Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[heinzboehmer]

Can anyone help me with a part number for the factory brake duct to bracket hardware? Realoem has it greyed out and ive ordered almost every other piece on this page but none match my factory hardware on the drivers side. My passenger side doesnt have the factory hardware and is currently mounted with a bolt and bunch of washers i had lying around, not ideal lol.



Drivers with proper OE factory hardware


Passengers with janky hardware lol

Those are supposed to be plastic push pins, so driver's side isn't correct either: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...-plastic-rivet

[BigRussia]

In my experience you can't always trust the greyed out stuff for minor hardware like this. To get a part number go back and manually pick something like a 320i instead and then go to the same page and you'll often find the part number listed

e.g. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_3275

(Note I tried a 330Ci first and it was disabled there too)

You might want #17 cropped from your image

Ah thats a good trick for realoem! Thanks for that, it would always irk me how some things would randomly be greyed out, so this is def helpful in future

Those are supposed to be plastic push pins, so driver's side isn't correct either: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...-plastic-rivet

Well damn, i had a feeling of ‘watch the driverside hardware be wrong too’ especially as i recently found alot of jank from a previous owners sloppy repair job lol.

Awesome thanks for this, looks like Casa de Mesa nailed the right part number for the proper plastic rivets!

EDIT: Oops shouldve read through the whole thread, its actually part number 51711936929, thanks to NZ_M3!

[Casa de Mesa]

Awesome thanks for this, looks like Casa de Mesa nailed the right part number for the proper plastic rivets!

EDIT: Oops shouldve read through the whole thread, its actually part number 51711936929, thanks to NZ_M3!

Hey thanks for quoting me on this one. I just edited that other post so anyone who doesn't read all the way through like you did won't order the wrong part.

[PSUEng]

As I'm working on my brake overhaul, got to looking at replacing caliper bracket bolts. Mine are in pretty good shape, very minor corrosion, and of course nothing says they need to be replaced as matter of course. Is there any functional need to replace these otherwise? Front bolts, $15/per...so, if not needed, I'll skip. Mine are original, just thinking "while i'm in there", but that's a slippery slope.

[Shonky]

Resurrecting the 'to reuse reinforcement bolts or not' discussion. I'm pretty sure that was debated ad nauseum on the old forum and unfortunately isn't something that was recovered.

Just for clarity's sake (and to help anyone using a search string) I'm referring to BMW part number 31106772199 M10X35-10.9ZNS3 "Suspension Subframe Reinforcement Plate Bolt "

So...we all know the recommendation is to reuse them since they're angle torqued per the TIS. We also know that many folks do reuse them because...well, because it's a PITA to order 12 new bolts every time you drop the reinforcement plate. They're also not cheap ($3-4 each now) although in the grand scheme of things that's probably not the primary driver. What i'd like to know is what torque people are using if they are reusing them. I've seen recommended values for M10 bolts in the 40-55 ft-lb range, but the additional 90 degrees of torque angle has to bump that up quite a bit. Of course there's the argument that without the full clamping force you're compromising safety, etc. but let's face it...few of our M3s have stock suspensions anymore so whatever calculations BMW did around that are likely null and void anyway.

There's also the school of thought of using them for a limited # of cycles....i.e. replacing them every other time they're torqued down (which is what i try to do).

Not quite resurrecting this but whats the thoughts on using another branded M10x35mm grade 10.9 bolt? It seems unlikely the genuine part is any kind of specific material but obviously high tensile bolts can have varying tensile stresses etc.

Locally the genuine part runs about 9 AUD (6.30 USD) each. Yes there is FCP Euro but returning fairly heavy items (compared to their value) isn't really practical from OS plus the shipping rebuying each time.

I can get a zinc plated M10x35mm grade 10.9 bolt locally for around AUD 0.50 in largish quanties. 150 is 12.5 sets for about the cost of 1 set of genuine sourced locally.
e.g.
https://www.aimsindustrial.com.au/m10-x-35mm-metric-hex-bolt-class-10.9-zinc-plated

or AUD 1 / each
https://www.boltmasters.com.au/bolts...only-fmh10035z

I had another one around AUD 0.50 in quantity but can't seem to find the website right now. There would be any number of local nut/bolt suppliers that could supply something I'm sure.

Edit: I see my first examples don't include the flange on the head. So:

https://www.boltandnut.com.au/bolts/hex-flange-bolts/m10-x-1-50p-metric-coarse-plain-black-15mm-af-hex-flange-bolts-high-tensile-class-10-9-din-6921

The washer should be reusable but from memory it's captive so a replacement would need to be sourced too. Still a lot cheaper.

[Cubieman]

Will OEM sec. 1> 2 bolts work for connecting SS V1 pipes to SS dual Sec. 2 or are they too short due to possibly thicker flanges?

I see the hardware Obi suggests and I may go that route but if stock bolts are long enough may also just use it as I've got it.

[Tbonem3]

They were just long enough for me iirc. At least, I don't remember buying longer hardware when I ran v1s with dual pipe.

[K-Dawg]

You could buy both same size and next size longer in stainless for a couple dollars.

[tlow98]

Totally stock car + 282/270 schrick cams can I pass emissions?

effectively, with a stock tune will it run well and operate normally?

of course, after I pass emissions in the lovely state of California I’d strip it and out back the fun stuff, but for the sake of running ‘normally’ can it do it?

[Tbonem3]

Totally stock car + 282/270 schrick cams can I pass emissions?

effectively, with a stock tune will it run well and operate normally?

of course, after I pass emissions in the lovely state of California I’d strip it and out back the fun stuff, but for the sake of running ‘normally’ can it do it?

You need MAF. So can you run cams well enough for smog monitors to go green, on maf? Doesn't seem to matter if the tune is factory or not; to pass smog you just need certain things to be working ie sensors, no cel, green monitors.

[tlow98]

You need MAF. So can you run cams well enough for smog monitors to go green, on maf? Doesn't seem to matter if the tune is factory or not; to pass smog you just need certain things to be working ie sensors, no cel, green monitors.

Ok, so as long as I’m running a MAF-based tune I will be fine? Got it and thank you.

[Tbonem3]

Ok, so as long as I’m running a MAF-based tune I will be fine? Got it and thank you.

But I don't know if cams can be run well enough to not trigger CEL. If you're doing cams, you probably are running alpha N or MAP with an airbox

[tlow98]

But I don't know if cams can be run well enough to not trigger CEL. If you're doing cams, you probably are running alpha N or MAP with an airbox

yeah, that’s essentially the issue. Can the stock tune handle cams comfortably?

[DoubleSidedTape]

yeah, that’s essentially the issue. Can the stock tune handle cams comfortably?

You can run cams just fine with a MAF, using a tune made for the cams.

[tlow98]

You can run cams just fine with a MAF, using a tune made for the cams.

Yes, but Cali searches for non stock tunes in some cases so that’s not 100% for me in this case.

So, need to know if anyone has installed cams with no tune and how it runs.