Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[Darbshaw]

Does anyone know what these are for? I was running through the wiring harness last night and came across these.

They look like they just connect to other modules rather than back to the fuse box. Sit along the pass side of the trans tunnel (interior)

04 SMG Coupe


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[heinzboehmer]

Looks like X1019, no?


If so, it's just a distribution block for the nightime interior lights. LCM drives it high when headlight are on and all modules connected to it use it as a signal to turn on ambient lighting.

[Darbshaw]

Looks like X1019, no?


If so, it's just a distribution block for the nightime interior lights. LCM drives it high when headlight are on and all modules connected to it use it as a signal to turn on ambient lighting.

That is exactly it. Actually had a question for the other one next to it as well.

Thank you! Where'd you find this info at, need to expand my library of resources.

Assuming this is just a LCM accessory piece then I should be good stripping it out? Currently combing through my wiring harness for the track car.


Edit: Logged into Tis and started looking up the wiring diagrams. X218 seems it may be a little more complicated than just cutting and thinning wires. Most likely will just end up relocating this

[heinzboehmer]

Thank you! Where'd you find this info at, need to expand my library of resources.

Edit: Logged into Tis and started looking up the wiring diagrams.

Yep! Info came straight from TIS.

Assuming this is just a LCM accessory piece then I should be good stripping it out? Currently combing through my wiring harness for the track car.

If you don't care about having backlit buttons at night or anything like that, then yep you should be good to just rip out the distribution block and remove all the wires that go from it to the different modules. X1019 wiring diagram in TIS can tell you which modules you need to remove the wires from.

X218 seems it may be a little more complicated than just cutting and thinning wires. Most likely will just end up relocating this

Yeah X218 will require a bit more work. That's a ground post, so you should only remove any ground wires that are for modules that are no longer present. I don't remember all the details from that area, but I think X218 isn't grounding to the chassis and instead just acting as a ground distribution center. There should be another ground post nearby that is both connected to X218 and the chassis, but you should double check as I might be misremembering.

Anyway, point is that if X218 isn't directly connected to the chassis then you should be good to relocate it

[Darbshaw]

Yep! Info came straight from TIS.



If you don't care about having backlit buttons at night or anything like that, then yep you should be good to just rip out the distribution block and remove all the wires that go from it to the different modules. X1019 wiring diagram in TIS can tell you which modules you need to remove the wires from.



Yeah X218 will require a bit more work. That's a ground post, so you should only remove any ground wires that are for modules that are no longer present. I don't remember all the details from that area, but I think X218 isn't grounding to the chassis and instead just acting as a ground distribution center. There should be another ground post nearby that is both connected to X218 and the chassis, but you should double check as I might be misremembering.

Anyway, point is that if X218 isn't directly connected to the chassis then you should be good to relocate it

You're spot on again. I was digging into X218 and saw it was just an extension. So I can Atleast get that part a little cleaner/less rats nest.


I've been working from the rear froward and as I've gotten more to the front I've noticed the snip and pray method won't work well anymore 😂


Ty for all the help!

[heinzboehmer]

Ha, yeah the body harness gets way more condensed and rats nest-y the closer you get to the dash. Kind of a pain to work with it in that area.

No problem! Glad I could help

[PSUEng]

What is the purpose of this tool? BMW VANOS Switch Adapter Lead - Genuine BMW 83300491148...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-adapter-lead-83300491148#fitment

[bagger]

What is the purpose of this tool? BMW VANOS Switch Adapter Lead - Genuine BMW 83300491148...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-adapter-lead-83300491148#fitment

Hah! I too saw that in the clearance email a bit ago and wondered the same thing. Subscribing.

[heinzboehmer]

Lets you actuate the VANOS solenoids so that you can extend/retract the pistons with compressed air. It's featured in the timing procedure on TIS.

The one in the FCP link looks a little different to the one in TIS. They probably just updated the design over the years.



Edit: Actually, I think I'm wrong. The tool I'm referencing is another special tool (11 6 050). This one (12 6 412) looks like it just provides power to 11 6 050. See here: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...anos-tool-kit/

[fourmula1]

Looking for a rear view camera and display for my race car. There are so many cheepo units on amazon. Want one with decent quality image and no gps or “smart” functions. Any one have a recommendation?
Thanks

[ugaexploder]

Looking for a rear view camera and display for my race car. There are so many cheepo units on amazon. Want one with decent quality image and no gps or “smart” functions. Any one have a recommendation?
Thanks

I'd say if you are looking for a stand alone rear view camera that uses a component cable with a trigger wire, then our options are limited unfortunately. Even the well known audio brands such as Pioneer and Alpine have overpriced rear view cameras sold via Crutchfield with low resolution. Comparing all the different RVC's, I noticed the easiest comparison is using TV lines (720 x 480 = 480 lines). I found that Sony makes a CCD sensor that is capable of 1000 tv lines...unfortunately, you really are still limited to Chinese suppliers here.

This seller on ebay claims that this one is 1000 lines.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184128663657?var=691840955609

I know you mention that you don't want the GPS or smart functions, but if you decided to go for a dashcam type solution, I think Vantrue may be the best route.

https://www.vantrue.com/products/nexus-5

[fourmula1]

I'd say if you are looking for a stand alone rear view camera that uses a component cable with a trigger wire, then our options are limited unfortunately. Even the well known audio brands such as Pioneer and Alpine have overpriced rear view cameras sold via Crutchfield with low resolution. Comparing all the different RVC's, I noticed the easiest comparison is using TV lines (720 x 480 = 480 lines). I found that Sony makes a CCD sensor that is capable of 1000 tv lines...unfortunately, you really are still limited to Chinese suppliers here.

This seller on ebay claims that this one is 1000 lines.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184128663657?var=691840955609

I know you mention that you don't want the GPS or smart functions, but if you decided to go for a dashcam type solution, I think Vantrue may be the best route.

https://www.vantrue.com/products/nexus-5

Thanks. At the moment looking at this unit. If it actually works it would be an ok setup.

https://www.amazon.com/WOLFBOX-G890-Channel-Hardwire-Detection/dp/B0C133KV7N

[ugaexploder]

Thanks. At the moment looking at this unit. If it actually works it would be an ok setup.
https://www.amazon.com/WOLFBOX-G890-.../dp/B0C133KV7N

I’ve heard good things about wolfbox and actually want to try it too. Was thinking the way it goes over the existing mirror might look weird. Let us know of you end up going in this direction!

[Darbshaw]

Does anyone know what module I need to select in NCS Expert/Dummy to decode the windshield washer fluid light?

It's no longer needed and would ideally just like to decode it rather than grounding the wire out. I went through the modules and I didn't see anything directly relating to the washer warning.


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[eljay]

I have a question about a car sitting fir a long time.

I would like to finally start on my long maintenance list: valve adjustment, Beisan Vanos rebuild, rod bearings, suspension refresh.

The issue is that, sadly, my M3 has been sitting in a garage (heated) for 2 years now. I left minimum fuel in the tank and added fuel stabilizer, but I'm guessing its effect is long gone.

My question is: do I tackle my maintenance list and then deal with fuel when I attempt to start it sometime next spring?
OR will it be an issue and I should do something about it now? Such as trying to start it, run it idle till empty and refill some fresh fuel with stabilizer etc.?
It would be a hassle taking it out to do this now, which is why I'm hoping to hear that it will be fine and I should just press on with the tasks ahead.

Thanks!