Originally posted by ugaexploder
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Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed
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"your BMW has how many miles!?"
2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
2007 GX470
build/journal
ig: @zzyzx85
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Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.
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Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostDo torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?
Why I ask:
I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.
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Right otherwise it won't stretch. They need tension.
Or add loctite?Last edited by Tbonem3; 12-31-2024, 08:16 AM.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Originally posted by BRiley View PostDumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?
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Originally posted by bmwfnatic View Post
The ones on older cars had a crush washer, the ones you buy now have a green o-ring.2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL
2012 Mazda5 6MT
A few Volvo parts
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Originally posted by IamFODI View PostIf they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?
The older style plugs, which I kept in case I want to revert back, did use a crush washer, but realOEM no longer lists a part number for the crush washer for the E46. You have to go to an older model, like the E31, where they still have it on the diagram funny enough.
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Originally posted by sbay View Post
Thank you…just to confirm, we’re talking about this scotchbrite?
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Originally posted by Slideways View Post
Yeah, it will be abrasive enough to remove heavy carbon buildup, but shouldn't remove any material from the iron block. You just don't want any of the fibers or loose carbon getting between the piston and rings. If you are going to leave the block and cylinders exposed for an extended period of time, it is good to spray them with WD-40 to keep moisture out; otherwise, they can start to form surface rust.
‘02 TiAg/Impulse Slicktop
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