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    Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
    what offset would be ideal for a 18x9 wheel up front to run without spacers? have full adjustability with coils, camber plates, etc
    IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.
    "your BMW has how many miles!?"

    2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
    2007 GX470

    build/journal
    ig: @zzyzx85

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      Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post

      IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.
      thanks for the suggestion, just ordered another square set of wheels at 18x10, and thinking i might order a set of 18x9 to run them staggered and sell the other staggered set
      /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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        Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
        Do torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?

        Why I ask:
        I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.
        I would tighten just a little past the existing torque mark just to be sure.

        Comment


          Right otherwise it won't stretch. They need tension.

          Or add loctite?
          Last edited by Tbonem3; 12-31-2024, 08:16 AM.
          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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            Dumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?

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              Originally posted by BRiley View Post
              Dumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?
              This is the case for the differential since they have built in o-rings. Transmission plugs are reusable and don't have a sealing ring.

              Comment


                Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                This is the case for the differential since they have built in o-rings. Transmission plugs are reusable and don't have a sealing ring.
                No crush washer then? Thank you so much!

                Comment


                  Originally posted by BRiley View Post

                  No crush washer then? Thank you so much!
                  The ones on older cars had a crush washer, the ones you buy now have a green o-ring.
                  E46 ///M3 • 12/2002 • phönix-gelb • 6MT
                  E39 ///M5 • 12/1998 • avus-blau • 6MT
                  E60 ///M5 • 11/2006 • saphir-schwarz • 6MT

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by bmwfnatic View Post

                    The ones on older cars had a crush washer, the ones you buy now have a green o-ring.
                    If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?
                    2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                    Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                    2012 Mazda5 6MT
                    A few Volvo parts

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                      Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?
                      ‘02 TiAg/Impulse Slicktop

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
                        If they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?
                        Yes, TIS states to replace the entire plug. I have taken out the o-ring to measure it and it shouldn't be too difficult to find a bag of replacement o-rings.

                        The older style plugs, which I kept in case I want to revert back, did use a crush washer, but realOEM no longer lists a part number for the crush washer for the E46. You have to go to an older model, like the E31, where they still have it on the diagram funny enough.

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                          Originally posted by sbay View Post
                          Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?
                          WD-40 and scotchbright. Best to put rags in the cylinders to catch any the debris falling into the piston rings.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                            WD-40 and scotchbright. Best to put rags in the cylinders to catch any the debris falling into the piston rings.
                            Thank you…just to confirm, we’re talking about this scotchbrite?
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by sbay; Today, 07:10 AM.
                            ‘02 TiAg/Impulse Slicktop

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                              Originally posted by sbay View Post

                              Thank you…just to confirm, we’re talking about this scotchbrite?
                              Yeah, it will be abrasive enough to remove heavy carbon buildup, but shouldn't remove any material from the iron block. You just don't want any of the fibers or loose carbon getting between the piston and rings. If you are going to leave the block and cylinders exposed for an extended period of time, it is good to spray them with WD-40 to keep moisture out; otherwise, they can start to form surface rust.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                                Yeah, it will be abrasive enough to remove heavy carbon buildup, but shouldn't remove any material from the iron block. You just don't want any of the fibers or loose carbon getting between the piston and rings. If you are going to leave the block and cylinders exposed for an extended period of time, it is good to spray them with WD-40 to keep moisture out; otherwise, they can start to form surface rust.

                                Really good video very informative
                                ‘02 TiAg/Impulse Slicktop

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