Originally posted by Cubieman
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My bet is on the rear O2 sensors just being bad. 72k miles is well beyond their lifetime IMO. Even if that isn't the problem I would consider replacing them preventively.2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 280/272 Schrick Cams+P54 Followers | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 336/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | VAC Exhaust Hub | WPC Rod Bearings
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It's not the -767 part no. 4 all around?Originally posted by duracellttu View PostThere are two different sets of c-clip/body nuts on the front support plate (3 each), that connect the under carriage diaper and other trim. One set is for short 10mm head screws and their other for 8mm screws. Anybody have the part numbers for each of these nuts? Mines are all stripped out and I can't find the PN. The initial parts I bought from FCP are incorrect. TIA!

2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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Unfortunately not. That was one of the part numbers I ordered from referencing the same diagram and it wasn't correct.Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
It's not the -767 part no. 4 all around?
2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 280/272 Schrick Cams+P54 Followers | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 336/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | VAC Exhaust Hub | WPC Rod Bearings
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I'm open to that solution as well. Be sure to report back if you find some that are compatible!Originally posted by jayjaya29 View PostI'm looking for those c-clip nuts as well but I dont think they have their own part number. I'm probably just going to replace them with a generic version from the autoparts store.2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 280/272 Schrick Cams+P54 Followers | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 336/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | VAC Exhaust Hub | WPC Rod Bearings
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I'm going to start working on some interior projects tomorrow, including re-upholstering my headliner. I have the fabric from veteran, and the spray adhesive they recommended me.
What's the easiest method to get off old foam and crud left from the old fabric? I know the surface needs to be clean in order for the adhesive to stick. Are there any specific things I need to do aside from make sure as much of the old foam is cleaned off as possible?
Is there a good comprehensive DIY for this job? There must be...
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Handheld brass brushes (HF calls them "detail" brushes) and drill brushes will make scraping the old foam/glue off the headliner pretty easy. Got to be careful with the drill, though. If you use too much force the drill will want to spin out of your hand. Way too much force could damage your headliner, I guess.Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
What's the easiest method to get off old foam and crud left from the old fabric? I know the surface needs to be clean in order for the adhesive to stick. Are there any specific things I need to do aside from make sure as much of the old foam is cleaned off as possible?
Is there a good comprehensive DIY for this job? There must be...
As far as DIY's go, I got a lot out of "The Lucky Needle" on YouTube. They have a playlist with detailed steps on how to reupholster an e90, but the knowledge is mostly transferrable.
You really want to take your time everywhere, but especially the front. It's crucial to press every square mm of the fabric on to the headliner, otherwise you'll get a sag. Ask me how I know.
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duracellttu Cubieman jayjaya29
I don't know what the ones on your car look like, but based on the diagram, this may be it? Don't quote me on it. BMW seem to use this part on a ton of different models.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/07129904150/ (this one says its for 8mm and 9mm, Body nut used to attach underbody shields to the car.)
or
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/07129904220/
If you search "BMW body nut" on Turner there are a ton of different options. Maybe pull the one from your car and visually compare what you see on screen?Last edited by Avedis; 08-11-2023, 10:26 AM.
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Does the dashboard lower ash tray cover spring open when pressed in, just like the sunglass holder cover above it? Just confirming mine is broken and they're not actually this way when working right. Mine has to be pressed at the top to rotate it open.🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
Build thread: link
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Here is my dumb question.
(FYI - ‘05 M3 has AA headers and Hassan’s tune with a CSL box on MAP sensor)
I live in CT, having trouble passing emissions. We’re allowed to have 1 OBD monitor be “not ready”… currently I have 2 : the Secondary Air Pump (SAP) and Oxygen Sensors
I thought the tune would set the SAP as “not available” but keeps reading “not ready”, thus fails. Does it matter that the actual unit/hardware is still installed or am I missing something?
OR does anyone know of a SAP simulator I could buy which makes it read as “ready”?
ThanksLast edited by Advorsor; 08-13-2023, 08:04 AM.
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yes, you should be able to push slightly down on the bottom of it (where the silver accent piece is) and it will slowly rise open.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostDoes the dashboard lower ash tray cover spring open when pressed in, just like the sunglass holder cover above it? Just confirming mine is broken and they're not actually this way when working right. Mine has to be pressed at the top to rotate it open.
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I had an issue with this for CA smog. I turned off the SAP via Martyn's tool and the monitor wasn't listed as ready. If you still have SAP connected, I would maybe just use Martyn's tool to turn it back on.Originally posted by Advorsor View PostHere is my dumb question.
(FYI - ‘05 M3 has AA headers and Hassan’s tune with a CSL box on MAP sensor)
I live in CT, having trouble passing emissions. We’re allowed to have 1 OBD monitor be “not ready”… currently I have 2 : the Secondary Air Pump (SAP) and Oxygen Sensors
I thought the tune would set the SAP as “not available” but keeps reading “not ready”, thus fails. Does it matter that the actual unit/hardware is still installed or am I missing something?
OR does anyone know of a SAP simulator I could buy which makes it read as “ready”?
Thanks
I don't have any info on a simulator.
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Car started making a whining sound when turning steering wheel when starting up or pulling into a parking spot (very low speed). May be a pump complaining. Can't tell for sure. Any thoughts on what it could be?2004 Mystic Blue M3 | 6-speed | Coupe
Karbonius CSL-style airbox | OEM CSL snorkel & flap | Schrick 280 / 272 cams with followers | CSL inconel exhaust valves
SuperSprint 63.5mm stepped headers, section-1 with sport cats, and resonated twin-pipe section-2
ITG CSL Airbox Airfilter| Karbonius E46 microfilter cover
Karbonius M3 E46 CSL trunklid | Ohlin's BMS MI30 coilovers
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