Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[sbay]

During an engine rebuild due to rod bearing failure, can I just buy one used rod and send it or do I have to then take all the pistons and crank for balancing?

[Slideways]

During an engine rebuild due to rod bearing failure, can I just buy one used rod and send it or do I have to then take all the pistons and crank for balancing?

Balance the one used rod and piston with the five original ones.

[PSUEng]

Attempted to replace my trunk lock actuator today. Factory BMW part, and the bracket holes aren't threaded; TIS says use self tapping screws. Looking at how this part fits, I get the self tapping screw requirement. I'm thinking that the 3x T30 M6x12 bolts originally holding the actuator in can be re-used (those aren't self tapping) once I run self tappers through the bracket with the actuator in place? Sometimes I wonder how they built this car. The actuator has no physical datum to the trunk that I can see. Seems I would just set it in place, aligned it as best I can using the oversized holes in the trunk and just slam home the self tapping screws? I'm not dumb, I swear...

Original bolts: 07146985055

EDIT: Me thinks I should have ordered brand new screws as the original is in fact a thread cutting screw.

[karter16]

Suspect I know what the answer is going to be but thought I'd ask just in case anyone knows.

I'm planning on installing a 6 point topside brace (front and rear subframe/RACP points plus the RSMs). Part of this is installing through bolts from the bottom side of the subframe right through to the brace. The rear two subframe mounts are easy as they are bolts. The front two however are studs with the hex spacer in the middle of them.

Ideally I'd get these out without having to drop the subframe entirely.

Does anyone know if it's possible to loosen off the subframe bolts in the rear and nuts on the front studs enough to get a spanner in, loosen the studs and cut them either side of the hex spacer.

As I said I suspect the answer is no, but thought I'd check to see if anyone's done anything like this or knows if it's possible.


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[dl.m3]

Suspect I know what the answer is going to be but thought I'd ask just in case anyone knows.

I'm planning on installing a 6 point topside brace (front and rear subframe/RACP points plus the RSMs). Part of this is installing through bolts from the bottom side of the subframe right through to the brace. The rear two subframe mounts are easy as they are bolts. The front two however are studs with the hex spacer in the middle of them.

Ideally I'd get these out without having to drop the subframe entirely.

Does anyone know if it's possible to loosen off the subframe bolts in the rear and nuts on the front studs enough to get a spanner in, loosen the studs and cut them either side of the hex spacer.

As I said I suspect the answer is no, but thought I'd check to see if anyone's done anything like this or knows if it's possible.


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You’d need to drop the subframe about 6” to get the clearance to get those hex studs out. I went through the same thing and basically decided to drop the subframe entirely to get the most room to work with. Id recommend it, it’s not difficult to drop the subframe so worth it imo.

[karter16]

You'd need to drop the subframe about 6” to get the clearance to get those hex studs out. I went through the same thing and basically decided to drop the subframe entirely to get the most room to work with. Id recommend it, it's not difficult to drop the subframe so worth it imo.

To get the hex studs out in one piece yes, you'd need to completely drop the subframe, I'm talking about dropping it just enough to get a hack saw blade in to cut the stud either side of the hex and slide the pieces out


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[Calb]

I’m not gettin older! Just dumber. How do you post a pic so it doesn’t show sideways? I’ve done it a few times but cannot remember how.

[Tbonem3]

I’m not gettin older! Just dumber. How do you post a pic so it doesn’t show sideways? I’ve done it a few times but cannot remember how.

My method is to modify the pic on my phone first. Either rotate it or crop it a tiny bit. Then save, and it'll present correctly.

[SUPREM3///]

Anyone able to identify brand on this ? I’m not seeing any stampings on it.

[Cronenberged]

Anyone able to identify brand on this ? I’m not seeing any stampings on it.

Looks to be custom. Couldn't even match it to anything on the definitive exhaust guide, listed below. Definitely a copy or an attempt to be similar to the other popular ones.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/e46-m3-definitive-exhaust-guide.1068516/

[zzyzx85]

recommended set of feeler gauges? I suspect the set I got off amazon (Ares offset-style) are out of spec.

[SUPREM3///]

Looks to be custom. Couldn't even match it to anything on the definitive exhaust guide, listed below. Definitely a copy or an attempt to be similar to the other popular ones.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...guide.1068516/

I couldn't find a good match either and got to the same conclusion. I hate not knowing lol. At least it sounds good though, so I'll get over it.

[Ryan_R]

recommended set of feeler gauges? I suspect the set I got off amazon (Ares offset-style) are out of spec.

https://www.msi-viking.com/Mitutoyo-184-307S-Thickness-Feeler-Gage-003-to-05mm-13-Leaves-100mm-Long-Leaves

If they are for a valve adjustment I’d go with the BMW set.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-template-83300490942

[Acarv_426]

Dumb question - I removed my DMG strut bar back in February. Well the car has been sitting since and I totally forgot I had it removed, Anyway, I moved the car out of the garage as I had to make room for something and now my camber/alignment is all messed up, Such a dumb move on my part. The wheels have such super negative camber in the front now. I just had WileMotorSport align this not too long ago too.

I'm waiting on a replacement strut bar to come in and when it does I'm going to try and tackle this issue. Any advice tips on how to align this as best as possible before taking it in for another alignment? I was thinking jack the car up, adjust the camber with a level and then tighten the strut bar to hold in place. I'm running TMS Street plates, GC front sway bar and endlinks with Ohlins R&T coils if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance.

[Slideways]

Dumb question - I removed my DMG strut bar back in February. Well the car has been sitting since and I totally forgot I had it removed, Anyway, I moved the car out of the garage as I had to make room for something and now my camber/alignment is all messed up, Such a dumb move on my part. The wheels have such super negative camber in the front now. I just had WileMotorSport align this not too long ago too.

I'm waiting on a replacement strut bar to come in and when it does I'm going to try and tackle this issue. Any advice tips on how to align this as best as possible before taking it in for another alignment? I was thinking jack the car up, adjust the camber with a level and then tighten the strut bar to hold in place. I'm running TMS Street plates, GC front sway bar and endlinks with Ohlins R&T coils if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance.

If the car is on a level surface, you can use a straight edge against the face of the wheel and your phone with the Bubble Level app to get a camber measurement. Then set it back roughly where it was using the previous alignment sheet.