Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Avedis]

Thanks, yea they would just not quite fit, then you pound on the panel a bit and they break.

If you haven’t already, give these a try. The plastic seems to be a little bit thicker/stronger than the older style. They also include a foam ring which helps with rattling and improved sealing. I covered this a bit in my build thread if you’re interested.

51418224768

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-9674-51418224768-genuine-bmw-part/

[jayjaya29]

Does anyone have a PN for the ITB adjustment screw covers? Realoem doesn't show them. Aftermarket bodge solutions also acceptable.

[Tbonem3]

51248391066

This is the little rubber cap for the trunk hinges. Maybe it would work? I don't know the size difference.

[Nate047]

Was chatting with a guy about wheel fitment, he said his wheels touched the suspension only under load while curbing. That struck me as odd and he said “front wheel hubs do have flexibility in them, right now the clearance is so close that when the wheel hub flexes a millimeter or two it touches” and I was just curious if that sounds right to you guys or not. My assumption has always been that all of that stuff moves in relation to itself and it shouldn’t have flex or dynamic changes relating to how close the wheel is to the suspension.

[PSUEng]

Was chatting with a guy about wheel fitment, he said his wheels touched the suspension only under load while curbing. That struck me as odd and he said “front wheel hubs do have flexibility in them, right now the clearance is so close that when the wheel hub flexes a millimeter or two it touches” and I was just curious if that sounds right to you guys or not. My assumption has always been that all of that stuff moves in relation to itself and it shouldn’t have flex or dynamic changes relating to how close the wheel is to the suspension.

Hmmm. How would a wheel hub "flex"? The assembly moves in XYZ based on what is allowing it to move (ball joints, linkages, etc.). What is "flexing" I'd like to better understand. Unless something is loose, or damaged, or out of tolerance, I can't imagine what that means. In other words, I agree with your conclusion.

[jayjaya29]

There is flex in wheel bearings, uprights, etc but it wont move that much. I run a business card's clearance between front spring perch and tire, and there are never any marks on my tires (although the paint has rubbed off the perch and spring itself, so there is some movement).

[Nate047]

Yea that's what I mean, there would be no real noticeable flex in this particular example.

[jayjaya29]

I hate to even make a post like this, but is there a generic door panel clip that actually holds properly and long term? I bought some on Amazon and I swear I have broken more than have held, trying to put my interior back together.

https://angry-ass.com/product-organizer/p/door-panel-pins-and-isolation-pads

[PSUEng]

I just had my entire front suspension refreshed and am wondering, do used lower control arms (with torn boots) have any value or should I just scrap them (I hate just throw stuff out, maybe someone can use them?)? I also have original FCABS and I'm torn between having bushings pressed in and keep them back as spares, or sell/scrap those too as entire replacements are seemingly (at least for now) available (and I completely replaced them during the refresh).

[CrisSilberGrau]

Before I post in the main forum I have two issues.

1. Yellow oil light whenever the car is on an incline with the nose/front at the lowest point. Inclines are not severe, think driveway. There oil sweat at the bottom of the vanos line, I think also around the vanos pressure accumulator. Is this still an oil level sensor issue? Since I have not touched it I assume its original to the car @159k miles now.

2. I've notice a hesitation around 3k rpm. Either when keeping steady throttle application on the hwy in 6th (any gear really) then applying throttle gently theres a judder. In the past it has resulted in the EML light going on and limp mode condition. It would clear itself after a prolonged stop start. I have since found the idle control line hose bung to the Turner airbox was detached, letting in air past the CSL air filter. I have since fixed this. I can still sense a slight hesitation/judder at times. I have not run codes on the dme. Is this a symptom of fueling ie. injectors (OEM rebuilt in 2023), or the fuel pump?

[Slideways]

Before I post in the main forum I have two issues.

1. Yellow oil light whenever the car is on an incline with the nose/front at the lowest point. Inclines are not severe, think driveway. There oil sweat at the bottom of the vanos line, I think also around the vanos pressure accumulator. Is this still an oil level sensor issue? Since I have not touched it I assume its original to the car @159k miles now.

2. I've notice a hesitation around 3k rpm. Either when keeping steady throttle application on the hwy in 6th (any gear really) then applying throttle gently theres a judder. In the past it has resulted in the EML light going on and limp mode condition. It would clear itself after a prolonged stop start. I have since found the idle control line hose bung to the Turner airbox was detached, letting in air past the CSL air filter. I have since fixed this. I can still sense a slight hesitation/judder at times. I have not run codes on the dme. Is this a symptom of fueling ie. injectors (OEM rebuilt in 2023), or the fuel pump?

1. CSL software seems to be more sensitive to oil level. When the oil is up to temp, it usually wants the level at 1/2 from max to max. If it's at 1/4 to a 1/2, it might throw the yellow oil light on slopes. The sensor is not bad until a code pops up for the oil level sensor malfunction or you will see the oil temp gauge fall to cold. It will not trigger a CEL, so you have to scan for this.

2. Check the DME for codes and go from there. At that mileage, if you have a slightly blown headgasket, it might not throw a misfire code and the car can drive fine. You want to do a compression test with ALL the spark plugs out. If it passes a compression test, then check the fuel pump as that usually does not throw a code when it is on its way out.

[heinzboehmer]

1. CSL software seems to be more sensitive to oil level. When the oil is up to temp, it usually wants the level at 1/2 from max to max. If it's at 1/4 to a 1/2, it might throw the yellow oil light on slopes. The sensor is not bad until a code pops up for the oil level sensor malfunction or you will see the oil temp gauge fall to cold. It will not trigger a CEL, so you have to scan for this.

It's not exactly that it's more sensitive. On the CSL, both the physical dipstick and the DME are expecting more oil in the pan. Looks like 4mm higher oil level on the sensor based on my notes.

Edit: Found the thread with pics of the dipstick difference: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...ator#post97267