this all up? I attached everything as it was on my stock wheel coming out, and clipped it back into the plate that holds the airbag as best as I could tell


                              Yep, I took the plate out and tweaked it a bit and centered it right up. Thanks.

                              Comment


                                Left for work this morning and the TPMS, Brake, and DSC light came on while I was driving slowly through the parking lot. A quick search says it's might be the steering angle sensor acting up? I just got to work and haven't checked to see if it's still there.

                                edit: went back to the car, fired it up, and no more lights. it was rainy this morning so maybe the belt slipped?
                                Last edited by zzyzx85; 01-09-2023, 07:19 AM.
                                "your BMW has how many miles!?"

                                2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
                                2007 GX470

                                build/journal
                                ig: @zzyzx85

                                Comment

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